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Timeframe: expect at least a few hours the first time
Skill level: average wrench
Cursing level needed: Sailor
What you will need:
1. Means of either jacking up your bike or hanging it to remove front tire. For mine, I used a multi-million dollar hoist, otherwise known as ratchet tie-downs from K-Mart ($15).
2. Standard/Metric tool set ( I use one of the prepacked Craftsman sets which works really well)
3. First-aid kit if you follow my example...(just kidding, sort of)
4. Bead breaker (see article for a picture of my million dollar setup)
5. 2 tire tools (less than $10 ea at most shops if you use the small ones)
6. Valve core wrench (around $3 at NAPA)
7. Balance tool (I used Marc Parnes balancer available online at marcparnes.com for around $135)
8. Jackstands or other device to suspend tire levelly between (see article)
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Step 1: Get front end off the ground and remove the front tire. I loosened the necessary bolts before taking the wheel off the ground. Getting the wheel off is relatively easy. Take off the front fender(4 hex bolts). I took off the right caliper (2-12mm bolts) and hung it from a piece of wire so it wasn't hanging by the brake line. Loosen the 2 pinch bolts at the bottom front of the left fork tube (12mm). Remove the axle(22mm)
Here you see my multi-million dollar hoist system, but I have since learned that the bike can be jacked from underneath to achieve the same thing.
Step 2: Once you have the wheel off, you can go ahead and remove the side collars (they may have fallen off pulling the axle) and the discs. I waited to take mine off until after I broke the bead on the old tire then thought better of it and decided next time, I'd take them off first for safety. They come off simply by using a hex wrench. No worries there. Also remove the old weights.
Step 3: Take out the valve core using (you guessed it) the valve core wrench to let the air out. Move on over to your handy-dandy bead breaker. See my multi-million dollar setup below.
You'll note in the photo my discs are still on, so I used 2x's underneath to keep them off the ground. Use the lever the break the bead on both sides and all the way around.
Step 4: Remove the tire. I used 2 short tire tools and cut a piece of hose to protect the paint on my rim while wrestling around with the tire. You can see it here in the pic.
Step 5: Clean the rim, you can use soapy water to make the new tire slide on a little better. Line up the painted mark on the tire with the valve stem and put the new tire on. This should put it roughly in balance, but we'll get it better in a little bit. Make sure the directional arrows all match up correctly on tire and rim. I use the bead breaker for most of the installation of the new tire exept the very last bit. That part gets tight and if you slip you get one of these...
Guess you could say I have blood and sweat and curse words in this installation.Ouch!
Step 6: Drink a beer to recover from step 5. Put the discs back on just like they were before. Remove any stickers from the tire. Put the valve core back in and air the tire up to set the bead. I AIRED THEM UP TO ABOUT 60-70 PSI and heard two pops. Then I aired them down to 32 PSI. Put the valve cap back on. Balance the tire... Here's a picture of the balancer without a tire so you can see how I set it up.
And here's a picture of the balancer with a wheel on it:
Give the wheel a little turn in the normal direction of travel. When it stops use chalk to mark the top, this is the lightest point of the tire. Add a weight to this spot as close to the center of the rim as possible. See photo:
This is one I removed, but it gives you the idea. You can also use the sticky weights that cost about $2 a strip at the shop. After the weight is applied move the tire to the 3 o'clock position and see if it stays or just slightly moves. If the weight goes back up to the top, you may need to add another. If the weight falls down, try less weight. I never got mine perfect, I just got it to where it would just move a little and called it a day. I have had the tires up to 140 mph with no tire wobble noted.
Step 7: Look how pretty that new tire is:
Remount the tire. Make sure it's going the right direction. I had to go ahead and loosen the left brake caliper so I could move it around because I was scuffing my rim trying to fit it in. The steps are basically reverse of what you already did so I'm gonna skip them as this is getting long already.
Step 8: Depending the number of beers it took you to get past step 5, it is probably time for a ride! Make sure everything is tightened to proper torque (axle 43 ft-lbs, pinch bolts 16 ft-lbs, brake caliper nuts 23 ft-lbs) then hit it. I checked mine by letting go of the handlebars at 80 and coasting down to 30. My line was straight and there was no wobble. You might prefer a safer method, but this worked for me. Hopefully, your first tire change requires less first aid than mine!
_____________________________________________________Reg71 - Central Coast, CA98 VFR 800 - 5G Brotherhood
Reg, are you sure that the front tire is installed in the right direction?
I've noticed that the Dunlops Qualifiers, Avons and Michelin Pilot Race tires have the tread drawing towards the center as opposed to away from the center. It seems the eopposite of what you would want.
I can't see the rotation arrow on the tire but the rim is visible. It looks backwards from what I have seen based on the tread direction.
I change my own as well and it does extract some meat from time to time. The Avons and Dunlops are relatively easy compared to the Pilot Race which were soooooooo stiff, it was a battle. I went well beyond the sailor curse levels to O.C.C. levels but did get er done.
Jethro911_Kemptville Ontario_1998 VFR800
" You can teach a monkey to ride a bike but what is he gonna do when the chain falls off"

