First timer chain & sprocket swap

[Dudealicious]

so in anticipation of Reg's SLO III this weekend and all the additional miles i'll be putting on my bike, i thought it best to swap out the chain. and while i'm in there, i might as well do the sprockets as well.
surprisingly, the amount of tools required were minimal. there's pretty much only 1 specialized tool and it's the chain breaker/riveting tool. and that only cost abut $40.
thank you soundmaster31 for your "review" of a suitable and capable chain breaker listed on ebay HERE

to start things off, i've never done this before. but i do consider myself a fairly mechanically inclined individual. i've done all the mods on my bike: helibars, sliders (not a fun mod), PCIII, throttlemeister etc...but naturally i'm a little concerned i'll F it up and have to get my bike towed to a mechanic in utter disgrace and watch him laugh at my inability. but at the same time i'm confident that if he can do it, why can't i? what gives him the right to charge me $85/hour for something i can (easily?) do myself?

so off comes what i perceive to be everything that's obstructing my view of the chain and sprockets. BAM, hurdle #1, the damn chain guard is not easily removed. sure there's 2 allen screws in the front and 2 plastic phillips screws in the back, but they're not easily accessible. so i concluded you don't really need to remove the back screws. it's plastic. it bends. problem solved.
moving along i decided it's probably much easier to loosen the front sprocket bolt while the chain is still on. actually i can't really see a way to do it otherwise because that sum-bitch is torqued down with about 40 lbf-ft. so remember kids, remove front sprocket center bolt while old chain is still in tact! i need to access/see the front sprocket. 4 or 5 8mm bolts later, there she is, and ugh, is she ugly.
16,000 miles of crap buildup


after that, it's time to pass the point of no return. removing a pin from the old chain. choose a pin, any pin. doesn't really matter. i chose the flattest one i could find in an effort to not break the pin pushing tool. then just simply follow the directions on your chain breaking tool by aligning the tool's pin dead center with a chain pin and tighten that mofo down like so:

as you can see, i used an adjustable wrench and a ratchet. worked just fine. plenty of leverage.

at first you'll get

then after tightening down a bit

you get


i was so amazed at how easy it was. took such little force and effort.
remove the old chain and sprocket and that sadly displays



this is where your 1 hour chain swap turns into a 2 hour chain swap. no proud viffer would just overlook this buildup of crap and continue on with the install. so, a can of wd-40 and 2 filthy shop rags later, she looks something like

not perfect, but not bad
here's the pile of crap i dug out of there


i guess you could also loosen the 6 rear sprocket bolts with the old chain still on, but i just put the bike on its side stand and used a ratchet and hammer to easily remove those bolts.

once off

the factory sprockets weren't all that bad. a little wear, but not too bad for 16,000 milles

the front sprocket i left at factory 16 tooth. with the rear i went +2 to 45 tooth. they sent me a 112 link chain. i suppose i have the option of using the 112 or cutting it down and using the factory 110. i chose to try out the 112. and if there's excessive stretching, i left myself the option of cutting it down to 110. now using 112 completely makes the little chain adjustment gauge on the side of the chain guard useless, but you just need to remember where it started off and adjust your eye accordingly.

puttin' her back together is just a matter of pressing and riveting the new master link on using the same breaking/riveting tool and viola.
she's done

add "bling" sound here


i hope this thread encourages other do-it-yourselfers to, well, do it yourself.
this rather intimidating repair was actually quite simple and allows you access to areas of your bike normally not seen.
besides, do you honestly think your mechanic would clean all that crap out of your front sprocket? hell no!
enjoy

[KC-10 FE]

Having just changed my chain last week, I would like to chime in if I may.

What did your chain kit cost?

For everyone that has a device that will do so, just cut the freaking chain off. I used an air grinder. Start to finish, it took about 18 seconds to cut the chain. The only precaution I would add is to place a towel or even better, tin foil in between the sparks & your bike. Large bolt cutters work just as well from what people tell.

A torque wrench is your friend when performing this operation.

KC-10 FE out...

[Joey_Dude]

I like the bling-bling!!!

[Dudealicious]

Having just changed my chain last week, I would like to chime in if I may.

What did your chain kit cost?

For everyone that has a device that will do so, just cut the freaking chain off. I used an air grinder. Start to finish, it took about 18 seconds to cut the chain. The only precaution I would add is to place a towel or even better, tin foil in between the sparks & your bike. Large bolt cutters work just as well from what people tell.

