brake pedal replacement

[eadc]

I came out this morning and found that someone had backed into my '96 VFR. It was upright, but had some small cracks in the right side fairing, the mirror was bent back, and the brake pedal was pushed under the heat shield. I pulled it out so I could ride home, but found that if I pushed down, it would just stick, so I opted to just use the front brakes. (note: it's harder than you think to remember to not instinctively use your rear brake along wit the front).

Luckily (?) I picked up a spare brake pedal 15 months ago when my bike was last bumped by a car. I found that I didn't *need* it then, but now I really shouldn't be driving the way it is.

Looking at the Clymer manual, the first step in replacing the brake pedal is to remove the rear wheel. Does anyone know why that is? I mean, I'll do it, just missing the logic here.

[Meatloaf]

I'm not familiar with the 5th gen but the only reason that I can think of for this would be due to clearance issues getting a bolt out or getting a wrench in somewhere to remove a bolt.

[karazy]

The Honda manual doesn't mention the wheel, for the pedal removal. It may make it a little easier, but if you can get at it without it, full speed ahead.
Karazy

[eadc]

I got it done without removing the rear wheel. I think it might make getting to the cotter pin easier, but with some needle-nose pliers, I was fine. Everything else was mainly straight up, but two more questions:

1) when reinstalling, the books gives torque specs for the Allen bolts holding on the foot peg bracket. I only have a torque wrench that works with sockets...can I get away with just having them tight? Or do I need to find a torque Allen set? (I've never even heard of one)

2) With some pliers, fingers and mild swearing, I got the circlip off / on, which held on the final bolt. Is there a "right" way to work with circlips?

Here are some pics of the brake pedal and its replacement.

[karazy]

They sell allan key sockets everywhere, but with the torque being only 20 ft/lbs, I'm sure German torque should be fine. (guhdenteit)

They make snap-ring pliers for those suckers. I did modify a set of needlenose pliers once, because the rings were rusted in so bad on a U-joint.

The new pedal looks so nice and shiny. I think he may miss his cousin, the feeler peg though.

[eadc]

Is the feeler peg the little nub under the end of the foot peg, or is there a part I'm missing? The person before me had sawed / filed off the end of the peg, but I have wide feet, so the peg in the picture is a replacement I put on over the summer. But it should be OEM. Am I missing something?

[karazy]

CheapCycleParts.com's 1995 Honda Street Bike VFR750F Parts List

# 15 & 23 for both sides.

They are there to warn you, when you're getting too low on a turn. They also prevent your feet from dragging. I wonder if they were cut off, or worn off.

[eadc]

Ah, gotcha, thanks. Pretty sure that the previous owner took those off, and when I ordered the new peg, it didn't occur to me that something was missing.