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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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DIY- Oil change on 4 gen.
This was my first oil change so I came to this site looking for a DIY to see
if there were any "surprises" in this task. I did not find any for a 4 gen bike. So, I decided to document my experience. This task took a lot longer and it was harder than anticipated. First time I do it on this bike so I hope this DIY helps others and gives you a better idea of what you are up against. 1) Remove left side fairing. I removed the right one first and ended up removing the left. One allen screw and 5 half turn screws and you can remove the fairing. 1.jpg 2) Use a 17mm socket wrench to open the drain plug. That thing was tight. Be careful not to drop the bike in the process. 3) Let it bleed. 3.jpg 4) So here is the right panel view of the next target in the process. No way to get to that filter from the right side. I tried and actually got the socket wrench in there but I had no room to maneuver and turn the filter. At this point, I'm thinking... " I should have removed the LEFT panel as indicated in the manual" 2.jpg 5) front view so you can see spacing to get to the filter. Not a lot of room. 4.jpg 6) Get the right tools for this task. oil filter wrench cap or wrench strap tool. 7.jpg 7) Left fairing removed. A little more room to work. I got an oil filter wrench on the filter but the thing would not turn. I tried and tried and tried. So, I switched to the wrench strap. That did it. 6.jpg 8) Remove the screw that holds the lower black fairing. This will give you room to easily "pull" the black fairing and have room to remove the oil filter once you unscrew it. 9.jpg I learned this the hard way... I unscrewed the filter and then I realize there is no room to easily remove the filter from there. Oh well. I just turn in up side downand let it drain. 8.jpg 9) Clean any spilled oil, attach the new filter, plug the oil drain, give it some oil. 10.jpg 10) I put 3 quarts and then turned on the bike. let it idle for a few minutes and then checked for leaks at the filter and the drain plug. Add more oil as needed. 11) If all good, put the fairing(s) back on and go get a drink 12) Now go ride your baby. ![]()
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#2 (permalink) |
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Squidleyous Maximus
Join Date: Feb 2006
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Cool. thanks for posting this. I did the one for a 5g and a VF 500 but I don't have a 4g so I couldn't do it. We appreciate when users step up and help out for the betterment of all. How long would you say it takes you? I think I can do my 5g in 20 mins or so...
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
This one took me about 1.5 hours. I took my time taking pics and was very slow being my first time changing the oil on this bike. I'd say the next time, it will take me no more than 30 minutes.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Uber Guru
Join Date: Jan 2006
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Nice, you sure there's not a thread on this one? Hmm was so sure, It's cool,
theres' always room for more DIY threads. Good job, I like the write up, Yep only takes a few minutes then oil is draining away. I didn't read you also took the lower left faring off? just an observation comment, no need to take the right faring off either, it sounds like you found that out later. Oh ya one more thing hand tight them filters, those filters have a good O-ring so no need to be over zealous that and same goes for the drain plug, last thing you want is a stripped out plug ![]()
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
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I looked for a 4gen DIY for oil change and did not find it.
one more doesn't hurt anyway. hehe. To answer your questions... I did not take the lower fairing off. I took one screw off to have room to remove the old filter still full of oil. As an average guy, I refused to look at the manual and started by removing the right fairing. It was later than I realized I should have removed the left one. So, no... no need to remove right side fairing. Thanks for the comments.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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while on the subject, anyone know if there is an oil plug with a nipple valve for the VFR? I have one of those in my SUV and all you do is plug a plastic hose to the nipple, turn the valve and let the oil drain in the pan.
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#7 (permalink) |
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LOL, who reads the manual come on now, LOL two mounting bolts, one you got, the other is behind the kick stand and two screws under the chin faring, drops the lower, then its way easy to get to the filter. Just curious, did you find that you only need 3.5 quarts? believe the owners manual says one will need 4. You did the right thing by putting in 3 then start it up then check, seen way to many with way to much oil in the crankcase.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Uber Guru
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I've seen em, not being used on a motorcycle thou, it's IMO way to easy to just drop the plug.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Seeing as I don't rack up the miles like some, I typically take both lowers off and remove the belly pan and check things out, and clean while I'm in there.
Another tip.... A slab of tin foil over the exhaust header keeps your pipes oil free and avoids the stink upon your first warm-up. Honda stratigically placed the header clamp to retain the maximum amount of oil if you don't do this. ![]()
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
I shall not read the manual... I shall not ask for directions... got it. 3.5 quarts was all she needed. Now she is clean (zaino), new oil, chain waxed, etc. She's ready to ride!!!
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#11 (permalink) |
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I pulled right, left and chin farings. I tend to be messy changing oil. I would suggest filling the oil filter before instalation. This will keep the motor from starving for oil when first started.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Nice work, but i won't dare ask what oil you are using!!
$ 15 is SO right about filling the oil filter as much as you can before installation. Also, to avoid dry bearings, crank engine without starting it until red oil light goes off. ![]()
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