A torque wrench is your friend when performing this operation.

i got my kit online through Sprocket Center [LINK]
very friendly service
and received it in the mail 2 days later

sure you can use what ever you want to get the old chain off, but the problem is how do you plan to rivet the new one on? i just find it easier in an all-in-one tool.

[soundmaster31]

lol @ BLING!!!!

[midias]

Having just changed my chain last week, I would like to chime in if I may.

What did your chain kit cost?

For everyone that has a device that will do so, just cut the freaking chain off. I used an air grinder. Start to finish, it took about 18 seconds to cut the chain. The only precaution I would add is to place a towel or even better, tin foil in between the sparks & your bike. Large bolt cutters work just as well from what people tell.

A torque wrench is your friend when performing this operation.

KC-10 FE out...

A 7.5A dewalt angle grinder with a cut off wheel works really good too.

[KC-10 FE]

i got my kit online through Sprocket Center [LINK]
very friendly service
and received it in the mail 2 days later

sure you can use what ever you want to get the old chain off, but the problem is how do you plan to rivet the new one on? i just find it easier in an all-in-one tool.

True dat, true dat. The kit I bought came with a new master link. I've also been led to believe you're never supposed to re-use a master link.

Any comments on the new gear ratio? That's the only reason I didn't get the kit you have. I wanted the stock ratio.

This is the kit I used. I got it from the local dealer I get all my parts from. They give me a Military & MSF discount. I have the Motion Pro chain tool kit. It's OK but certainly there are better products out there.

http://motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0058/
http://www.sprocketcenter.com/p/3105...honda-vfr.html

KC-10 FE out...

[Dudealicious]

well, cruising home from work yesterday, there's a nice stretch of uphill road into west hollywood i usually like to go from 30 to 100 as fast as i can for no apparent reason just past a 4-way intersection. as usual i was in 2nd gear doing the speed limit, then i gunned it and to my surprise my front tire was way up in the air. something very new for this activity. then i remembered, oh yeah, +2 on the rear sprocket. so it certainly does give you a nice boost of power at slower speeds. i haven't taken it on the freeway just yet, so i don't know how it will affect my higher speed RPM's.
i'll certainly know come friday morning when i meet up with the SD crew on the PCH.

just when i was at the point where i could tell how fast i was going and what RPM's i was at just by the vibration, i had to go and switch it all up.

[KC-10 FE]

If you could, after a few fill ups, please post a before & after MPG analysis.

My sprockets looked just like yours did. The front was rusted in the same manner. I have no explanation for the rust. Cheap material used by the sprocket maker?

I had an equivalent amount of gunk in the countershaft cover. I was contemplating doing photos but I would have ruined my camera.

You probably did a much better job than I would have.

KC-10 FE out...

[soundmaster31]

beware the heavy wrist syndrome now...

YMMV now lol.

[KC-10 FE]

beware the heavy wrist syndrome now...

YMMV now lol.

SInce you have a 5th Gen with the 45t rear, how much did it affect your MPG? I am consistently in the upper 40's & would like to keep it there. I also wouldn't mind a little boost to the fun.

KC-10 FE out...

[soundmaster31]

SInce you have a 5th Gen with the 45t rear, how much did it affect your MPG? I am consistently in the upper 40's & would like to keep it there. I also wouldn't mind a little boost to the fun.

KC-10 FE out...

First note: I'm huge 6'4" 345lbs so your mileage will very

I was getting 40-45mpg average(mixed driving - but mostly rural and highway) with k&n air filter(came with my bike), stock exhaust, and running the 17/45 sprocket setup. I believe it was about 200rpm difference. It's all in the wrist and how you drive though... if you kick it into 6th gear as much as you can and granny shift on your commutes you won't notice much of a difference.


Now I have a PCIII USB and gave up miles per gallon for smiles per gallon. You can always zero the fuel map with your laptop on a touring trip(to save mpg) and load the custom map when you drop your gear off and hit the fun twisites. I've got all the way down to 30mpg using the pc3 and running very aggressively and of course barely made it to 4th gear much...so yeah. ymmv depending on your wrist.

[KC-10 FE]

First note: I'm huge 6'4" 345lbs so your mileage will very

I was getting 40-45mpg average(mixed driving - but mostly rural and highway) with k&n air filter(came with my bike), stock exhaust, and running the 17/45 sprocket setup. I believe it was about 200rpm difference.


