Brake Fluid / Clutch fluid change - Sixth Gen

[Gunzer]

I have the service manual and a few ?'s before I attempt to DIY this bit of maintenance.

I plan on using a vacuum device. Going in the proper sequence, I hook up the hose to the first bleeder valve.

Should I squeeze the vacuum handle a few times before loosening the bleeder screw? Once fluid begins to evacuate, I assume it is at this time that I must begin to add additional fluid to the resevoir, yes?

How likely is it that air will be sucked back into the line from around the threads of the bleeder screw? I am under the impression I must maintain vacuum pressure while the bleeder screw is loosened and re tighten this screw while under vacuum so as not to allow air back into the line.

Does the front left and rear caliper need to be removed in order to properly bleed the fluid as the manual suggests?

Are there any trade tips to keeping the drainage hoses firmly secure on the bleed screw nipple? I don't want to spill fluid or loose vacuum pressure in process.

I may be over thinking an otherwise simple procedure but I've never done this before and Mr.Murphy always seems to show up at times like this. I really appreciate anyting you experienced VFR's may have to add that may boost my confidence.

Thank you,

Gunzer

[Joey_Dude]

The most important part of the brake bleeding is that you crack open the brake bleed vale just a little, barely enough for it to start leaking. Try turning it a 1/8th and run the vaccum. If you don't see fluid coming out, keep turning the valve loose a 1/8th turn at a time until you start seeing fluid leaking out.

If you turn the valve too loose then air will keep flowing back in, very annoying.

As for the proper procedure in replacing the fluid, it depends on how dark the old fluid is. If it's dark like guiness beer I recommend sucking all the fluid out completely so the brake lines have no fluid left. You don't want the bad fluid polluting the new fluid. Otherwise if the fluid is just a little dark, like green tea, then you can just fill in the new fluid as the old fluid drains out.

The front brakes are pretty easy but the rear brake, oh boy, you better clear out your whole weekend for that one!

[FJ12rydertoo]

JMO, but I've used the MityVac and it can be more of a pain than it's worth.

If I were changing fluids I would empty the master cylinder, clean it out, refill the master cylinder, then use the brake lever to pump the new fluid through the system and make sure to keep the reservoir filled. This prevents any air from entering the system and spoiling your weekend.

Trying to get all the air out of a regular brake line system can be a real PIA, I would imagine the LBS is worse. That's one of the reasons I've put off my SS brake line install.

[BenTwo]

Gunzer,

I just did my clutch and brake fluid change on an 02 VFR. I used the hand vacuum pump. I could not get it function until I removed the bleeders and wrapped the threads with teflon pipe tape, then is was a snap. Just make sure to add fluid to the reserviors as you draw the fluid out. I did this until fluid came out clear at the bleeder. No need to remove the front calipers, but the rear caliper has to be rotated to access the bleeder on the rear caliper. The hose on my vacuum pump fit tight on the bleeder nipple and stayed on during the process. Just do a search for brake bleeding on this site and there are a few post with information on how to, which I found to be helpful. .

[Gunzer]

Hey Ben,

Before applying the teflon tape, I assume you had to back out the bleeder valve completely first from the cailper housing,yes? Does fluid want to spill out as you remove these bleeder screws?

[BenTwo]

Gunzer,

You are correct I had to remove the bleeders to tape them. I first removed the caps on the reserviors then removed the bleeders. I placed a rag around the caliper, but very little fluid came out, just don't pump the brake or clutch lever while the bleeders are taken off the caliper. Be careful adding fluid to the reserviors, again I placed a rag around the reservior while filling them to protect the paint and plastic parts.

[lostlogic]

I'm going to be doing the same soon... ordered some speed bleeders from wiremybike, hopefully they will simplify the whole process. Anyone used 'em?

[Trize007]

I agree with FJ. Just do it the old fashion way, its faster to me. Vacuums are a pain in the ass...

[BenTwo]

Gunzer,
Try the link below,it has a few pic's and info on brake bleeding. Also there are a few other post about brake bleeding on the site vfrdiscussion.com



VFRD - Ineo - Brake Bleeding VTEC and 5th Generation

[Mac]

Speed Bleeders!
It's the easy way to go. Got mine from Wire My Bike

Mac

[Snafu]

I would start the vaccum first before you open the bleeder valve. Close the valve before you stop the vaccum. I find my mity vac very easy to work with.

[Kobe Diesel]

I just did this earlier this week. I used the pump and hold method on all bleed points with the exception of the front left lower bleed point. This bleed point is part of the link between front and rear. I used the vacuum pump for this instead of pushing the caliper forward to press the master cylinder (for the rear).

I used 0.8L brake fluid, including fluid for clutch - total time for brakes and clutch = 2 hours.

[mello dude]

Originally Posted by Snafu

I would start the vaccum first before you open the bleeder valve. Close the valve before you stop the vaccum. I find my mity vac very easy to work with.

Wow, that sucker's huge....

MD

[NorcalBoy]

If you are completely removing all of the old fluid (which would be the right way to do it) I wouldn't even attempt it without a vacuum assisted bleeding tool. Trying to replace the fluid and then bleeding the air with the lever pump method will be futile.

One at a time, I would crack every bleeder and use the bleeder to remove all of the old fluid. This will ensure that any accumulated water molecules will be removed prior to adding the new fluid. Empty the resevoirs completely, wipe with a clean rag and then blow out the interior with compressed air and wipe again. Try to work as fast as possible so that there is minimal contact between the fluid and the atmosphere. If it is a high humidity day, I would wait until the humidity is as low as possible.

You will have to remove the left caliper as instructed by the manual.

[NorcalBoy]

Originally Posted by Snafu

I would start the vaccum first before you open the bleeder valve. Close the valve before you stop the vaccum. I find my mity vac very easy to work with.

You could suck start a Harley with that thing. Is that some sort of maritial aid?

[Gunzer]

Norcal Boy, I will respectfully disagree as you endorse the necessity of a vacumm device to completely flush the brake and clutch fluids. Pumping the clutch lever or the brake lever while following the proper sequence as outlined in the service manual is all I needed. I needed the help of a friend to pump the rear break lever for me but that was it. Furthermore there was no need to remove the rear caliper.

A tight fitting plastic hose over the bleed screw with a corbin clip for good measure was all the technology needed to get this job done.

On my first attempt air made its way back into the lines. I had plenty of fresh fluid on hand and continued to flush fluid through till there were no bubbles coming through. There was plenty of compression pressure just from working the lever and loosening the bleed screw just enough to force out the old until new clean fluid came through. I spent way more time researching what kind of vacumm pumps I was going to buy when after all, I was not able to get a sufficient vacumm on the screw anyway.

Gunzer

[Kobe Diesel]

Originally Posted by Kobe Diesel

I just did this earlier this week. I used the pump and hold method on all bleed points with the exception of the front left lower bleed point. This bleed point is part of the link between front and rear. I used the vacuum pump for this instead of pushing the caliper forward to press the master cylinder (for the rear).

I used 0.8L brake fluid, including fluid for clutch - total time for brakes and clutch = 2 hours.

For the record, I sucked out the reservoirs and refilled with fresh fluid before bleeding. I used ATE blue, so when mixed with the old fluid, it came out brownish at the bleed points. When it came out blue, that was a good enough flush.