Front tire removal and mounting/balancing

reg71 · 08-08-2006, 12:28 AM

Timeframe: expect at least a few hours the first time
Skill level: average wrench
Cursing level needed: Sailor

What you will need:

1. Means of either jacking up your bike or hanging it to remove front tire. For mine, I used a multi-million dollar hoist, otherwise known as ratchet tie-downs from K-Mart ($15).
2. Standard/Metric tool set ( I use one of the prepacked Craftsman sets which works really well)
3. First-aid kit if you follow my example...(just kidding, sort of)
4. Bead breaker (see article for a picture of my million dollar setup)
5. 2 tire tools (less than $10 ea at most shops if you use the small ones)
6. Valve core wrench (around $3 at NAPA)
7. Balance tool (I used Marc Parnes balancer available online at marcparnes.com for around $135)
8. Jackstands or other device to suspend tire levelly between (see article)

-------------------------------------------
Step 1: Get front end off the ground and remove the front tire. I loosened the necessary bolts before taking the wheel off the ground. Getting the wheel off is relatively easy. Take off the front fender(4 hex bolts). I took off the right caliper (2-12mm bolts) and hung it from a piece of wire so it wasn't hanging by the brake line. Loosen the 2 pinch bolts at the bottom front of the left fork tube (12mm). Remove the axle(22mm)

Here you see my multi-million dollar hoist system, but I have since learned that the bike can be jacked from underneath to achieve the same thing.

Step 2: Once you have the wheel off, you can go ahead and remove the side collars (they may have fallen off pulling the axle) and the discs. I waited to take mine off until after I broke the bead on the old tire then thought better of it and decided next time, I'd take them off first for safety. They come off simply by using a hex wrench. No worries there. Also remove the old weights.

Step 3: Take out the valve core using (you guessed it) the valve core wrench to let the air out. Move on over to your handy-dandy bead breaker. See my multi-million dollar setup below.

You'll note in the photo my discs are still on, so I used 2x's underneath to keep them off the ground. Use the lever the break the bead on both sides and all the way around.

Step 4: Remove the tire. I used 2 short tire tools and cut a piece of hose to protect the paint on my rim while wrestling around with the tire. You can see it here in the pic.

Step 5: Clean the rim, you can use soapy water to make the new tire slide on a little better. Line up the painted mark on the tire with the valve stem and put the new tire on. This should put it roughly in balance, but we'll get it better in a little bit. Make sure the directional arrows all match up correctly on tire and rim. I use the bead breaker for most of the installation of the new tire exept the very last bit. That part gets tight and if you slip you get one of these...

Guess you could say I have blood and sweat and curse words in this installation.

Ouch!

Step 6: Drink a beer to recover from step 5. Put the discs back on just like they were before. Remove any stickers from the tire. Put the valve core back in and air the tire up to set the bead. I AIRED THEM UP TO ABOUT 60-70 PSI and heard two pops. Then I aired them down to 32 PSI. Put the valve cap back on. Balance the tire... Here's a picture of the balancer without a tire so you can see how I set it up.

And here's a picture of the balancer with a wheel on it:

Give the wheel a little turn in the normal direction of travel. When it stops use chalk to mark the top, this is the lightest point of the tire. Add a weight to this spot as close to the center of the rim as possible. See photo:

This is one I removed, but it gives you the idea. You can also use the sticky weights that cost about $2 a strip at the shop. After the weight is applied move the tire to the 3 o'clock position and see if it stays or just slightly moves. If the weight goes back up to the top, you may need to add another. If the weight falls down, try less weight. I never got mine perfect, I just got it to where it would just move a little and called it a day. I have had the tires up to 140 mph with no tire wobble noted.

Step 7: Look how pretty that new tire is:

Remount the tire. Make sure it's going the right direction. I had to go ahead and loosen the left brake caliper so I could move it around because I was scuffing my rim trying to fit it in. The steps are basically reverse of what you already did so I'm gonna skip them as this is getting long already.