Now I have a PCIII USB and gave up miles per gallon for smiles per gallon. You can always zero the fuel map with your laptop on a touring trip(to save mpg) and load the custom map when you drop your gear off and hit the fun twisites.

What was the MPG difference before the PC & after the PC?

Apologizes to the OP for the threadjack.

KC-10 FE out...

[soundmaster31]

What was the MPG difference before the PC & after the PC?

Apologizes to the OP for the threadjack.

KC-10 FE out...

It quite honestly really depends on how you have it mapped. The "stock exhaust / stock air filter" map available from the PC website won't get you anywhere near stock mileage. It's way too rich. I've got anywhere from 30-40ish mpg(depending on the ride) but I haven't been babying it all to see the max mileage I can get out of the custom map. I also have a Staintune exhaust now as well, but not sure how much that affects the mileage as it went on at the same time as the PCIII.

I'll try driving around babying it on some long trips when it gets warm enough out and I'll try running around with the zero map as well and compare some MPG numbers for y'all in separate thread. Give me a month or two though.

[Dudealicious]

well, got it on the freeway today, and noticed about a +200 RPM difference. not too bad. although, on surface roads i noticed i wasn't shifting between 2nd & 3rd as much. very nice improvement. should come in nice and handy in the twisties.

[thorrinn123]

i just put on my new stock front and rear sprockets on a 91 and have a question on adjusting the rear hub? I have moved it fully forward so when i put on my new chain ( i have to remove some links it is too big) should i leave it fully forward so i have some adjustment as it stretches? or move it back a bit? make the chain fit as it is or move the hub back a bit and make the chain fit?

[soundmaster31]

i just put on my new stock front and rear sprockets on a 91 and have a question on adjusting the rear hub? I have moved it fully forward so when i put on my new chain ( i have to remove some links it is too big) should i leave it fully forward so i have some adjustment as it stretches? or move it back a bit? make the chain fit as it is or move the hub back a bit and make the chain fit?

It depends on what the stock size chain is and if you modified the sprockets. Someone else can chime in here...

[emon07]

Hey great job and really nice cleanup - I did my wheel and swingarm bearings last year and plan to do my chain and sprockets when it gets a little warmer - Your description and pics are a great help - Thanks!!!!

[thorrinn123]

well i know it isn't a stock length chain put it on last nite and it is too long so i know i will have to remove some links....just curious if i leave the adjustment fully forward to allow for adjustments later on....

[thorrinn123]

question about the chain it comes with some sort of grease on it do you clean that off and then lube it with chain lube/ gear oil?

[soundmaster31]

question about the chain it comes with some sort of grease on it do you clean that off and then lube it with chain lube/ gear oil?

I'll answer your question with a question: Do you want that protective grease all over your bike or on a rag?


Once the chain heats up, that stuff will melt like butter and fling everywhere. Wipe her down good to get all the factory grease off and apply a good aftermarket chain lube. I prefer Maxima Chain Wax. Follow the directions and it won't fling off (I usually let my chain set over night for it to set up good, or at least try to let the chain and bike all cool down to ambient air temperature for about an hour before riding it if possible.)


Other decent lubes include Bel-Ray and one named PJ something. Someone else can chime in on that one.


You can use gear oil if you want...but that's messy as hell. Exact same reason I'll never use an auto oiler as well. Forget that crap. I can clean and lube my chain like clockwork since it's easy and there's no excuse not to.

[Dudealicious]

yes. what he said.
remove that factory crap and apply your own.
chain wax is the bomb-diggity
very low fling

[bitterpil]

I was interested in going up +2 in the rear when I replace the chain and sprockets this summer. In doing my research on the subject it is recommended to ad a speedo healer when you change the gearing. So your mileage and speed will be accurately displayed.

Did you add or have a speedo healer"?


BTW. Great pics. Thanks for taking the time to document your process and share.

[thorrinn123]

what do you find the best to remove the factory grease? WD-40 on a rag?

[soundmaster31]

I was interested in going up +2 in the rear when I replace the chain and sprockets this summer. In doing my research on the subject it is recommended to ad a speedo healer when you change the gearing. So your mileage and speed will be accurately displayed.

Did you add or have a speedo healer"?


BTW. Great pics. Thanks for taking the time to document your process and share.

