clutch EBC vs Barnett vs ?

[reg71]

I'm looking to rebuild my clutch and I'm wondering about opinions on the best... cost performance, etc... I ride fairly aggressively so I'd like something that'll withstand abuse...

[goinphaster]

I would refrain from getting barnett's performance clutch, the one I had on my vf500 wasn't all that great. just remember to replace the springs too (cheap).

[reg71]

Originally Posted by goinphaster

I would refrain from getting barnett's performance clutch, the one I had on my vf500 wasn't all that great. just remember to replace the springs too (cheap).

yeah, I was planning on getting springs too. they are usually listed right beside in my catalogs anyway. this will be a first for me. should I pay a dealer or do it myself? any special tools required? roughly how much should I spend IYO?

[goinphaster]

I'm not sure about the special tools. I haven't had to change a clutch in forever. but here's what you need to know- follow the manual. plain and simple. It's not a hard thing to do over all, one key is to pre-soak the friction disks in fresh oil prior to installing them. once you do it you will be proud you didn't waste the money on the dealer.

[Scott_Lilliott]

I've used both EBC and Barnett, both on the same racebike
(big Honda single). The Barnett is a better clutch material and takes much abuse. I agree about the springs, put in good ones.
There's no trick to replacing the clutch. However you may want to get a replacement clutch cover gasket in case you don't get the original one off clean. Otherwise it's a simple procedure: (yes, follow the shop manual!)
(ISTR they require that the plates be soaked in clean oil prior to installation)
1. Drain oil (Ob-remove fairings...)
2. Park bike on side stand (clutch is on right)
3. Remove clutch cover
4. Remove 5 clutch center bolts (10mm head,6mm thread)
5. Remove each disk and plate
6. Measure disks for wear (savage amusement)
7. Re-assemble clutch pack in same alternating order with new disks.
8. Bolt clutch center to hub. The bolts bottom so don't over-torque!
9. reassemble case cover w/gasket
10. ADD OIL!!
11. go ride

Scott

[Taz]

Originally Posted by Scott_Lilliott

I've used both EBC and Barnett, both on the same racebike
(big Honda single). The Barnett is a better clutch material and takes much abuse. I agree about the springs, put in good ones.
There's no trick to replacing the clutch. However you may want to get a replacement clutch cover gasket in case you don't get the original one off clean. Otherwise it's a simple procedure: (yes, follow the shop manual!)
(ISTR they require that the plates be soaked in clean oil prior to installation)
1. Drain oil (Ob-remove fairings...)
2. Park bike on side stand (clutch is on right)
3. Remove clutch cover
4. Remove 5 clutch center bolts (10mm head,6mm thread)
5. Remove each disk and plate
6. Measure disks for wear (savage amusement)
7. Re-assemble clutch pack in same alternating order with new disks.
8. Bolt clutch center to hub. The bolts bottom so don't over-torque!
9. reassemble case cover w/gasket
10. ADD OIL!!
11. go ride

Scott

yea, what he said, I agree the Barnett is much better, used in my race multi & single's, & I would run stock over EBC any day, EBC's don't cut it in my riding style (Hard on the clutch).

[Pearl-93]

Thanks for the detailed info gentlemen!

I was also think ing of replacing my clutch soon with an aftermarket application. Seems Barrnett is the way to go.

Thanks Again

[reg71]

well, I ended up with a Barnett kit from Ebay. Will let you know how it goes when I get it going. Thanks for all the help, though.

[reg71]

Scott, thanks for the step-by-step. It was so good I just copied it and inserted it for a quick how-to. I agree after doing it, it would be silly to pay someone. It's that easy!

(ISTR they require that the plates be soaked in clean oil prior to installation)

1. Drain oil (Ob-remove fairings...)

2. Park bike on side stand (clutch is on right)

3. Remove clutch cover

4. Remove 5 clutch center bolts (10mm head,6mm thread)


(sorry it's blurry, it's taken with my cell and my hands were oily)

5. Remove each disk and plate



6. Measure disks for wear (savage amusement) (I skipped this step)

7. Re-assemble clutch pack in same alternating order with new disks.

8. Bolt clutch center to hub. The bolts bottom so don't over-torque! (9 lb-ft)

9. clean off old gasket well, reassemble case cover new gasket (wasn't sure of torque val here so used 6.5 lb-ft



10. ADD OIL! (don't even ask which is the best)

(also need to give Brian a big thanks for helping me with this. I could have managed myself but I felt better having someone there who knew what they were doing.)

