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Old 04-22-2009, 09:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Cleaning carbs

This is a gen 2 that has been sitting since 03 and would not start and was full of .........a liquid that was once gasoline.The first pic is the bike .Second is of the hose to carb in gas can .The third is of the plug to fuel pump being jumped to battery and flushing fuel system dry.The back blue wire goes to positive and green to ground and just pump all the bad fuel out.


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Old 04-22-2009, 09:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Air box

Remove the air box and disconnect the choke cable (one phillips head screw)pic one .Remove throttle cables(two phillips head screws) pic two,and tuck cable out of your way.Loosen all four boots(eight clamps total) pic three and four.
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Old 04-22-2009, 09:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You need to expand this tutorial to spread it out over, like, two or three pages.
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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yes

I am afraid it will be
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Removal

This is a Claifornia bike with stock smog crap so I will not go into the changes from one to the next. I f you have lines hooked up mark them as needed but the really only go on one way.The next pic is a good place to pry (gently) on the carbs to remove and these were a bitch . Carbs are off in next.The boots may come off with carbs and they have a top and bottom to them so if you reinstall on engine take note that they are on correctly.
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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To the truck

Carbs are off and must move to the truck for the chemicals and air. Nephew showed up to ride DRZ and others with beer to distract me.....Must focus.
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Slides

First is of slide being removed. Do not mix slides ,they need go back in the same bores they have been in. Do not get chemicals on these as diaphrams may swell and that would be very poor. If they are dirty wash them in soap and water and dry completely .
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:47 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Bowls

Remove the bowls, pic one.Inside is a float and jets, not really a whole lot in pic two.Thank god DRZ is back and not toast.
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Old 04-22-2009, 10:53 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Jets

Remove the main jet (pic one) and then pilot (pic two).Pic three is main with tube and long thin one is pilot.Use a good screwdriver and try not to damage jets.Stock main is 118 and stock pilot is 38 both have a k emblem on them.
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Old 04-22-2009, 11:04 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Floats

Remove float pins and remove float and needle. Unscrew seat and inspect screen on seat, if you have a rust issue in your tank , crap will build up here and cause you problems. This one was pretty clean but did have a little crap in it.
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Old 04-22-2009, 11:16 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Cleaning

At this point cleaning the jets out is whats on your plate. The mains on this bike were ok but cleaned them ,the pilots were toast and required solvent and a scrub out with a strand of wire.I pulled a single strand of wire and poked it through the gunk and blew air through it until cleared and washed with solvent.
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Old 04-22-2009, 11:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Cleaning,....MORE

Once the jets are clean , clean the carb bodies and blow threw bores and try to remove any gunk that may be in them. Some may have corrosion problems and you can only do your best.
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Old 04-22-2009, 11:35 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Assemble

At this point assemble carbs as they were taken apart.In pic one the air fuel mixture screw is locked in place by tab on bowl. If you swap the bowls around the locks will be on the other side of the air screw and you can adjust your air fuel mixture screw willie nillie now.
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Old 04-22-2009, 11:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The install

This is a bitch the first five hudred times. Install the front carbs and tilt rear boots off engine to help mate with bad angle on carbs and attempt to show it some lovin.It may take more than one attempt and maybe a beer or ten. Does get easier after you do it a few times.
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Old 04-23-2009, 12:02 AM   #15 (permalink)
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running

At this point tighten tour clamps and install cables and hoses in reverse order.Install tank and add gas.Jump fuel pump as you did earlier to pump out bad fuel and charge fuel system.At this point you may have a problem.It is common if they have sat for a while that the seals will leak and gas like a sprinkler (this bike did and the last two did as well) dont panic! Let it sit for thirty minutes or so and the seals will swell up and all should be fine. Gasket kits are wildly expensive and it will seal back up in most cases.Start it.This one as all before fired right up.If you dont charge fuel system you will crank on it till the battery is dead as pump only fires once per revolution.I chucked a few pics in for shits and giggles at the end.I do hope this helps.
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Old 04-23-2009, 12:06 AM   #16 (permalink)
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gens

This is the same for gen1 through 4...almost no change

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Old 09-16-2009, 06:20 PM   #17 (permalink)
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This answers all of my questions thanks toe cutter. If i cant do it myself i will take up the offer but as of now i dont have a truck.