ARRRRRRRRRRRRRGHHHHHHH! I think you are right. I went back out and looked. Shit! I got the rear on right but got the f-in front on wrong! Damn, Damn Damn. Well, I can't change it right now. Shit. Well I guess I'll get real good at it before long... Crapola. Well, thanks for telling me... dammit.... I even put in the article to watch for that. Shit! damn damn damn damn.....Originally Posted by jethro911
_____________________________________________________Reg71 - Central Coast, CA98 VFR 800 - 5G Brotherhood
Sorry, I hate to float a turd in your punch bowl like that!
I only noticed because I think the tread should face the other way and I noticed that yours looked like I would install it if there were no arrows.
Nasty finger pic, BTDT a few times, hurts like hell for a few minutes and then your back in the game. My wife still can't understand how I can be bleeding one minute and it looks half healed an hour later with no bandage. Must be a mechanics defense mechanism I guess.
Later Dude.....
Jethro911_Kemptville Ontario_1998 VFR800
" You can teach a monkey to ride a bike but what is he gonna do when the chain falls off"

you know what's weird is that I looked at the tread again this morning and it looks like it goes the same as the rear. Now the arrow on the rear that says rear is pointing correctly. Now this makes me think it matches since the tread for the front and rear would leave a print going the same direction. I'm confused as hell about it now. It's rides awesome and looks right when I look at it. When I wake up this afternoon, I'll try to get pics of both tires on the bike so you can look at them and help me straighten this out...Originally Posted by jethro911
_____________________________________________________Reg71 - Central Coast, CA98 VFR 800 - 5G Brotherhood
The front tire is primarily loaded while braking, while the rear tire is primarily loaded while accelerating. These forces are in opposite directions and that is why the tread patterns on many makes of tire seem to point in opposite directions when the tires are mounted with the correct orientations. It is important to get the orientation corrected, otherwise the splices in the tire's carcass will be improperly loaded and prone to premature failure.Originally Posted by reg71

Ah, well that explains the tread then... Maybe you can answer my next question, can I just take the rim off turn it around or do I need to take the tire all the way off the rim and rebalance?Originally Posted by Arion
_____________________________________________________Reg71 - Central Coast, CA98 VFR 800 - 5G Brotherhood
On my '95 the offset on the wheel is made with different size spacers on the axle. Theoretically, I think it'd be possible to do a 180 and reverse the spacers, but I have never tried it. The sweep on your cast spokes would be backward....
If it were mine, I'd bite the bullet and do it over. The balance should be close if not dead-on if you do a perfect flip with the tire on the rim. You could run a perpendicular tape line from bead to bead on the rim, mark the tire with a grease pencil/marker/etc. and hit the same spot on the other side.
Watch that finger this time!
You could turn the rim around as a temporary solution, but I agree that it is preferable to remove and remount the tire. The wheel is directional because, like the tire, it is designed to sustain loading primarily in one direction. Otherwise, it would have to be even heavier than it already is to withstand the emergency stops and pot holes of life.Originally Posted by reg71

that's what I was thinking... as much as I hate to, I'm probably gonna flip it tomorrow either after work in the morning or after I wake up before I ride up the coast. I don't want it backwards for my ride up hwy 1... im hoping for no major blood loss this time. third times the charm after all...Originally Posted by Vlad Impaler
_____________________________________________________Reg71 - Central Coast, CA98 VFR 800 - 5G Brotherhood

vlad, arion, jethro,
look at these pics after I flipped it. it doesn't look right on one hand, but then on the other it does. the small directional arrows now go opposite the tire rotation, but the arrow that says front and points, points forward now... I dunno. It points forward, but that's not the rotation direction. Anyway, I haven't ridden it yet, but I load up and head for SF today so I'm gonna get several miles in on them this way. Hopefully it's right. I can see how with the tire this way the forces of braking would be distributed comparably to acceleration of the rear, though....
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_____________________________________________________Reg71 - Central Coast, CA98 VFR 800 - 5G Brotherhood
"...but the arrow that says front and points, points forward now..." Which arrow are you referring to? All I see are the small arrows near the edge of the tread, and you are right, they do point backward.
Any arrow on tire or rim in my experience should point in rotation direction. I'm looking at that tire arrow and thinking NOW it's backward.
I'm not sure about the "front" comment either. I can't imagine a manufacturer would put "front" on anything that rotates on an axis perpendicular to the machines direction. That would mean the "front" position changes twice with every rotation.![]()
If all you have is arrows on the tire (I know that's the case on the rim) everything should point in rotation direction IMO.
If you want to get away from everyones opinion, call your local shop and ask.
My Metzelers have small arrows and "ROTATION" in small text with 'em.

