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#61 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Last Online: Yesterday 11:05 AM
Posts: 122
Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
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Trannie
OK.
HD= Harley Davidson, they use an external transmission, about the size of a large breadbox. Shaft in and shaft out, ready for gears, pullies etc. OK, If they electric motor is fine direct drive, seeing as how acceleration benefits from gear ratio, limiting top speed, for now (120V is another story). Your shooting around 5:1. Let's change gears. If direct drive is good, and torque is available at 0 RPM, would it better more efficient to have 2 smaller motors vs 1 larger. I'm thinking 2 motors in the drive hubs instead of 1 in the chassis with chain drive. I would really like to make an ebike, but the engineer wants to make something futuristic also, ala the Suzuki Nuda? I understand that taking an existing bike and retrofitting an electric motor will be OK for now. My commute right now is 35 miles one way and I would like a little breathing room as pushing an ebike does not appeal to me. Larry BTW, if I haven't said it, I think this is one of the best ideas ever, and can't wait to make my own or even see a marketable kit. |
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#62 (permalink) | ||||||
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Last Online: Today 04:52 PM
Posts: 116
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Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
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| The Following User Says Thank You to frodus For This Useful Post: | safetypro10 (10-20-2008) |
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#63 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Last Online: Yesterday 11:05 AM
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Ebike
Ok, the serious search for a donor with large battery area begins. I saw a 08 GSXR1000 donor, but they wanted $1000. Maybe a slightly older bike with a dead/blown engine.
Keep up the good work. Was looking a LI batteries, but I can't seem to find a "package". Are you making your own packs for 96 or 120 V? I really want something modular so I can fit as much power as possible in the frame, so flexibility may be important. Is there a manual/guidebook for the engineering oriented so I can read how to install/wire/organize the bike? Again, good job, lead on. Larry |
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#64 (permalink) | ||||
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Last Online: Today 04:52 PM
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First chose a budget, as its going to define the limts of the project. Next, define your range NEEDS (not wants), and speed NEEDS (not wants). Then look around for what it would cost for the system (battery,motor,controller, gauges). Calculate the weight/volume of the batteries and what the weight would be and if its resonable. Then see what kind of volume you'd need. THEN you chose a bike to convert based on the budget remaining and the volume/weight requirements of the system. (I'm an EE, so I figured out an efficient design process). Sure you could get a huge bike that handles like poo and fill it with 6grand worth of lifepo batteries, huge motor and controller.... but do you NEED that to meet your goals? Lead is cheaper but heavier but allows for higher amps (more torque). Lifepo is more expensive but 1/3 the weight, and can't handle the amps that lead can. You would have a VERY hard time getting over 40 miles with lead though. Quote:
Lifepo doesn't come in preassembled packs, but they're not hard to make. Right now 20Ah batteries are about 37 bucks, 40Ah batteries are about 68 bucks, 60Ah are 102 bucks. If you needed a 6.5Kwh pack (100Wh/mile times 60 miles is about 6k plus extra for inefficiencies), and you used 40Ah cells you'd need 50cells in 2 cells in parallel, 25 of those in series to get about 82V nominal at 80Ah. 90 cubic inches (roughly) a piece, times 50 is 4500 cubic inches. About 2.6 cubic feet if they're all crammed together with no space in between, estimate more like 3-3.25Cu-ft. Thats about the inside size of a large mini fridge just for batteries. 50 cells of the 40Ah is 3400 bucks, no charger, no battery management system (REALLY important with lifepo). Then add to that the size of the motor, a controller and a charger. Quote:
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