Not a Teaser! 1983 VF750F resto project

[JamieDaugherty]

Originally Posted by fabinator

Notice to anybody doing the oil mod:

There is an arrow pointing to a round flat spot on the bottom of the crankcase. It's cast right into the aluminum, you can't miss it. This is where the hole needs to go, right in the middle of that dot.

I don't know for sure why it's there, but some people think Honda originally planned on feeding oil to the heads from there. Whether it be for cosmetic reasons, or the chance of an oil line getting smashed, the engineers changed the plan later on... leaving a few artifacts behind.

The markings and landing for the banjo may still be there, but if it were to be put to use by the factory, the banjo landing would have been machined smooth. Use a mill file to smooth out the rough casting surface, so the crush washer can make a positive seal at normal bolt torque.

FYI - not all years and models had this. It was obviously there for a reason (I'm sure it was for this purpose) but when the casting tools were replaced they deleted it because it was not being used.

These details and more can be found on my site if anyone is interested.

[Sebspeed]

Originally Posted by supertex

That looks great. Much brighter? Are you going to replace said faded cover?

Bright enough for ya?

[fabinator]

Originally Posted by Sebspeed

Good observation.

I'm going to use a 90deg NPT -> AN fitting, which the hose screws onto. That will run to a tee and split off to each head with AN fittings from there, to banjos at the heads.

Ah, yes. That would eliminate the need for a third banjo, and you won't need to flatten the banjo land. Where did you get the banjos?

I also noticed the lighting in the gauges is... um... it looks a little uneven. I've had the same problem when taking photos of dash conversions I've done, but in my case, it usually only looks like that through the camera. Is it the same with you?

[fabinator]

Originally Posted by JamieDaugherty

FYI - not all years and models had this. It was obviously there for a reason (I'm sure it was for this purpose) but when the casting tools were replaced they deleted it because it was not being used.

These details and more can be found on my site if anyone is interested.

Hmm. that's interesting. I wonder, did it stop when they made the 700, or was it earlier than that?

I took a look at your site, and I gotta say that stuff looks so good right now. I think we'll be seeing a lot more of each other once I get that damn yamaha out of my apartment.

[Sebspeed]

Originally Posted by fabinator

Ah, yes. That would eliminate the need for a third banjo, and you won't need to flatten the banjo land. Where did you get the banjos?

I also noticed the lighting in the gauges is... um... it looks a little uneven. I've had the same problem when taking photos of dash conversions I've done, but in my case, it usually only looks like that through the camera. Is it the same with you?

It is a bit uneven, but not as bad as the pic makes it look. I still have room to adjust the sockets a bit too(move them in/out to make up some intensity).

[dcompson]

Seb, that gauge setup looks BRIGHT!

[fabinator]

well then, I'll share a little secret (maybe) with you... If you put a layer or two of vellum under the gauge face, it will even out the intensity considerably. Be very careful when removing the needle, they break easier than cigarette ash.

[Darkhorse393]

Those gauges look great! I'm definitly going to have to do that mod!

[Darkhorse393]

How far are you now? I was curious if you are going to put (if you can find them) different cams in the engine, since you might be using that 48 tooth rear you could push the power up the rpm range a bit. Or am I way off here? I know with cars you gear it according to use but bikes sem to be a whole different story.

[Sebspeed]

Originally Posted by Darkhorse393

How far are you now? I was curious if you are going to put (if you can find them) different cams in the engine, since you might be using that 48 tooth rear you could push the power up the rpm range a bit. Or am I way off here? I know with cars you gear it according to use but bikes sem to be a whole different story.

There are several sources for cams, most require that you send a set of cams to be welded and reground. It's a matter of choosing a company to do it.

No recent progress on this build, except I'm still trying to solve the upper mounting bolt being broken in the head problem.

I just recently got an '86 VFR, been working on that too. That one's getting a 900RR rear wheel, complete F3 front end, Ducati tail, and Kawasaki 636 upper fairing...

[supertex]

Originally Posted by Sebspeed

I just recently got an '86 VFR, been working on that too. That one's getting a 900RR rear wheel, complete F3 front end, Ducati tail, and Kawasaki 636 upper fairing...

I have got to see that! PICS please

[Sebspeed]

I'll post another build thread when I get a little farther along. Right now the bike is stripped of bodywork and has the RR wheel in; I'm waiting for a bunch of parts to show up so I can mock them up.

Also need to get the aluminum tubing for the new subframe. I think I'm going to do some creative cosmetic surgery on the tank to help it flow into the 1098 tail...

[supertex]

Originally Posted by Sebspeed

I think I'm going to do some creative cosmetic surgery on the tank to hel pit flow into the 1098 tail...

I had to look twice. Did you mean help with the bodyline flow?

[Sebspeed]

Originally Posted by supertex

I had to look twice. Did you mean help with the bodyline flow?

Yes, to help the lines. The VFR tank is huge in comparison to the 636 and 1098 parts. I have to cut the bottom rear of the tank flat for sure, I might also cut it along the "knee pocket" and vertically at the rear to pull the sides in about 1.5".

That'll give a better shelf to stick a knee in while hanging off, will allow me to use the Duc 1098 side panels without modification, and will make it easier to fit the Duc seat.

The reason for cutting it flat on the bottom is to give me more options on how to build the subframe. I was thinking of building a battery box into the underside of the tank while I was at it. The tank will still have enough capacity to go on longer rides or lap around long tracks.

[supertex]

Sounds extensive. But with my appetite for customization it sounds like something I would do if I had the skills.

[Sebspeed]

Originally Posted by supertex

Sounds extensive. But with my appetite for customization it sounds like something I would do if I had the skills.

Built, not bought! Yeah baby!

[midias]

Originally Posted by Sebspeed

Haven't been able to try them yet, maybe today.

Gonna try some Brasso polish on the 86 gauge cover, it's worked before. Autosol should work too. Wanna buy them? I won't be using them in the 86 build!

Not sure if you have done this yet but mcguires Plastx clear plastic wax / cleaner works great.

[supertex]

Seb are you painting engine covers ( I'm sure you are ) and what are you going to use to do it?

[Sebspeed]

Originally Posted by supertex

Seb are you painting engine covers ( I'm sure you are ) and what are you going to use to do it?

I assume you're asking about the '86... in which case the answer is yes, but I'm not sure yet. I haven't found a high temp textured paint that matches the sand color of the 86 yet.

If you're asking about the '83, then no, the block is in great shape. I have a NOS clutch cover and a nice stator cover that will be partially polished along with the valve covers.