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Old 07-23-2008, 06:35 AM   #1 (permalink)
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fork seal tool diameter

Hi Guys. Does anyone have handy the inside diameter of the fork seal driving tool for the 1986 vfr 700/750? I guess were talking about the O.D. of the fork tubes. I'm finally going to get around to it tomorrow but the bike is at home and if I'm going to make up a tool I'd like to do it here at work today. I've heard of guys slitting a PVC pipe in halves... How long does the tool need to be? Is it just a tube with the correct I.D.? Aluminum, nylon? Will this same tool drive the bushings? If someone has made up a slick tool please describe it.

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Old 07-23-2008, 11:48 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I'm not sure how the 700/750's forks differ from the 500's but my brother and I just did my 500 a few weeks ago using a plain PVC pipe - not cuts necessary. Fit perfectly around the tube and lined up with the seal to drive it in. I'd say give that a shot unless someone else pops up that knows that it won't fit.
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Old 07-23-2008, 12:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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fork tool

I should have done a little checking before I started this thread. I think the tubes are 37 mm, which is 1.457". Did you use a 1.5" ID tube? This leaves .022 per side slop. The bushings might slip right through there. If 37 mm is the size I think I'll buy some 2" diameter round delrin bar and bore the hole 1.460" or so.

Anyone want to chime in?
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Old 07-23-2008, 12:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vejesse View Post
I should have done a little checking before I started this thread. I think the tubes are 37 mm, which is 1.457". Did you use a 1.5" ID tube? This leaves .022 per side slop. The bushings might slip right through there. If 37 mm is the size I think I'll buy some 2" diameter round delrin bar and bore the hole 1.460" or so.

Anyone want to chime in?
A lot of forks have a large washer between the bushing and the seal. Set that on the bushing and push it in with the PVC.
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Old 07-23-2008, 12:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Been using the PVC pipe for YEARS!!

Just a helpful tip. When you use the PVC pipe, make sure to purchase a end cap or the pipe will crack or make chips that will fly into your fork legs.

Use a bench sander to sand the pipes diameter get he exact fit of the inside diameter of your lower fork legs, and if it's too small, you run the chance of damaging your fork seals sealing lip.

Make sure to put the seals in with the upper fork legs in the lower legs!!!
Very important......

Other than that, just tap her in slowly and evenly and your set.

Now go fix them and ride

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Old 07-23-2008, 01:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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is everyone using an impact gun to get that one tight
bolt off? or is there a home remedy?
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Old 07-25-2008, 12:37 PM   #7 (permalink)
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What bolt??
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Old 07-25-2008, 01:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
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What bolt??
Perhaps he means the damper rod bolt on the bottom of the fork outer.
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Old 07-28-2008, 12:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The damper rod the bottom bolt attaches to can spin inside the lower if there is nothing to keep the damper rod from spinning. To keep the damper rod from spinning, put the springs back in and screw in the fork cap. The springs will keep the damper from spinning as you remove the bolt.

It is not unheard of to need an impact gun to remove the bolt (air or electric will both work)
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Old 07-31-2008, 12:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Fork seal tool

What I did was take the new fork seal to the hardware store and find a PVC part that would fit over the tube and make contact w/ the seal. it's was a bushing, in my case I think it's a 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 bushing THe hard part about the whole thing was removing those stout snap rings my snap ring pliers are crap I ended up using a set of needle nose pliers and a screw driver to pry them out. I'd use more than the bushing also. Using just the bushing didn't give me much to hold onto and you really need like a pipe to grip so you can really smack them in place. it took me a good deal of effort.
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