Reinstalling carbs...

[savedrider]

I am getting close to being able to reinstall my carbs. I'm looking for any tips that might help make it go smoothly. The service manual doesn't say a whole lot other than using some motor oil on the carbs boots/insulators. I know I had a heck of a time getting them off, but that was mostly due to the old hardened boots/insulators. I am putting everything back together with brand new boots/insulators and figured I'd smear some synthetic oil on the carb boots. I also might preheat the boots with a heat gun/hair dryer to make them more pliable before installation.

[EasyMac]

I just did this, I knew it would not be easy based on how hard they were to get off so I did a "VFR Carb installation" google search and saw somewhere where someone installed V four carbs on a Sabre with a tie down strap. I did the same but I had to use 5 tie down straps. I put the 2 rear insulators sleeves completely on the rear cylinders and set the two insulators on the front, not completely on, so they could be tilted forward a little. Put all 8 clamps on as loose as possible. If your re using the old insulators, they may be slightly deformed and you should align the front ones to take advantage of the deformation so the top of the front sleeves are as far forward as possible.

I used two straps to pull the carbs into the rear cylinders as tight as possible. Just using one strap only seemed to tighten the side with the rachet so I used two straps, each run accross the front of the carb, routed between the carb and side frame, and hooked back on the rear foot peg brackets. A rachet on each side of the bike. Tighten each strap enough so that the front carbs align over the front insulators. Then I used two straps to pull the carb down. Again rachets on each side of the bike. Tighten a little at a time and check to make sure its going on ok and the front sleeves get alinged ok. I had to set about 5" of wood blocks on top of the carb to help get leverage to pull it down and and needed the 5th strap to keep the blocks from being pulled off during the pull down.
I craked one of the rear insulators the first time I tried this. They were old and brittle. (Note that the Sabre guy I read about was able to just push his carbs down once he tightened the rear ones). I ordered two new insulators and put them on the rear and they were soft enough to not crack. I also heated the old ones and sprayed them with Honda Silicone spray.

Also remember to put all the clamps on so the screws are oreinted so you can get at them. I also replaced the clamp's phillip head screws with allen heads. The phillips ones kept pushing away when I tried to lossen them taking the carbs off. I have not started it yet because Im still working on cleaning my gas tank, but the carbs are on.

[savedrider]

Thanks man, that really helps. I think I've got an idea how you used the straps. Sure wish I could see a picture. I never thought of the ratcheting straps though, that may just work out real good.

[douglasthecook]

My carb boots weren't brittle. I simply lubed them, and the corresponding mating surface with a little vaseline, pushed pretty good, and they went in (alot easier than they came out). I did however install my throttle cables backwards, and upon the operational/functional check I discovered this. It was easy enough to fix though.

[DANIMAL]

i just lubed up new insulators with silicone grease and pushed them on by hand. it was easier to put on than to remove the old ones. wish I had thought of using ratcheting straps. thats why I love this sight.

[waldrm]

On my VFR as well as inline fours I use the woodworking clamps available from Lowe's or home depot to squeeze the carb boots down into position. Need to use 4 18" clamps to evenly seat the VFR carbs while an inline 4 like my CB1000 can be done with only 2.

[JamieDaugherty]

You can see the procedure on my site. Just click on the 'How To' link and it will take you there. I've tried to include pictures and descriptions of each step. It's really pretty easy once you do it a few times, providing you know the tricks!

Good luck!

[savedrider]

Awesome, thanks for all the information guys! I will probably just lube up the boots first and see how far I get. If I run into trouble from there I will employ some of these great tips!

Just waiting on a couple more parts from the Honda dealer...it's taking forever!

[JamieDaugherty]

Just using some grease probably won't be enough. The key is to pull the rear two insulators off and put them at an angle. Check out the photos on my site if this doesn't make sense. You'll waste a bunch of time trying to force the carbs into the boots without this method.

[RVFR]

Good read,what I did first thing was to get a good pair of leather gloves, to many sharp thingys to gets ya. I like that replace the screw with allens good one, I used my old boots though as stated more than once way harder getting em off. I warmed my boots up up, hair dryer, used a teflon lube, then guided the rear ones in place till I felt the snap bump, at the same time I made sure the lips of the carbs were inside the front boots then with a really good push they too went snap bump, wouldn't have been able to do that with out the gloves. as it takes a good form to be able to apply the pressure where needed. good luck they do go back inplace..

[savedrider]

Originally Posted by JamieDaugherty

Just using some grease probably won't be enough. The key is to pull the rear two insulators off and put them at an angle. Check out the photos on my site if this doesn't make sense. You'll waste a bunch of time trying to force the carbs into the boots without this method.

Yeah, I read your writeup and checked the pics. So once the rear carb lips are inside the boots you don't have any problem getting the cylinder side of the boots into place?

[RVFR]

^ Yes, that's what I did, installed into the rear intake boots first, but I didn't have to loosen the boot bolts to get that added angle, I just kept the boots good and warm, maybe even hot to the bare hand, if they're cold forget it. and watch the front as that way you don't pinch the front intake boots where you won't be able to push in the carbs.

[JamieDaugherty]

Nope, the insulators will slide over the head spigots at the same time. It's like magic!

Originally Posted by savedrider

Yeah, I read your writeup and checked the pics. So once the rear carb lips are inside the boots you don't have any problem getting the cylinder side of the boots into place?