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Thread: Fram oil filter for VFR.

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    Fram oil filter for VFR.

    Just discovered that I an purchase a Fram oil filter for my 87 700 at my local Advance Auto parts store. Hmmm...$4.65 there, or $12.99 at the stealership?

    I'll go with the Fram. FYI, it's part # PH6010A.

    Fram's catalog seems to have quite a few listed...at least for my bikes.

    Link:
    Honeywell Consumer Products Group - Product Info

    87 Honda VFR 700 F2
    02 Yamaha FZ1
    95 Suzuki DR 350

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    Senior Member tinkerinWstuff's Avatar
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    thanks for the heads up. I'll check them out for my 500

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    Senior Member volks6000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tinkerinWstuff View Post
    thanks for the heads up. I'll check them out for my 500
    +1 me also. finding a cheap but good filter is a plus.

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    Senior Member kingsley's Avatar
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    There's been some internet banter about Fram's quality. I have been using NAPA 1358 (WIX I believe -Your part number may vary ), still 1/2 price of the Honda up here. I think Purolater PureOne are rated high.

    ...I'm just sayin'
    Last edited by kingsley; 11-13-2009 at 12:24 PM.
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    Junior Member kramdua's Avatar
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    i have worked on cars all my life and fram filters are the cheap junk. if fram has a filter # cross it to a wix, hastings, etc. motors cost to much

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    Senior Member tinkerinWstuff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kramdua View Post
    i have worked on cars all my life and fram filters are the cheap junk. if fram has a filter # cross it to a wix, hastings, etc. motors cost to much
    Do you have some factual evidence to support this claim? Type of media used, manufacturing methods? I've used Fram most of my life because it's what most auto parts stores sell and I've never had a problem or known anyone else to have one. If you can support this claim with something, I'd love to hear it. I'm sure they've had a failure, you'd be hard pressed to find a product on the market that's never failed. But if Fram's failure rate is higher than a competitor, I'd like to know about it.

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    Member AndyJ's Avatar
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    I found this recently: Motorcycle Oil Filters & Air Filters

  8. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to AndyJ For This Useful Post:

    monk69 (11-13-2009), tinkerinWstuff (11-13-2009)

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    Senior Member kingsley's Avatar
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    and the dissection of the same.... Motorcycle Oil Filter Comparison
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    Member NWA_VFR700F's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kramdua View Post
    i have worked on cars all my life and fram filters are the cheap junk. if fram has a filter # cross it to a wix, hastings, etc. motors cost to much
    I race dirt track here, and MANY MANY MANY times (and luckily i've never had this happen) engines are lost to something as simple as a FRAM filter. They tend to fail ALOT and have ruined alot of my friends' engines. All of us that run WIX or other top-line filters have never had a problem. I used to ALWAYS run FRAM on anything that I had, but after I started seeing filters collapse and blow engines, I'll never run another.

    Just my 2cents worth

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    Senior Member bitterpil's Avatar
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    Better off spending $6 on a Purolator filter.

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    Senior Member tinkerinWstuff's Avatar
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    I started reading the link provided by Andy but haven't finished yet.

    A thought came to mind though; do we know who makes Honda's OEM filters?

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    so the overall consensus is that we should use the pure one filter then, right?

    "Pure One
    PL14610 $6 50*.39*2.36 92 Silicon Silicon A A This is how an oil filter should be made. The anti-drainback valve is double the thickness of any other here, and obviously seals very well. The media is the best available, and there's a lot of it. The bypass valve is made from a laser-cut piece of stainless steel, and just can't bind or jam."

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    Uber Guru CandyRedRC46's Avatar
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    and also that we should use the automobile variant - (About 3.5 inches long - fit reference 1994 Mazda MX-3, V-6 Engine) as opposed to the 2.5-3 inch motorcycle variant...

    so then this is the number one filter:

    Purolator Pure One L14620 about $6

    feel free to add input as i am not an oil engineer and this is just info that i gathered in about 15 minutes of searching...

    Oil Filter Alternatives - Honda Motorcycles

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    looks like im getting ready to trash my kn and pick up a pure one...
    i had one in the 3.5 inch mazda mx3 v6 variant...
    it fit fine, but i had also ditched my evap canister, which makes for much easier oil changes...

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    Senior Member TimRav's Avatar
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    I used to use Fram filters when I started doing my own oil changes, but never touch them now. I always get something at least mid-grade.

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    Senior Member bitterpil's Avatar
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    I use the shorter PL14612 PureOne filter. The Boch(Champion) filters are also good. Also believe it or not the WalMart Supertech filter is a good filter and they are only $2.50-3.00.

    There is an argument about using the PureOne filter. The argument is that it could have too much filter media and can produce excessive back pressure. If you are concerned, you can use the standard Purolator or the Supertech. Both have less media than the PureOne. I have considered both of these other options but have stuck with the PureOne for now.
    I use the Mobil one 4t 10w-40 full synthetic oil. I can get both at advanced auto. The motorcycle oil is usually back in storage not on the shelves.

    Others here swear by the Shell RotellaT syn. Shell has data on this oil and it shows only to have slightly higher ash content than JASO certified oil. Diesel oil additive packages very closely match the additive packages in motorcycle oils. With that available at WalMart and the Supertech filter you can get good protection for a low price. $20 give or take.

    Good luck
    Last edited by bitterpil; 11-14-2009 at 12:38 PM.

