Wheel conversions for 1986-1987

[JasonJ]

Originally Posted by keny

That great to know, bad I cant get thoese parts where I live.
I will play whit oil wight to see how it works till I get that ZX9 fork thing worked out.

Sure you can! you they are sold by for diameter not specific application. I dont recall the dia of the VFR forks, 27mm rings a bell.

[JasonJ]

Looks like they are 29mm.
Race tech has them, they are $150 now, they were $100 when I got them a few (over 10!) years back.
FEGV S3501
Gold Valve Cartridge Fork Emulator 29.0/21.1/16.0mm* $149.99
HONDA
82-83 FT 500 Ascot, 83-84 VT 500FT Ascot, 87-90 CBR 600F, 86-87 VFR 700***, 86 VFR 750, 81-82 CBX 1100

I found those listed on hardracing.com

[XRayHound]

Originally Posted by fatso1277

sorry to change subject, but for any of the guys who did do the F2 conversion, did they have the VFR steering stem lathed down to match that of the CBR? or is that even necessary?

It's not necessary. The VFR and F2 steering stems are identical in all dimensions except for one, which necessitates moving the VFR stem over to the F2 triple: length.

[fatso1277]

Originally Posted by XRayHound

It's not necessary. The VFR and F2 steering stems are identical in all dimensions except for one, which necessitates moving the VFR stem over to the F2 triple: length.

cool thanks.

[keny]

Originally Posted by JasonJ

Looks like they are 29mm.
Race tech has them, they are $150 now, they were $100 when I got them a few (over 10!) years back.
FEGV S3501
Gold Valve Cartridge Fork Emulator 29.0/21.1/16.0mm* $149.99
HONDA
82-83 FT 500 Ascot, 83-84 VT 500FT Ascot, 87-90 CBR 600F, 86-87 VFR 700***, 86 VFR 750, 81-82 CBX 1100

I found those listed on hardracing.com

Thanks!
Did they come whit instructions how to mount?

[JasonJ]

yeah, very detailed instructions. Basicly you open up your forks, drill out the dampening rods with about 6 holes (to bypass them). Then set the emulators on top of the rods, place the springs over them, and cut your spacer the with of the valve (16mm) unless you want a higher spring rate. Replace your seals while your in there ( I used promolly leak proof low stiction) and put it together. They advise you to make a tool out of a bent coat hanger to fish the valves out of the fork when they are full of oil for easy adjustment. You adjust the valves by removing the springs, fishing them out with said tool, and turning the clickers on them. Again I used ATF oil and I belive my happy setting is in my service manual ademdium. I have to redo my forks this week since my old ons are bent and need to move the valves and progressive springs to the new tubes so I can take pictures if you like.
I also used progressive springs that were a few inches longer that required cutting the fork spacers down even more to compensate.
The valves also disable the anti dive valve but the bike handels so much better under hard braking now with the valves its not missed at all. You can still feel the notch as you start to apply the front brakes and the calliper pushes the pistion in. It is possible to weld or hard mount the calliper, maybe Ill work on that with the new fork. No big deal either way though.

[JamieDaugherty]

Originally Posted by alden

is this also applicable to the 84-86 vf500?

Sure, check out my site for details! If you have any questions feel free to shoot me an e-mail at jamie@daughertymotorsports.com .

[keny]

Originally Posted by JasonJ

yeah, very detailed instructions. Basicly you open up your forks, drill out the dampening rods with about 6 holes (to bypass them). Then set the emulators on top of the rods, place the springs over them, and cut your spacer the with of the valve (16mm) unless you want a higher spring rate. Replace your seals while your in there ( I used promolly leak proof low stiction) and put it together. They advise you to make a tool out of a bent coat hanger to fish the valves out of the fork when they are full of oil for easy adjustment. You adjust the valves by removing the springs, fishing them out with said tool, and turning the clickers on them. Again I used ATF oil and I belive my happy setting is in my service manual ademdium. I have to redo my forks this week since my old ons are bent and need to move the valves and progressive springs to the new tubes so I can take pictures if you like.
I also used progressive springs that were a few inches longer that required cutting the fork spacers down even more to compensate.
The valves also disable the anti dive valve but the bike handels so much better under hard braking now with the valves its not missed at all. You can still feel the notch as you start to apply the front brakes and the calliper pushes the pistion in. It is possible to weld or hard mount the calliper, maybe Ill work on that with the new fork. No big deal either way though.

Thanks, I sure like some pics if possible. sounds like this will be the ticket...

[JasonJ]

Here is the valve. Again, you just drill out holes in the side of the rods to by pass them, and compensate for the extra height of the valve by cutting down the plastic spring spacer that sits on top of the spring. You adjust the valve by turing that nut to set spring pressure of the valve opening. The valve opens more when more pressure is applied by the oil in the suspension so the opening is dynamic with conditions instead of a static hole adjusted by oil weight.
BTW the oil in my forks was wasted! Only about 20 K on it. Note to self and others, change fork oil at least every 2 years or more if the front of your bike works hard like they need to here on Pa roads!

Any info on that fox rear shock upgrade?

[fatso1277]

i called FOX and they dont make it for street application...i assume there are some out here...check with jamie daugherty.

[XRayHound]

Yeah, FOX stopped making for street applications. Mine I got off eBay, it was listed for a CBR600F1 Hurricane. I made it fit, but Jamie converted it properly when he rebuilt it for me, it works perfect.

[fox240]

i've got a question for you. i hit a deer on thurs with my bike. frame and motor are good needs plastic and suspension. could u take the forks and rear swing arm assy off an early cbr and would it fit on a 86 vfr 750?

[aus1000R]

...Jamie Daugherty is the man to talk to about VFR wheel conversions,he supplied the kits to fit f2 wheels to my 1000R,took me a bit over an hour to remove the old and fit the new wheels with no hassles. you can find him at daughertymotorsports.com

[twowheelracer]

I was thinking about swaping front and rear wheels on my '83VFF but after reading this thread I'll just keep the stock wheels(which I really like anyway)and keep looking for tires

[jamey2466]

I put on a 2001 f4i rear rim on my 1986 vfr700f with a 180 not to much work.

[VFRmeASAP]

I bought a 86 700 I'm new at this VFR stuff could some one point me to a good replacement tire/ It has Bridgestone Batalx BT-17 RV 140/v80 18 in the back

What numbers should I go off of

[Wrencher]

Hey guys, I know this is off topic, so to speak, but heres my situation.

I have an '86 VF1000R with a complete front end off a '96 XZ-7R, but the front forks look like they'd be way too low. Any thoughts on using this?

I also have a rear rim from a 929RR that I'd consider swapping if possible.

Thanks for the info!

[JamieDaugherty]

Originally Posted by Wrencher

Hey guys, I know this is off topic, so to speak, but heres my situation.

I have an '86 VF1000R with a complete front end off a '96 XZ-7R, but the front forks look like they'd be way too low. Any thoughts on using this?

I also have a rear rim from a 929RR that I'd consider swapping if possible.

Thanks for the info!

Yeah, I saw your comments on this on the V4HondaBBS. The ZX forks are pretty short but with a custom offset triple clamp set you could make these work. Those parts are really expensive, keep in mind.

Also, the 929 rear wheel is pretty wide and I do not think it would fit in the swingarm. Normally it's the chain that limits things in the rear, but in the case of the wheel you mention I think the swingarm itself would also cause some problems. Again, figure on a handful of expensive custom machined parts to make that work.

Anything is possible!