[nunyadamnbiz]

So where do these springs everyone keeps talking about go...some pics maybe...looks easy to do though.

[reg71]

Originally Posted by nunyadamnbiz

So where do these springs everyone keeps talking about go...some pics maybe...looks easy to do though.

If you look in the first pic where it says I'm taking out a bolt, you can sort of see the top of one of the springs. There is one held down by each of the bolts... You can't miss them. It was pretty easy, yes. I was nervous about it, but I doubt I'll ever pay anyone to do it now that I have done it once...

[Lgn001]

The only thing I'd add is to remove the clutch spring bolts evenly, one full turn at a time, using the same sort of criss-cross pattern that is used for a car wheel, until most of the spring tension is released. Ditto for tightening them. This might not be an issue on a VFR, but some of the bikes I've worked on had some pretty flimsy pressure plates.

In general, any time that there is spring pressure exerted on a common object from multiple locations, it is good to reduce (and apply) the pressure slowly and evenly.

I'd worry about this mostly on an older bike that may have brittle parts, or an extremely high-output high-RPM motor that always finds and destroys the weak spots. But then again, I tend to be over-cautious about such things.

OK, end of lecture. Just can't help myself sometimes; sorry 'bout that! By the way, Reg71, I always like looking at your posts. Good pictures and descriptions. Thanks!

[nunyadamnbiz]

Awesome....I just ordered my EBC plates and springs for a total of $70. God I love Fleabay....I wanted the Barnett kevlar ones, but hey 70 vs. $150+ I just went with the EBC ones....so I know I'm going to hear sh*t on this one, but what kind of oil do I put back in there and how much...just 10W30 or something...not looking for particular brands or anything....I can't wait untill they come in....is there any adjusting the clutch lever or anything, or just as the pics shows....Thanks a million guys, if I ever meet any of you, or your in the Atlanta area....beers on me...wait....BEER on me....KT

[GenLightening]

One more thing you can do while it's apart is to inspect the clutch basket and hub for wear. In your second pic you can see where the two look striped from the clutch plate fingers (frictions on the basket and steels on the hub). if those wears enough the plates won't move smoothly.

I've always used stock plates for street use. The EBC, Barnett and others tend to be more "grabby" on the street. Oh, and always go with heavy duty springs. One of the best upgrades you can do.

[nunyadamnbiz]

Ok kinda a stupid question, but one that I have been wondering about....is it bad to open up the oil fill plug while the engine is running...I did that for a second the other night, and was just wondering if that could do damage maybe because of lack of pressure or anything...sorry for the newbie question...but...hey I was always taught that there is no stupid questions, just stupid reasons for not asking the question....thanks again guys/gals

[GenLightening]

Originally Posted by nunyadamnbiz

Ok kinda a stupid question, but one that I have been wondering about....is it bad to open up the oil fill plug while the engine is running...I did that for a second the other night, and was just wondering if that could do damage maybe because of lack of pressure or anything...sorry for the newbie question...but...hey I was always taught that there is no stupid questions, just stupid reasons for not asking the question....thanks again guys/gals

Only if you dropped someting in there. And you may get some oil spash out of it. Other that that, no problem.

[NorcalBoy]

Looks like it might be time for a new Clutch Center Hub and Clutch Outer, Reg.
I'm sure you didn't want to spend the money on the new parts but they look to be quite heavily grooved. If the lever action is smooth, then what the hell do I know, LOL!

[nunyadamnbiz]

Originally Posted by GenLightening

Only if you dropped someting in there. And you may get some oil spash out of it. Other that that, no problem.

Only a tear or two thinking I had to spend the $350 that the shop told me it would be....then I found you guys and all...well not all, but most of my bike problems have went away....now where the heck is the nice weather. Thanks a million guys again....