The one thing i didnt get was how to pump the old gas out. I took out my carbs without emptying the tank or the reserve and it was a mess.
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Old 09-16-2009, 06:29 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOE CUTTER View Post
This is a gen 2 that has been sitting since 03 and would not start and was full of .........a liquid that was once gasoline.The first pic is the bike .Second is of the hose to carb in gas can .The third is of the plug to fuel pump being jumped to battery and flushing fuel system dry.The back blue wire goes to positive and green to ground and just pump all the bad fuel out.
Never leave a carb in carb cleaner all night.
There are coatings on the casting that prevent gas from migrating by capillairy action and also there are internal brass plugs that can come unglued.

The only thing a motorcycle carb usually needs is new float needle and
And thats about it. Once in a while a new diaphram and slide.
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Old 09-16-2009, 06:31 PM   #19 (permalink)
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fuel pump

Jump the fuel pump off the battery and pump the old fuel out.Add new and run new fuel to flush system, just unplug the fuel pump and pump wires to battery and run new fuel until it comes out clean, wont take much.
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Old 09-17-2009, 12:25 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Good how to write up. I'm going to clean my VFR700 Carbs before reassembly of painted bodywork. I havn't done any V4 Carbs but have done my share of I4s. I ordered BOWL O-RINGS (4) for $29 shipped here's link Bowl Gaskets

I was hopefull I would run across some Carb Kits deal but it's not happening. I was real lucky and got all (4) OEM Full Kits on Ebay for my CBR1100 for $13 shipped. Havn't needed them but it's 11 years old someday they'll be handy.
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Old 09-17-2009, 12:36 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Good how to write up. I'm going to clean my VFR700 Carbs before reassembly of painted bodywork. I havn't done any V4 Carbs but have done my share of I4s. I ordered BOWL O-RINGS (4) for $29 shipped here's link Bowl Gaskets

I was hopefull I would run across some Carb Kits deal but it's not happening. I was real lucky and got all (4) OEM Full Kits on Ebay for my CBR1100 for $13 shipped. Havn't needed them but it's 11 years old someday they'll be handy.
I have never had to replace a float bowl O ring. Even when the float bowls were just held on with a spring clip. Were your float bowls leaking?
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Old 09-17-2009, 01:00 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOE CUTTER View Post
This is a gen 2 that has been sitting since 03 and would not start and was full of .........a liquid that was once gasoline.The first pic is the bike .Second is of the hose to carb in gas can .The third is of the plug to fuel pump being jumped to battery and flushing fuel system dry.The back blue wire goes to positive and green to ground and just pump all the bad fuel out.
damn it boy why was is sitting up for 6 years?? hell just for the 3-4 months of winter i drain gas and add stabil to about half gallon and start bike once a month...........................................
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Old 09-17-2009, 01:57 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donald branscom View Post
I have never had to replace a float bowl O ring. Even when the float bowls were just held on with a spring clip. Were your float bowls leaking?
No leakes but I don't want to take a chance it's 23 years old and was in storage over 20 years, for $30 it's not a bad investment. It runs fine but I want to remove the lo speed needle tabs and check float levels, clean the slides, jets etc.
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Old 09-17-2009, 02:02 PM   #24 (permalink)
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awsome write up Tony
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Old 09-20-2009, 04:19 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Thanks for the write up. Ill be doing this X3 when my "barn find" shipment arrives next week.
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:36 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Some things do not get planned

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damn it boy why was is sitting up for 6 years?? hell just for the 3-4 months of winter i drain gas and add stabil to about half gallon and start bike once a month...........................................
The bike belongs to a friend of mine that was injured and the bike was not on the list of things to be concerned about until lately when he thought he may be able to ride again.
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Old 09-23-2009, 05:01 PM   #27 (permalink)
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When you say it will leak, where does the gas leak from?
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Old 10-23-2009, 10:57 AM   #28 (permalink)
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this is a little old ...but the gas leaks from the O rings that are on the plastic tubes in between the carbs.... Mine did it for about a minute then I let it sit while I was pissed off.. when I came back an hour later...no leaks...they swelled op and sealed..
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Old 10-23-2009, 11:01 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Nice write up too... word of advice/experience DON"T beat on the carbs with a rubber mallet to get them to go on to the boots..you will break them.
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Old 10-23-2009, 11:01 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Tubes

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this is a little old ...but the gas leaks from the O rings that are on the plastic tubes in between the carbs.... Mine did it for about a minute then I let it sit while I was pissed off.. when I came back an hour later...no leaks...they swelled op and sealed..
That has been my experience as well.......they will seal most times if just left to sit for a bit.
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