I went +2 on the rear and I bought a speedo healer BUT have never installed it. The inaccuracy of the factory speedo error combined with the sprocket gearing error comes out at nearly 10% high. 80mph indicated is really 72mph. I verified it with my GPS and the gearing calculator on speedo healer's website. So if you don't want to spend $110 on the Speedo Healer it's fine. If you don't want to do the simple math in your head as your riding go ahead and buy one, they work great and are easy to install. I just feel that having a higher speedo reading tends to keep me out of trouble more often than not.

what do you find the best to remove the factory grease? WD-40 on a rag?

Kerosene. Wet a rag with some kerosene to clean off the chain and use a tooth brush for hard to reach areas. Be sure to not disturbed the o-rings. The last thing you want to do is get degreaser /solvent in there! Alot of people on here say it's ok or not ok to use WD-40. Some say it's kerosene with fragrance, others say it's too harsh of a solvent on the o-rings. I'll be safe and stick to the manufacturers recommendation of kerosene. You don't need much anyway. I've had 8 ounces of kerosene last me about 3 chain cleanings.


I believe the dealers sell some aftermarket aersol cleaners as well. Those work too. Just make sure you get one that is safe for "ALL O-rings". More specifically I believe they are of "Buna-N (Nitrile) O-Rings" type.

[Comicus]

Hey great write up you've inspired me to do my own sprockets. I think I'm going to do -1/+2...has anyone used that setup?

[CrazyInNYC]

I went +2 on the rear and I bought a speedo healer BUT have never installed it. The inaccuracy of the factory speedo error combined with the sprocket gearing error comes out at nearly 10% high. 80mph indicated is really 72mph. I verified it with my GPS and the gearing calculator on speedo healer's website. So if you don't want to spend $110 on the Speedo Healer it's fine. If you don't want to do the simple math in your head as your riding go ahead and buy one, they work great and are easy to install. I just feel that having a higher speedo reading tends to keep me out of trouble more often than not.
<snip>

The change in gearing will affect the accuracy of both your speedometer and odometer.

Without correcting back to stock error, you'll be racking up miles at a faster rate than you've actually traveled.

Correcting to an accurate speedometer will cause your odometer to read low.

Of course an inaccurate odometer will make for inaccurate mpg calculations.

[soundmaster31]

The change in gearing will affect the accuracy of both your speedometer and odometer.

Without correcting back to stock error, you'll be racking up miles at a faster rate than you've actually traveled.

Correcting to an accurate speedometer will cause your odometer to read low.

Of course an inaccurate odometer will make for inaccurate mpg calculations.

Yes, the accuracy is affected. Yes, they rack up faster.


I lose you when you say that correcting the speedometer to be spot on causes your odometer to read low. This means that the manufacturer would account for speedo error in calculating the odometer reading...WHY WOULD THEY DO THAT?

Why isn't the odometer reading directly correlated to speedometer reading?

[KC-10 FE]

For what it's worth, I replaced the chain & sprocket on the Hawk GT in 2005. I never bothered to remove the factory applied chain snot. 4 years & 3500 miles later, the original chain snot is still there, the chain is still lubed just fine. When I changed the VFR chain, all I did it spray some white lith/moly on the sprockets & left it at that. Yesterday, I put 180 miles on the VFR & 40 on the Hawk. Trust me, it will not fly off.

By all means, use whatever you want. For cleaning, nothing is going to beat kerosene. It is recommended by every chain maker that I can tell, DID, RK, EK, etc... Just make sure you clean it off completely. Reason for this is the kerosene will act as a solvent to any thing you apply. It will eat the moly/lith lube, stickers, paint, anything.

KC-10 FE out...

[CrazyInNYC]

Yes, the accuracy is affected. Yes, they rack up faster.


I lose you when you say that correcting the speedometer to be spot on causes your odometer to read low. This means that the manufacturer would account for speedo error in calculating the odometer reading...WHY WOULD THEY DO THAT?

Why isn't the odometer reading directly correlated to speedometer reading?

I probably can't explain it very well, but here's a shot...

The odometer and speedometer share a common source. The speedometer is designed to be optimistic. The odometer is designed to read true.

A speedohealer sits between the source and the destination manipulating the signal for the desired effect. Because they are directly correlated, reducing one reduces the other.

HTH


EDIT:


To your point, the manufacturer purposefully designs the speedometer to read high. I don't think they account for speedometer error when calculating odomoter reading, they build in the speedometer error. Probably for liability reasons. Imagine the lawsuits if instead of being spot on, the speedometer read a little low. It's your fault I was speeding... It's your fault I got pulled over for speeding and found to be drunk/high/wanted...