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    Senior Member tinkerinWstuff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bitterpil View Post
    There is an argument about using the PureOne filter. The argument is that it could have too much filter media and can produce excessive back pressure. If you are concerned, you can use the standard Purolator or the Supertech.
    Good call. I had an Allis Chalmers WD tractor and it was widely known that the certian filters had too much media and caused significant problems. It was a screwy system and as I recall, the bypass would open so the filter wouldn't blow but it would dump back to the reservoir and the rest of the motor would starve for oil. The evil part is, the pressure guage was between the pump and the filter housing so it would look like you had great pressure.

    Sorry, just early morning ramblings

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    Uber Guru CandyRedRC46's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bitterpil View Post
    I use the shorter PL14612 PureOne filter. The Boch filters are also good. Also believe it or not the WalMart Supertech filter is a good filter and they are only $2.50-3.00.

    There is an argument about using the PureOne filter. The argument is that it could have too much filter media and can produce excessive back pressure. If you are concerned, you can use the standard Purolator or the Supertech. Both have less media than the PureOne. I have considered both of these other options but have stuck with the PureOne for now.
    I use the Mobil one 4t 10w-40 full synthetic oil. I can get both at advanced auto. The motorcycle oil is usually back in storage not on the shelves.

    Others here swear by the Shell RotellaT syn. Shell has data on this oil and it shows only to have slightly higher ash content than JASO certified oil. Diesel oil additive packages very closely match the additive packages in motorcycle oils. With that available at WalMart and the Supertech filter you can get good protection for a low price. $20 give or take.

    Good luck
    extra filter media causing a flow restriction? do you mean that the filter media it has is too dense? extra media surface area is only going to make the filter flow better. especially after a couple thousand miles. thats the argument for using the 3.5 inch filters over the 2.5 inch ones...

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    Senior Member bitterpil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CandyRedRC46 View Post
    extra filter media causing a flow restriction? do you mean that the filter media it has is too dense? extra media surface area is only going to make the filter flow better. especially after a couple thousand miles. thats the argument for using the 3.5 inch filters over the 2.5 inch ones...
    Yes as in causing flow restriction. As in too much of a good thing. Too dense. The argument is from Purolator not me.

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    After reading all the various things, I looked at my service manual on CD for my 6th gen. It showed a bypass/ dump at the pump, and one just before the filter, and it also showed the pressure switch after the filter, so I removed the filter, installed a gauge, and tried various filters with the same viscosity oil, (Rotella T synthetic 5W-40)and waited until the temp at the filter housing was identical. They all showed between 67 and 71 psi at 6000 with oil temp about 175 and the coolant fan having cycled five times before the measurement. The only thing that's not possible to determine is whether the internal bypass had opened on any of the tested filters (Honda factory, Wal Mart long accura filter, Napa/wix, and Purolator long filter). BUT there was definitely very healthy factory spec pressure present.
    So why the Rotella 5W-40? I live at 5800 feet in the Colorado Mountains, and when it's not too snowy and icy to ride, temps below 10F are not at all unusual in the morning, and getting it to idle right after start-up with 10-40 can be a five minute "sit there and nurse it" issue.
    Thought you might find this useful in making decisions.
    One can only be young once, but can be immature forever. So far, my second childhood is going great!

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    as far as having scientific evidence on fram, no i don't. but as far as the thickness of the shell and material used yes i can. a representative from hastings filters visited our shop. he had a display of 4 oil filters. all of them were cut open around where the body meets the flange. the frams paper filter had 8 ribs where the hasting and better filters had 12 to 16. so i would say the filter inside is more important than so fancy no slip grip.

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    Senior Member tinkerinWstuff's Avatar
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    Hey Scotty!! Too bad you are that far on the western slope. If the weather looks nice Thanksgiving weekend, I might bring my '85 over that way and ride the National Monument. The inlaws live over in Palisade.

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    The one (& only!) time I got a Fram I discovered there were no threads cut into the mounting hole. If that's an indication of their quality control just imagine what the inside of the assembled filter could be like. I've had no issues/problems with the Purolator of the longer automotive style but the shorter M/C specific type is easier to fit in behind the headers. Conventional (dino) diesel oil is my choice, 15W-40, of whatever brand you favour. 5 K km change intervals, filter every 2nd change. 203K kms on the odo, '95 750.

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    what kind of oil are you using on ur 87 vfr? i need to change mine and i don't know what kind to use.

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    I use motomaster (Canadian Tire brand) 15/40 diesel oil on all my motorcycles. Never had a problem. I used to use Shell Rotella but it became a little hard to find. Any diesel brand will be fine with fairly frequent change intervals.

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    Senior Member tinkerinWstuff's Avatar
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    Why are folks using diesel oil?

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    The full synthetic "diesel oils", if you look at the ratings on the back, also have an "SM" which is currently the highest available rating for gasoline motors.
    Most motorcycles use the engine lube for the trans gears as well, and the trans gears literally mechanically "shear" the long chain polymers and cause the 10w-40 to degrade to the lowest viscosity. So that means in the summer your hot rod motor will eventually have 10-30 or 10-20, if you don't change every few thousant miles. Gear deive cams are just another place to shear polymers. The diesel oil resists this significantly longer, as do the very expensive synthetics.
    In my case, it's not unusual to see temps as low as zero, and below, although the roads are mostly too icy and snowy to ride in the high mountains, and without 5w-40, even in the early spring, it just won't start and run.

    One can only be young once, but can be immature forever. So far, my second childhood is going great!

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