Step 8: Depending the number of beers it took you to get past step 5, it is probably time for a ride! Make sure everything is tightened to proper torque (axle 43 ft-lbs, pinch bolts 16 ft-lbs, brake caliper nuts 23 ft-lbs) then hit it. I checked mine by letting go of the handlebars at 80 and coasting down to 30. My line was straight and there was no wobble. You might prefer a safer method, but this worked for me. Hopefully, your first tire change requires less first aid than mine!

jethro911 · 08-08-2006, 08:34 AM

Reg, are you sure that the front tire is installed in the right direction?

I've noticed that the Dunlops Qualifiers, Avons and Michelin Pilot Race tires have the tread drawing towards the center as opposed to away from the center. It seems the eopposite of what you would want.

I can't see the rotation arrow on the tire but the rim is visible. It looks backwards from what I have seen based on the tread direction.

I change my own as well and it does extract some meat from time to time. The Avons and Dunlops are relatively easy compared to the Pilot Race which were soooooooo stiff, it was a battle. I went well beyond the sailor curse levels to O.C.C. levels but did get er done.

reg71 · 08-08-2006, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jethro911

Reg, are you sure that the front tire is installed in the right direction?

I've noticed that the Dunlops Qualifiers, Avons and Michelin Pilot Race tires have the tread drawing towards the center as opposed to away from the center. It seems the eopposite of what you would want.

I can't see the rotation arrow on the tire but the rim is visible. It looks backwards from what I have seen based on the tread direction.

I change my own as well and it does extract some meat from time to time. The Avons and Dunlops are relatively easy compared to the Pilot Race which were soooooooo stiff, it was a battle. I went well beyond the sailor curse levels to O.C.C. levels but did get er done.

ARRRRRRRRRRRRRGHHHHHHH! I think you are right. I went back out and looked. Shit! I got the rear on right but got the f-in front on wrong! Damn, Damn Damn. Well, I can't change it right now. Shit. Well I guess I'll get real good at it before long... Crapola. Well, thanks for telling me... dammit.... I even put in the article to watch for that. Shit! damn damn damn damn.....

jethro911 · 08-09-2006, 07:16 AM

Sorry, I hate to float a turd in your punch bowl like that!

I only noticed because I think the tread should face the other way and I noticed that yours looked like I would install it if there were no arrows.

Nasty finger pic, BTDT a few times, hurts like hell for a few minutes and then your back in the game. My wife still can't understand how I can be bleeding one minute and it looks half healed an hour later with no bandage. Must be a mechanics defense mechanism I guess.
Later Dude.....

reg71 · 08-09-2006, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jethro911

Sorry, I hate to float a turd in your punch bowl like that!

I only noticed because I think the tread should face the other way and I noticed that yours looked like I would install it if there were no arrows.

Nasty finger pic, BTDT a few times, hurts like hell for a few minutes and then your back in the game. My wife still can't understand how I can be bleeding one minute and it looks half healed an hour later with no bandage. Must be a mechanics defense mechanism I guess.
Later Dude.....

you know what's weird is that I looked at the tread again this morning and it looks like it goes the same as the rear. Now the arrow on the rear that says rear is pointing correctly. Now this makes me think it matches since the tread for the front and rear would leave a print going the same direction. I'm confused as hell about it now. It's rides awesome and looks right when I look at it. When I wake up this afternoon, I'll try to get pics of both tires on the bike so you can look at them and help me straighten this out...

Arion · 08-09-2006, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reg71

you know what's weird is that I looked at the tread again this morning and it looks like it goes the same as the rear. Now the arrow on the rear that says rear is pointing correctly. Now this makes me think it matches since the tread for the front and rear would leave a print going the same direction. I'm confused as hell about it now. It's rides awesome and looks right when I look at it. When I wake up this afternoon, I'll try to get pics of both tires on the bike so you can look at them and help me straighten this out...

The front tire is primarily loaded while braking, while the rear tire is primarily loaded while accelerating. These forces are in opposite directions and that is why the tread patterns on many makes of tire seem to point in opposite directions when the tires are mounted with the correct orientations. It is important to get the orientation corrected, otherwise the splices in the tire's carcass will be improperly loaded and prone to premature failure.

reg71 · 08-09-2006, 06:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arion

The front tire is primarily loaded while braking, while the rear tire is primarily loaded while accelerating. These forces are in opposite directions and that is why the tread patterns on many makes of tire seem to point in opposite directions when the tires are mounted with the correct orientations. It is important to get the orientation corrected, otherwise the splices in the tire's carcass will be improperly loaded and prone to premature failure.

