07 VFR ABS Oil Change advice?

[gsdfriendly]

So I got to start the engine break in procedure as per motor mans suggestions for new motorcycles. I have only deviated from it by the amount of miles you should change your oil at. I thought it was after 60 miles but I checked last night and I went to 41 miles. I plan to change the oil for the first time tonight.. What do you guys think of Shell Rotella-t (non-Synth) white bottle. Also are filters for this motorcycle readily available at wall mart?
Also I looked at the maint. manual and it says to use special tool to remove filter.. Any suggestions? Do i need it what should i use.

[PuCaudata]

I, too, am breaking my 07 VFR (non-ABS). I will be using the Royal Purple 10W30 or 40 weight once it reaches about 100 miles.

I haven't sought the oil filter yet. I hope it's easy to find. As far as the tool, I'm waiting for someone to respond to your post so I can find out, too. :-)

[derstuka]

Shell Rotella is mostly designed with large diesel engines in mind I believe. Or am I thinking of something else? Doesn't mean it would not protect your engine, however, it would not be my first choice., and I would be worried about the additives in it. I would just use a quality non-synthetic oil (like Castrol, Mobil, Repsol) that is designed for motorcycles, or at the very least, is a "non-energy conserving" or "non-economy" car oil that may have friction modifiers added which could make your clutch slip. I am not sure if they sell a quality oil filter for Honda's at Wal-Mart. Personally, I would buy the stock Honda one from a dealer for piece of mind.

Oh, and (I have a 5th gen) but I have never needed an oil filter wrench to get my filter off, however, it depends who put it on, and usually from the factory they put that bitch on so tight that it is hard to get off by hand. I could NOT get my Toyota Tacoma's filter off that was put on by the factory when the engine was probably out of the truck. I tried fitler wrenches, straps, bare hands....I tried it all. Had to say "F it" and take it in. I only use my hands (no wrenches) to get the VFR's filter on and off. Make sure to coat the filter lip with some oil so it doen't tear putting it back on.

Ok, I just read up on Shell Rotella...I knew it was for heavy duty diesels, but I didn't know that some motorcyclists were using it

[mello dude]

Guys - look up this last thread as a start. - http://vfrworld.com/forums/maintenan...al-o7-rwb.html

Some people like Rotella - but I'm not a fan of non-motorcycle spec oil, double especially on a break-in bike.

MD

[Lgn001]

I would put at least 400 miles on the motor before changing the oil and filter. The special tool is a "cap wrench" that fits over the end of the oil filter housing. I can tell you on my SV650 that I bought a cap wrench to fit the OEM Suzuki filter, and it did not fit the Fram filter that I bought the next time. I have not changed the filter on the VFR again, but I guess I'll find out if the OEM tool fits a Fram at that point...

Regardless of which oil you chose, motorcycle specific oil is formulated to withstand the high shearing forces of the gears in the transmission. There is much debate over this subject, as you will find out.

[phoneman]

I too recently purchased a new 07' and I am following Motoman's break-in procedure. The more I thought about it the more it made sense. At 25 miles I performed an oil change but not a filter change (didn't have the filter tool) and I can tell you that there was definitely a metallic sheen to the oil. It just makes sense that seating the rings into a honed bore (even though it is a fine hone) will initially produce some metallic particles, plus materials that were not completely cleaned from newly manufactured parts during engine assembly. If you wait until 400 miles or more, my guess is that the oil darkens enough that you cannot see these near microscopic metal particles in the oil. But with clean oil it was very obvious and I'm glad I did it. I just used straight valvoline 10w-40 as suggested to help with the break-in process as opposed to something "slicker" that could actually hurt the process. After 1,500 miles I'll switch to a high quality motorcycle oil.

[dizzy]

As a full time tech for over 25 years...I've done literally thousands of oil changes, and seen plenty of other's work as well. Here's my two cents...

I use the Honda OE cap wrench but it's not cheap...there are some decent aftermarket units available. It won't fit most aftermarket filters, for that I have a strap type wrench. I agree with derstuka...I like the Honda OE filters the best. The worst filter I've seen is the Fram...I don't often see one on a bike that hasn't been "weeping" oil around that chincy square style sealing oring they use.

Don't forget to replace the aluminum sealing washer on the drain plug. The "squish" on it protects the drain plug threads in the engine when you torque it down, as well as assuring a perfect oil seal...and I'm tired of repairing stripped threads, so if you don't know how tight it should be by feel...use a torque wrench.

Oil type? Who knows? There's not much empirical unbiased information on this. I just stick with the manufactures recommendations listed in every owner's manual. I've found that most people aren't comfortable with Honda's recommended 8K mile intervals though (neither am I actually). I think intervals of 2500 (daily commute) to 5000 (touring or trip) miles are reasonable.

Break in? I say break 'em in the way your gonna ride 'em. One stipulation though...Your bike should be fully heat soaked (up to operating temperature) before you investigate the upper reaches of the RPM band. Engines tolerances are not correct when your bike is cold...or luke warm for that matter.

Oil level...don't assume the procedure...check the manual. The VFR's are pretty straightforward, but other models may not be. On the VTX's for example, Honda uses a dry sump crankcase with the storage tank being internal...So there's a special procedure for checking and filling oil.

Changing oil is simple, and there's no reason an owner of reasonable intelligence and motivation can't do it themselves. But it's of utmost importance, so do it right.

[engeng]

has anyone found a way to get to the filter and remove it without breaking all the $3 plastic rivets for the fairings? I haven't tried to R&R the filter with the fairings installed, looked like a messy approach. However, I was disappointed with the plastic rivets and my inability to remove them without them breaking....

[Lgn001]

has anyone found a way to get to the filter and remove it without breaking all the $3 plastic rivets for the fairings? I haven't tried to R&R the filter with the fairings installed, looked like a messy approach. However, I was disappointed with the plastic rivets and my inability to remove them without them breaking....

Do you have an owners manual? It shows how to remove the rivets, and in what sequence to remove them and the retaining bolts. All you need to do is push down on the center of the rivet head until it depresses about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch, and then pull it out. Then you "reset" it by pulling the movable section back out in the opposite direction, past the flush position. It takes too many words to describe...

The best I've come up with, with regard to changing the filter, is removing just the left fairing and the center piece. The center piece is a bit finicky to get back into place, but it is manageable.

I have given up on properly seating the well nuts that are supposed to be pulled up into position into special recesses on the fairing upper mounting position, however, since I can't figure out how to remove the little plastic pieces that extend from the instrument cluster without breaking them. Why manufacturers occasionally take something so straightforward and make it unnecessarily complex is beyond me, but they do.

[pjm204]

all I do is remove the left side fairing....use a socket extension and you dont need to remove the center piece. Takes about 5-10 minutes once you do it a few times...I've done it a couple in the week I have owned the bike. My break in was oil/filter at 200, oil/filter at 600.

[Big3]

Here is a few filters that interchange to a 6th gen

About 2.5 inches long.
• Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.

• Mobil M1-108, about $12.
• Bosch 3300, about $6.

About 3.25 inches long.
• Purolator Pure One PL14610
• Carquest 85356
• Carquest Red B4620 ( carquest filters are made by WIX)
• wix 51358