tinkerinWstuff (11-15-2009)
Because I'm bored and can rarely leave stuff well enough alone, I'm considering cutting holes in my fairing. The bike is new to me this fall and the warmest weather I've ridden it in is mid to upper 70's. She seems to run pretty hot (on the factory guage which I have no idea how acurate it is and doesn't quantify with any real numbers).
So the fairing has some moch scoops on it. They are molded about .800 of an inch into the fairing. I'm considering cutting it out plus about .800 forward. I figure this will help scoop some air while moving and increase the airflow around the hot engine. I can get some edging like the fairing has around the edges to dress up the cutout and make it look factory. I figure if I used a high speed dremmel type tool or rotozip cutter, it would make a nice cut in the fiberglass.
Here is a picture as she sits and one where I drew in a representation of what I'm talking about in microsoft paint. Lemme know what you guys think.
Original equip:
Proposed Mod:
![]()
Is your fairing really fibreglass? Some of the early fairings were PVC and ABS. High speed cutting tools tend to create hot spots and some warpage or even bubbling may occur. Going through a layer (s) of paint and then whatever your fairing happens to be unless done with great precision will likely require some repainting. Getting a dead on match might be a real PITA.
I bought my vf500 avbout 4 years ago and it has always run in the 3/4 hot range unless it was freezing outside. After reading a lot of other peoples stories i've come to figure that this is normal. I put a full fairing on mine a few months back (it DID have scoops) and it did not have any effect on the engine temp. However i think your fairing would look a lot better with the scoops cut out so I would say go for it!
Great looking mod!
Here's a trick I learned working at a Corvette shop.
first: mask off where you want to cut.
second: Cut through the tape. (for some reason this gives the edge of the cut a much better finish) Use the biggest tool/bit you can for the job, this will make it easy to keep your lines straight. Have a friend spray water directly on the work in progress every couple seconds. If you're using an electric tool, I'm not sure how this will work out. I've only ever done it or seen it done using air powered die grinders.
third: If you're really good you can hit all the edges with a rotary style deburing tool. Or 320-400 grit sand paper will work too.
Last edited by JTC; 11-14-2009 at 10:10 PM.
if you think you might like the look with the opening relieved a little, go for it.
Most certianly fiberglass.
No doubt. I've anticipated that anything cut by hand will have a strong tendancy to look like shit. That's why I said I would probably use the same black edging/trim you see (it's there, trust me) in the current photos around the openings and on the trailing edge. I could try to use a razor blade type knife to cut my way thru but I don't anticipate my lines would look any better, the corners might be more difficult, and it would take an eternity.High speed cutting tools tend to create hot spots and some warpage or even bubbling may occur. Going through a layer (s) of paint and then whatever your fairing happens to be unless done with great precision will likely require some repainting. Getting a dead on match might be a real PITA.
Thanks to the rest of you so far for your opinions and input as well.![]()
Make a template out of thin plastic. Tape it to the fairing and cut out the opening, then file it to the edge of the template. I think adding the trim might look a bit off. Try a different thermostat that opens at a lower temp. A manual switch for the fans has worked on my R for years. Turn it on when you suspect traffic and it should stay relatively cool. Mine's lighted so I don't forget to turn it off. I've put a switch on every water cooled bike I've had. The fairing will look great with the new openings.
Being fibreglass a highspeed cutting tool might be what is wanted. Depending on the way the fairing was laid up, ie. cloth of standard or tri-axial weave or spray applied by a chopper gun, the material should cut neatly. I would suggest scoring the paint in case the bonding between the matrix (resin) and aggregate (glass fibre) has deteriorated.
Keep in mind that if you cut "fibreglass" of any sort, the raw edges should be resealed. The edges unless dressed and sealed are open to moisture. Maybe an edging of a color coordinated silicone weatherstripping might take care of the moisture problems and any goofs.
Measure three times and cut once..;)
tinkerinWstuff (11-15-2009)

I had Targa lowers on my old '84 VF700F that had reliefs cut out at the bottom of them.
Might look good on your lowers too Tinkerin. Just some food for thought.
![]()
Remember,you're not braking til your rear wheel's lifting,until then you're just slowing down.
Thanks Stosh, I guess I'll see how well she cuts into the uppers first.


Bookmarks