Ah, well that explains the tread then... Maybe you can answer my next question, can I just take the rim off turn it around or do I need to take the tire all the way off the rim and rebalance?

Vlad Impaler · 08-09-2006, 06:27 PM

On my '95 the offset on the wheel is made with different size spacers on the axle. Theoretically, I think it'd be possible to do a 180 and reverse the spacers, but I have never tried it. The sweep on your cast spokes would be backward....
If it were mine, I'd bite the bullet and do it over. The balance should be close if not dead-on if you do a perfect flip with the tire on the rim. You could run a perpendicular tape line from bead to bead on the rim, mark the tire with a grease pencil/marker/etc. and hit the same spot on the other side.

Watch that finger this time!

Arion · 08-09-2006, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reg71

Ah, well that explains the tread then... Maybe you can answer my next question, can I just take the rim off turn it around or do I need to take the tire all the way off the rim and rebalance?

You could turn the rim around as a temporary solution, but I agree that it is preferable to remove and remount the tire. The wheel is directional because, like the tire, it is designed to sustain loading primarily in one direction. Otherwise, it would have to be even heavier than it already is to withstand the emergency stops and pot holes of life.

reg71 · 08-10-2006, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vlad Impaler

On my '95 the offset on the wheel is made with different size spacers on the axle. Theoretically, I think it'd be possible to do a 180 and reverse the spacers, but I have never tried it. The sweep on your cast spokes would be backward....
If it were mine, I'd bite the bullet and do it over. The balance should be close if not dead-on if you do a perfect flip with the tire on the rim. You could run a perpendicular tape line from bead to bead on the rim, mark the tire with a grease pencil/marker/etc. and hit the same spot on the other side.

Watch that finger this time!

that's what I was thinking... as much as I hate to, I'm probably gonna flip it tomorrow either after work in the morning or after I wake up before I ride up the coast. I don't want it backwards for my ride up hwy 1... im hoping for no major blood loss this time. third times the charm after all...

reg71 · 08-11-2006, 11:42 AM

vlad, arion, jethro,

look at these pics after I flipped it. it doesn't look right on one hand, but then on the other it does. the small directional arrows now go opposite the tire rotation, but the arrow that says front and points, points forward now... I dunno. It points forward, but that's not the rotation direction. Anyway, I haven't ridden it yet, but I load up and head for SF today so I'm gonna get several miles in on them this way. Hopefully it's right. I can see how with the tire this way the forces of braking would be distributed comparably to acceleration of the rear, though....

Arion · 08-11-2006, 04:57 PM

"...but the arrow that says front and points, points forward now..." Which arrow are you referring to? All I see are the small arrows near the edge of the tread, and you are right, they do point backward.

Vlad Impaler · 08-11-2006, 08:42 PM

Any arrow on tire or rim in my experience should point in rotation direction. I'm looking at that tire arrow and thinking NOW it's backward.
I'm not sure about the "front" comment either. I can't imagine a manufacturer would put "front" on anything that rotates on an axis perpendicular to the machines direction. That would mean the "front" position changes twice with every rotation.

If all you have is arrows on the tire (I know that's the case on the rim) everything should point in rotation direction IMO.
If you want to get away from everyones opinion, call your local shop and ask.
My Metzelers have small arrows and "ROTATION" in small text with 'em.

WhiteKnight · 08-11-2006, 08:49 PM

I am thinking that with no other marking on the tire to say otherwise, the tire is now on there backwards. Guess you had it right the first time. The rim is correct as shown by the arrows direction.

reg71 · 08-11-2006, 11:28 PM

well, I made it to SF with no situations on the tires. I'm still feeling they are backwards so I guess I'll switch them back to the way I started and I'll kill jethro for talking me into thinking I had them wrong! Man, I'm getting fast at swapping cause this morning, the first time I removed and remounted them the correct way then looked and realized I had them the same direction, so I did it again. If I flip again, itll be the 4th time I have mounted this 1 tire! I'm gonna try to stop by a shop while I'm here in SF and see what they say, but I think they're gonna look at me like Im an idiot...

seadooloo · 08-12-2006, 08:54 AM

Step 7: Look how pretty that new tire is:

This picture shows everything in the proper direction of rotation if the bike is facing toward the right, with the rear tire to the left and the front tire to the right.
It seems to me you had everything on correct the first time and then someone made you second guess yourself and now you are riding around with your tire going in the wrong direction.
Sometimes it is best to just know that you did something the right way and disregard those who question it.

