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The 30 amp fuse issue is the main 30 amp fuse next to the battery. After a while, it burns up, turns brittle, and melts. This can be fixed by replacing the fuse holder and wire to the battery with a larger gauge wire and aftermarket fuse holder.
The cause is thought to be Honda’s crappy crimped connections causing too much resistance->heat->burned up wire and fuse holder. A common symptom of this issue is the bike randomly stalling at idle.
The 6th gen’s (possibly the late 5th gens as well) R/Rs have a monitor wire that is supposed to supply battery voltage to the R/R so that the R/R can vary its output according to battery state and system load.
The problem is that this wire gets a voltage drop that gets worse over time causing the R/R to pump out way too much voltage. The fix is to bypass the main harness side of the monitor wire and run your own circuit.
This has been found on nearly every bike it has been checked for with more than 10K miles, and in every case the fix has worked flawlessly. There is even a member of VFRD producing a plug and play wire harness to fix the issue.
My readings before fixing the R/R monitor wire:
Idle: 14.8 volts
Idle with brights: 15.7 volts
5500rpm with brights: 16.4 volts
5500rpm brights and cooling fan: 17+ volts
Readings afterward:
Idle: 14.4 volts
Idle with brights: 14.35
5500rpm with brights: 14.4
5500rpm brights and cooling fan: 14.3
Those were taken with 2 different R/Rs and I had also replaced the stator before figuring out the monitor wire problem. My voltages were higher than most others' who have fixed theirs, but I had a lot more miles on my bike, and generally, the more miles, the worse the problem, and higher the voltages have been.
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