87 VFR 700 carb synching tips wanted

[vfrf2]

I'm getting ready to start the bike for the first time since removing the carbs and cleaning them. I have about another hour or so before I'm ready to start the bike. Valves are adjusted and within spec.

Anyway, I'm looking for tips on synching my carbs. Using a MotionPro manometer. I have an 87 700 with the CA emissions. Just wondering if there might be any tips to pass along?

Thanks!

[captb]

I did mine last week. easy job but I didn't have my remote adjuster. I cut a oven mit in half and laid it under the carbs. I had a socket I used with a tee thru it, just matched the front carbs then the rears (after warm up) kept the idle at about 1200 rpm. Tank was on but lower fairings off. I didn't do the pilot screews since I was going thru emissions I left them all at 2.5 turns out, went right thru the smog test and it runs excellent.

[TOE CUTTER]

It is quite the pain in the ass. I have a 90 degree remote swivel thingy I made just for this disaster. Out side of that just take your time and have a beer or ten .

[squirrelman]

Rev the bike a few times after each screw adjustment to be sure the throttle linkages have settled into the new position.

[vfrf2]

Thanks guys, I'm dealing with other fuel system issues right now though. Once they are addressed I should be able to move forward with synching.

[TOE CUTTER]

Post up with problem. Gen 2 is my thing.

[Dukiedook]

Hey Toe, do you have a pic of that tool you use?

[vfrf2]

My new petcock and fuel relay finally came in. I'm getting ready to tackle it this afternoon as along as everything goes well.

By the way, what is the magic tool you guys used to do the carb synch with? I've got a decent tool assortment, but may not have something to turn the adjustment screws with. I'm hooked up on the carb synchronizer...have a Motion Pro.

[dizzy]

I use a Snap-on ninety degree tool with a knob adjuster and a quarter inch bit. For bits I use a 7mm quarter inch socket, and sometimes a flat blade quarter inch socket. You can buy similar tools from nearly any tool distributor...I would bet Motion pro makes just such a thing.

When you're turning those screws, go a little (quarter turn at most) at a time, snap the throttle (good point Squirrelman), let it settle, check and adjust your idle to keep at spec, then continue on. When you're all done go through again to 'touch' it up...by this time you'll probably be turning the adjusters a sixteenth of a turn.

Your idle speed adjuster IS the synch adjustment for one of the carbs (don't remember which). But when you adjust THAT carb, the linkage is made to move all the throttle plates as well. So...it works pretty well to try to match the others to that base carb.

[Dukiedook]

Good point Dizzy, if you only checked two carbs at once captb, odds are your your carburetors are not synched properly. You have to be able to monitor the vacuum in all four carbs at the same time, one adjustment to one carb affects them all.

[captb]

I used the four carbstix but adusted the fronts first then the rears all came out level.

[vfrf2]

Again, thanks guys. I'm planning to do it in the am.

[vfrf2]

CA emissions. Lines on the right side of the bike, the ones that go into the intake ports. What to do with them when synching? Not worry about them or plug them during the synch process?

[vfrf2]

CA emissions. Lines on the right side of the bike, the ones that go into the intake ports. What to do with them when synching? Not worry about them or plug them during the synch process?

[vfrf2]

What a f***ing PITA!!!!! The front screw doesn't seem to wanna turn. Really pissing me off...

[dizzy]

The emissions stuff isn't going to make much difference. Leave it plugged in.

Turn the bike off and have an assistant hold the throttle open slightly, sometimes you can then get a better angle on the screw. Also, it takes some pressure off the screw 'cause the linkage isn't resting on the idle stop.