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08-08-2006, 12:28 AM	#1 (permalink)
reg71 Squidleyous Maximus Join Date: Feb 2006 Last Online: Today 09:32 AM Location: Central Coast, CA - Find Me! My Ride: 1998 VFR 800, 2003 YZ 450 F, 1990 Suzuki DR 100 View my Photo Gallery Posts: 4,356 Thanks: 2 Thanked 40 Times in 29 Posts	Front tire removal and mounting/balancing Timeframe: expect at least a few hours the first time Skill level: average wrench Cursing level needed: Sailor What you will need: 1. Means of either jacking up your bike or hanging it to remove front tire. For mine, I used a multi-million dollar hoist, otherwise known as ratchet tie-downs from K-Mart ($15). 2. Standard/Metric tool set ( I use one of the prepacked Craftsman sets which works really well) 3. First-aid kit if you follow my example...(just kidding, sort of) 4. Bead breaker (see article for a picture of my million dollar setup) 5. 2 tire tools (less than $10 ea at most shops if you use the small ones) 6. Valve core wrench (around $3 at NAPA) 7. Balance tool (I used Marc Parnes balancer available online at marcparnes.com for around $135) 8. Jackstands or other device to suspend tire levelly between (see article) ------------------------------------------- Step 1: Get front end off the ground and remove the front tire. I loosened the necessary bolts before taking the wheel off the ground. Getting the wheel off is relatively easy. Take off the front fender(4 hex bolts). I took off the right caliper (2-12mm bolts) and hung it from a piece of wire so it wasn't hanging by the brake line. Loosen the 2 pinch bolts at the bottom front of the left fork tube (12mm). Remove the axle(22mm) Here you see my multi-million dollar hoist system, but I have since learned that the bike can be jacked from underneath to achieve the same thing. Step 2: Once you have the wheel off, you can go ahead and remove the side collars (they may have fallen off pulling the axle) and the discs. I waited to take mine off until after I broke the bead on the old tire then thought better of it and decided next time, I'd take them off first for safety. They come off simply by using a hex wrench. No worries there. Also remove the old weights. Step 3: Take out the valve core using (you guessed it) the valve core wrench to let the air out. Move on over to your handy-dandy bead breaker. See my multi-million dollar setup below. You'll note in the photo my discs are still on, so I used 2x's underneath to keep them off the ground. Use the lever the break the bead on both sides and all the way around. Step 4: Remove the tire. I used 2 short tire tools and cut a piece of hose to protect the paint on my rim while wrestling around with the tire. You can see it here in the pic. Step 5: Clean the rim, you can use soapy water to make the new tire slide on a little better. Line up the painted mark on the tire with the valve stem and put the new tire on. This should put it roughly in balance, but we'll get it better in a little bit. Make sure the directional arrows all match up correctly on tire and rim. I use the bead breaker for most of the installation of the new tire exept the very last bit. That part gets tight and if you slip you get one of these... Guess you could say I have blood and sweat and curse words in this installation. Ouch! Step 6: Drink a beer to recover from step 5. Put the discs back on just like they were before. Remove any stickers from the tire. Put the valve core back in and air the tire up to set the bead. I AIRED THEM UP TO ABOUT 60-70 PSI and heard two pops. Then I aired them down to 32 PSI. Put the valve cap back on. Balance the tire... Here's a picture of the balancer without a tire so you can see how I set it up. And here's a picture of the balancer with a wheel on it: Give the wheel a little turn in the normal direction of travel. When it stops use chalk to mark the top, this is the lightest point of the tire. Add a weight to this spot as close to the center of the rim as possible. See photo: This is one I removed, but it gives you the idea. You can also use the sticky weights that cost about $2 a strip at the shop. After the weight is applied move the tire to the 3 o'clock position and see if it stays or just slightly moves. If the weight goes back up to the top, you may need to add another. If the weight falls down, try less weight. I never got mine perfect, I just got it to where it would just move a little and called it a day. I have had the tires up to 140 mph with no tire wobble noted. Step 7: Look how pretty that new tire is: Remount the tire. Make sure it's going the right direction. I had to go ahead and loosen the left brake caliper so I could move it around because I was scuffing my rim trying to fit it in. The steps are basically reverse of what you already did so I'm gonna skip them as this is getting long already. Step 8: Depending the number of beers it took you to get past step 5, it is probably time for a ride! Make sure everything is tightened to proper torque (axle 43 ft-lbs, pinch bolts 16 ft-lbs, brake caliper nuts 23 ft-lbs) then hit it. I checked mine by letting go of the handlebars at 80 and coasting down to 30. My line was straight and there was no wobble. You might prefer a safer method, but this worked for me. Hopefully, your first tire change requires less first aid than mine! __________________ _____________________________________________________ Reg71 - Central Coast, CA 98 VFR 800 - 5G Brotherhood