I am thinking that with no other marking on the tire to say otherwise, the tire is now on there backwards. Guess you had it right the first time. The rim is correct as shown by the arrows direction.

well, I made it to SF with no situations on the tires. I'm still feeling they are backwards so I guess I'll switch them back to the way I started and I'll kill jethro for talking me into thinking I had them wrong! Man, I'm getting fast at swapping cause this morning, the first time I removed and remounted them the correct way then looked and realized I had them the same direction, so I did it again. If I flip again, itll be the 4th time I have mounted this 1 tire! I'm gonna try to stop by a shop while I'm here in SF and see what they say, but I think they're gonna look at me like Im an idiot...
_____________________________________________________Reg71 - Central Coast, CA98 VFR 800 - 5G Brotherhood
Step 7: Look how pretty that new tire is:
This picture shows everything in the proper direction of rotation if the bike is facing toward the right, with the rear tire to the left and the front tire to the right.
It seems to me you had everything on correct the first time and then someone made you second guess yourself and now you are riding around with your tire going in the wrong direction.
Sometimes it is best to just know that you did something the right way and disregard those who question it.
Hey Reg,........ i have a manual car tire changer that i dont use anymore, i bet we can re-engineer it to work on your m-cycle wheel. You can have it if you want, and i'll do the mods to it. Should make things easier than working on the ground and using your truck bumper.

hell yes. I'm gonna start workin on converting my back patio into a small motorcycle garage when I get back. that would make a nice addition. you and brian will be welcome to ride up and help me build the 'garage' I decided I can't wait to go through all the city crap for now... I also have my beer tap and supplies to hook up my kegerator. just looking for the proper cooler. I have a friend who already offerred me a keg so no deposit and I am looking for a new CO2 tank... We'll be all set...Originally Posted by Tori
_____________________________________________________Reg71 - Central Coast, CA98 VFR 800 - 5G Brotherhood
cool. one less thing in my back yard. Maybe you could pull a wheel off the old VFR and we could us it to set up the changer so we can make it work on m-cycle wheels. I'll need the wheel down at the house so i can cut, weld, and bang on stuff to make it fit.
Hi guys. I read the thread out of pure curiosity since during my 15 years of go-cart racing have been through the pain hundreds of times. My mates opinions were split so i had to do some thinking. I looked at the picture and my brain said immediately WRONG! The groove pumps the water - right? As it sits now it first touches the ground with outer end and during further rotation pumps the water under the center of the tire with almost guarantee for aquaplanning at mid-heavy rain. If you turn the tire opposite it will contact the ground with center end and pump the water to the outside. I tried it on go-cart with tires having only grooves skewing in one direction (no crossing pattern) and could see that they pumped the water to outer side. After swapping tyres left with right they were pumping water to the inner side making me more wet than i cared for.![]()
I am a happy owner of 91 rc36. Happy means dirty and sometimes bleeding hands. Making it ready for the seson and loving it. Quite nice piece of machinery but you probably know that. Happy new beer, by the way.
Andrew
I just mounted two new pilot road 2s, and now I'm having issues getting the front wheel back on. Service manual said to torque the axle bolt and right pinch bolts, bounce the front end a few times, then torque the left side. Still can't manage to get the proper clearance with the calipers. Sound like a problem with the calipers/pads?
2000 VFR800 Pearl Yellow
Heli-Bars, Dark Smoke Double Bubble Windscreen, Micron CF High Mount
The only mistake is being afraid to make one.

Sometimes I have troubles putting the wheel back on and what works for me is to just pull the brake pads out of the left caliper. I know it's not ideal but when it's 10 pm and you gotta go to work next morning you get pressed to solutions. Then I'm able to put the wheel back on and I re-insert the brake pads on the left caliper and I'm ready to rock 'n roll!
Great thread Reg
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_____________________________________________________Reg71 - Central Coast, CA98 VFR 800 - 5G Brotherhood
you use your feet now?
"Then I woke up one morning, and I stepped out of bed
Had to get a bike, had to paint it red"
Reg's post helped inspire me to do my own tires. It took a bit on the first try but I think it was worth learning.
JD .. Had the same but I just spread the brake pads with my thumb and that got them far enough apart to slide over the disk. .. I see that popping them out however could be quick. I was glad to change my tires because When I pulled the caliper free and the brake pads fell out... (not supposed to do that). I had recently had my dealer to the brake job but now I think I will be doing brakes as well as tires in the future.
Well I figured out why dumba$$ here (that'd be me) was having trouble with the front wheel. The pilot road 2s that I got have opposite facing grooves when comparing the front tire to the rear. I tried to mount the front the way it "looked" like it was supposed to go, and couldn't get the necessary clearance for the wheel to spin once mounted. FINALLY took a closer look at the tire after noticing the wheel itself was backwards, and all I had to do was flip it around. Slipped right on. Kinda weird to look at, though, since the tread is backwards to any other tire I've ridden on before.
2000 VFR800 Pearl Yellow
Heli-Bars, Dark Smoke Double Bubble Windscreen, Micron CF High Mount
The only mistake is being afraid to make one.
I'm not trying to be a smartass here, but the word "front" on a tire has nothing to do with the direction of rotation. It simply means that the tire goes on the front of the motorcycle. You'll probably find that the rear tire says "rear" on it.
I've never mounted a tire that didn't have a rotational arrow on it.
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