Ooops, I think I may have waited too long to winterize my bike. The tags expired on me at the end of October and I was going to wait until after new years to get my new tags so I wouldn't have to worry about it toward the end of next year. Long story short I didn't put Staybil in it, and I haven't riden it much over the last two months. Today I went to start it and take it on a short ride as well as run some Carb cleaner and put the Staybil in it for the winter. It took forever to get it to start, then once it was up to temp it didn't want to idle with the choke off. I was able to get about a 20 mile ride in with the choke at half to get going and then flipping it off once I was at 3000RPM. It ran fine after a couple miles from the 3000-5500RPM range but anything over 6 it was VERY sluggish. Once I got back it would idle without the choke but the sluggishness is what's worring me... I'm betting I'm gonna need a Carb cleaning and adjustment. It probablly wouldn't hurt to do the plugs this spring also. It a '87 700F2, Does this sound about right to ya'll, I've never had this happen before.
My first instinct is to go put fresh premium fuel in the tank and then go try to run the piss out of it. Also there is a Lucas fuel additive you can buy from the automotive parts store - go get some of that too and run it.
If that doesnt work, well, you got some disassembly and clean out to do.
Good luck,
MD
Member 5th Gen Brotherhood
http://vfrworld.com/forums/fifth-gen...llos-mods.html
http://vfrworld.com/forums/brake-tir...ceptor-ss.html
<----------- Why Be Normal? -----
I guess I am a little confused. How long did you store it for...less than two months? Based on my experience, this "usually" is not long enough to gum up the carbs.
I would immediately drain the tank and float bowls, and while you are at it, at first try squirting some carb cleaner directly into the float bowl thru the float bowl drain screw, let it drain back out, and over again, then let it sit for overnight, then if that does not work once you do that and put a fresh tank of premium in it, you know what you will have to do, pull the carbs off and start the disassembly to clean all of the orifices. Some orifices might need a needle stuck thru (non-forcefully) them to clean them out....did on my FZR at least.
After thinking about this, I think this problem may possiblly stem from something else. When I bought the bike about 18 months ago, the guy told me that he had to run carb cleaner about every 3d tank and he also had to run it with the fuel knob on RES. The first thing I did was strip the plastic for some much needed paint and body work. In the process I found that the tank had some considerable rust in it which had also clogged the fuel ON portion of the knob. I had the tank cleaned and relined painted and replaced the fuel filter with a Mr. Gasket clear filter so I could keep an eye on things. It ran fine once it was put back together. I wonder if the short storage period of 2 months may have been enough time for rust form in the carbs.? I cleaned the tank but I never flushed the lines or Carb bowls, there could be rust left in the bowls if it could've gotten thru the filter.?
I plan to do a rinse and repeat tomorrow of the ride I took today and see if it gets better. If not, how hard is it to get to the carb bowls to pull and clean them?
Yeah, I should have mentioned, check (probably replace) your fuel filter. The rust/debris should not get thru your fuel filter to the carbs...it would have clogged the filter up first.Originally Posted by pontiacformula99
First of all, get a repair manual....it is like a bible. Don't have your exact year bike, but usually, pull the tank, and then the airbox underneath, disconnect some hoses, throttle linkage, etc, ....I am not sure if you can access the carb float bowls on these v-4's without yanking the carbs....like you could on my FZR.
Use some Seafoam in it. The stuff is great. It what I use to winterize my bikes. I also use a little every now and again during riding season just for good measure.
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp.htm
Yeah!!!! SeaFoam is GREAT!!!!!!!!
People do not care how much you know until they know how much you care!!!
Seafoam is what the Mech at my local shop told me to use. I found this out after I had already added 2oz of Staybil and a half bottle of Carb cleaner... I probablly shouldn't mix the Seafoam in with everything else. If it doesn't get better tommorrow I'll do a drain and refill with Seafoam and try again. I'll keep ya'll posted.
He said to use the WHOLE bottle. does that sound right? Seems like a'little much.
Add the whole can to a full tank of gas. It's gonna smoke a bit, but it will be fine.
If your bike's owner manual does not call for 91 or higher octane, do not waste your money. It is not "premium" fuel, it is just higher octane. It is not a better fuel, it is a different fuel. Why people insist on falling for the name game is beyond me. On an engine that is not designed for high octane fuel, adding it will actually make it run worse.
I have always run 93 octane in the VFR. I've never tried 91 or 89. I know that what fuel is best has been the cause of much debate on this forum. All I know is, the 93 has been good and if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
It's a'little chilly this morning so I'm gonna wait till lunch to go ride. I'll post how it does...
IMO, I would be sure to check/replace that fuel filter (and drain your tank & float bowls and spray with carb cleaner).....that is what I would do though. If you are concerned about rust from the tank, maybe check the fuel line to the filter as well.
The fuel filter I put on after I had the tank cleaned and re-lined has a clear body (you can see the fuel passing thru the filter). Since fixing the tank rust I have never seen even a spec of rust or dirt in the fuel filter.
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