6th Gen front suspension pre-load adjustment

[Michael D]

Was fairly happy with the front setup that was on the bike when I bought it so had not made any changes. I've reached the point that I would like to stiffen up the front but would appreciate some input before I get too far.

The manual lists a standard position in which the slots are straight up (or forward, if you wish). The angle of the slots after they had been adjusted by the previous owner were not equal, so wondered whether they started out equal. Figured that I would return things to standard and work forward from there, but after more than a full rotation I had not reached a stop.

Is there way of knowing you have reached that standard position?I'm assuming that I'm simply pushing down a threaded device and that if the settings on either fork are slightly off it's not the end of the world, but would like to start from zero and work up from there.

[squirrelman]

Count the number of turns till the adjustment is screwed IN fully ( clockwise) to return to present (your zero now) setting later. Exact screw slot orientation is not important.

Count # of turns between fully IN and fully OUT and work from the middle setting, then try more or less .......until you become aware that you may need aftermarket springs.

[NorcalBoy]

Although this is likely to cause complete confusion, adjusting the preload does little, to nothing, to affect the actual stiffness of the suspension. The actual spring rate cannot be changed without changing the spring itself.

[jasonsmith]

Michael you want to set up your "sag". Google that and there are some good directions and videos that show how to do it. The sag initially will be set by your preload on your front AND rear suspension. The more preload the less sag. The sag number represents the difference from no load on your suspension to it being loaded with you and your gear in riding position. Some say race bikes need to be in the 20's mm and street in the 30's mm. Everyone is different with the numbers that they prefer. I'm about 230-240lbs with gear. The max sag (turned in all the way) that I can get out of the front is about 46-48mm. Too soft for my liking. If your sag is the same in the front and rear "they" say your bike is neutral. Our local shop here likes to set up 10mm less sag in the rear (more preload). That makes the bike much more sensitive. I like about 3-4 more turns (ABS - external adjuster) in the rear. Don't know what that gives me but the bike feels stable yet responsive.

Edit:

Here's a good video...

http://www.onthethrottle.com/content/view/73/40/

[jasonsmith]

Although this is likely to cause complete confusion, adjusting the preload does little, to nothing, to affect the actual stiffness of the suspension. The actual spring rate cannot be changed without changing the spring itself.

My understanding is that when you change your preload all it does is increase the initial force exerted by the spring therefore increasing the bikes ride height, spring rate stays the same. Am I right?

[Michael D]

Thanks for all of the responses.

Figured that the spring rate of a compressed spring is higher than an uncompressed one, but I can see that all it might do is change the sag. Too bad because it looks like new springs may then be the way to go.

[NorcalBoy]

My understanding is that when you change your preload all it does is increase the initial force exerted by the spring therefore increasing the bikes ride height, spring rate stays the same. Am I right?

Yes, JS, the spring rate stays the same and it is a ride height adjustment. (Hello, BTW )