08-08-2006, 08:34 AM	#2 (permalink)
jethro911 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Last Online: 08-10-2008 06:24 PM Location: Belleville Ontario - Find Me! My Ride: 1990 vfr750 sold 1998 vfr800 sold 2001 Ducati 748 1998 VFR 800 again! 2001 Ducati 748 "tracktime" View my Photo Gallery Posts: 325 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Reg, are you sure that the front tire is installed in the right direction? I've noticed that the Dunlops Qualifiers, Avons and Michelin Pilot Race tires have the tread drawing towards the center as opposed to away from the center. It seems the eopposite of what you would want. I can't see the rotation arrow on the tire but the rim is visible. It looks backwards from what I have seen based on the tread direction. I change my own as well and it does extract some meat from time to time. The Avons and Dunlops are relatively easy compared to the Pilot Race which were soooooooo stiff, it was a battle. I went well beyond the sailor curse levels to O.C.C. levels but did get er done. __________________ Jethro911_Belleville Ontario_1998 VFR800 " You can teach a monkey to ride a bike but what is he gonna do when the chain falls off"

08-09-2006, 07:16 AM	#4 (permalink)
jethro911 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Last Online: 08-10-2008 06:24 PM Location: Belleville Ontario - Find Me! My Ride: 1990 vfr750 sold 1998 vfr800 sold 2001 Ducati 748 1998 VFR 800 again! 2001 Ducati 748 "tracktime" View my Photo Gallery Posts: 325 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Sorry, I hate to float a turd in your punch bowl like that! I only noticed because I think the tread should face the other way and I noticed that yours looked like I would install it if there were no arrows. Nasty finger pic, BTDT a few times, hurts like hell for a few minutes and then your back in the game. My wife still can't understand how I can be bleeding one minute and it looks half healed an hour later with no bandage. Must be a mechanics defense mechanism I guess. Later Dude..... __________________ Jethro911_Belleville Ontario_1998 VFR800 " You can teach a monkey to ride a bike but what is he gonna do when the chain falls off"

08-11-2006, 11:42 AM	#11 (permalink)
reg71 Squidleyous Maximus Join Date: Feb 2006 Last Online: Today 09:32 AM Location: Central Coast, CA - Find Me! My Ride: 1998 VFR 800, 2003 YZ 450 F, 1990 Suzuki DR 100 View my Photo Gallery Posts: 4,356 Thanks: 2 Thanked 40 Times in 29 Posts	vlad, arion, jethro, look at these pics after I flipped it. it doesn't look right on one hand, but then on the other it does. the small directional arrows now go opposite the tire rotation, but the arrow that says front and points, points forward now... I dunno. It points forward, but that's not the rotation direction. Anyway, I haven't ridden it yet, but I load up and head for SF today so I'm gonna get several miles in on them this way. Hopefully it's right. I can see how with the tire this way the forces of braking would be distributed comparably to acceleration of the rear, though.... __________________ _____________________________________________________ Reg71 - Central Coast, CA 98 VFR 800 - 5G Brotherhood

08-09-2006, 06:27 PM	#8 (permalink)
Vlad Impaler Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Last Online: Yesterday 05:15 PM Location: Indianapolis, Indiana - Find Me! My Ride: 1995 VFR750 View my Photo Gallery Posts: 490 Thanks: 3 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts	On my '95 the offset on the wheel is made with different size spacers on the axle. Theoretically, I think it'd be possible to do a 180 and reverse the spacers, but I have never tried it. The sweep on your cast spokes would be backward.... If it were mine, I'd bite the bullet and do it over. The balance should be close if not dead-on if you do a perfect flip with the tire on the rim. You could run a perpendicular tape line from bead to bead on the rim, mark the tire with a grease pencil/marker/etc. and hit the same spot on the other side. Watch that finger this time!

08-11-2006, 04:57 PM	#12 (permalink)
Arion Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Last Online: 04-27-2008 05:31 PM My Ride: 2001 VFR800Fi Posts: 16 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	"...but the arrow that says front and points, points forward now..." Which arrow are you referring to? All I see are the small arrows near the edge of the tread, and you are right, they do point backward.

08-11-2006, 08:42 PM	#13 (permalink)
Vlad Impaler Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Last Online: Yesterday 05:15 PM Location: Indianapolis, Indiana - Find Me! My Ride: 1995 VFR750 View my Photo Gallery Posts: 490 Thanks: 3 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts	Any arrow on tire or rim in my experience should point in rotation direction. I'm looking at that tire arrow and thinking NOW it's backward. I'm not sure about the "front" comment either. I can't imagine a manufacturer would put "front" on anything that rotates on an axis perpendicular to the machines direction. That would mean the "front" position changes twice with every rotation. If all you have is arrows on the tire (I know that's the case on the rim) everything should point in rotation direction IMO. If you want to get away from everyones opinion, call your local shop and ask. My Metzelers have small arrows and "ROTATION" in small text with 'em.

08-11-2006, 08:49 PM	#14 (permalink)
WhiteKnight Moderator Join Date: May 2006 Last Online: 11-16-2008 12:16 PM Location: South Central Ky - Find Me! View my Photo Gallery Posts: 2,321 Thanks: 5 Thanked 18 Times in 18 Posts	I am thinking that with no other marking on the tire to say otherwise, the tire is now on there backwards. Guess you had it right the first time. The rim is correct as shown by the arrows direction. __________________ http://www.nrwhiteknight.net

08-11-2006, 11:28 PM	#15 (permalink)
reg71 Squidleyous Maximus Join Date: Feb 2006 Last Online: Today 09:32 AM Location: Central Coast, CA - Find Me! My Ride: 1998 VFR 800, 2003 YZ 450 F, 1990 Suzuki DR 100 View my Photo Gallery Posts: 4,356 Thanks: 2 Thanked 40 Times in 29 Posts	well, I made it to SF with no situations on the tires. I'm still feeling they are backwards so I guess I'll switch them back to the way I started and I'll kill jethro for talking me into thinking I had them wrong! Man, I'm getting fast at swapping cause this morning, the first time I removed and remounted them the correct way then looked and realized I had them the same direction, so I did it again. If I flip again, itll be the 4th time I have mounted this 1 tire! I'm gonna try to stop by a shop while I'm here in SF and see what they say, but I think they're gonna look at me like Im an idiot... __________________ _____________________________________________________ Reg71 - Central Coast, CA 98 VFR 800 - 5G Brotherhood

08-12-2006, 08:54 AM	#16 (permalink)
seadooloo Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Last Online: 11-13-2008 08:26 PM Location: New Baltimore, Michigan My Ride: 2002 Vtec View my Photo Gallery Posts: 93 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Step 7: Look how pretty that new tire is: This picture shows everything in the proper direction of rotation if the bike is facing toward the right, with the rear tire to the left and the front tire to the right. It seems to me you had everything on correct the first time and then someone made you second guess yourself and now you are riding around with your tire going in the wrong direction. Sometimes it is best to just know that you did something the right way and disregard those who question it.