1986 VFR700F electric conversion

[frodus]

I figure its about time that I start putting my VFR EV project out there. I was recently featured on Autobloggreen, and I guess I didn't think that many people were interested. But then My website stats jumped quite dramatically... so there's interest. Thought you VFR guys might like to follow the progress, I'm a few weeks away from having it running.

My website is: http://www.evfr.net and there are plenty of pictures, and a blog or two a week since I started last year.



About the project:
The bike is a 1986 Honda VFR700F that I found in Florida for $400 with no title, in like new condition. Brand new tires, been stored for 10 years with $4270 miles on it. I got it shipped to Oregon for $675, and parted out the engine, exhaust and electrical and just about broke even. The bike was essentially free. The title was lost, but it checked out, so I found another frame for $150 and swapped it after engine removal.

I'm currently working with a company in Portland on building a very robust 600A 156V fully programmable series motor controller. Its in test right now, and we're finalizing the design. We've got a PDA communicating with it for my display. It will display MPH (tach input to controller), motor rpm, battery side voltage and current, motor side current and voltage. It will display each battery voltage in the future. We're also working on battery balancing and charging designs.

A couple months ago I found an Advanced DC K99-4007 motor on a surplus website, and bought 2 of them. They are equivalent to the ADC K91-4003. They max out at around 50 or so ftlbs or torque and 18hp. Its 56lbs and has plenty of thermal mass. max RPM is around 5500. Just need to machine the shaft for a keyway and shorten the shaft.

I also scored 12 18Ah batteries (will do series parallel to get 72V) from another EV Motorcycle guy. They're about 13lbs a piece, for about a 36Ah pack at 72V, and 54Ah at 48V. Still working on how I want to charge and balance them.

Just picked up a Vicor 200W 48V to 12V DC DC converter for my accessories/lights/contactor for $20... score.

So I've got batteries, DC-DC, motor, controller, contactor, rolling chassis. I need to fabricate the motor mount (the Portland guys are helping me), make a battery cage and some battery/motor cables. I'm trying to pick sprockets and think I'll go with a 4:1 ratio. Some guys with eteks/perm132 go 5:1 up to 7:1. Other guys with smaller ADC motors go anywhere from 3.5:1 to 4.5:1. My motor is larger with more power, so 4:1 should be just right. I'm changing from 530 chain (#50) to #40 chain to make it more quiet. Sprocketspecialists have sprockets for me for under $100, and surpluscenter.com has sprockets and nickel chain. I need to start looking for a charger for short term, we're working on distributed charging right now, and its being tested.

So thats about where I am. Comments, critiques appreciated.

Travis Gintz
1986 eVFR

[fatso1277]

Well once i figure out what all those parts do, i am sure i will think its a great project so please keep us posted.

damn public school education...

[reg71]

reads interesting, but I sure would miss the sound of a V4... keep us posted. we always like projects...

[frodus]

HAHA, basically the controller tells the motor how fast to go (like the carbs telling the engine), DC-DC powers the lights off the 72V battery pack, and the contactor is like the ignition switch.

Just thought you guys might like it, its a little bit out there, but its such a damn nice bike... I needed something sexy to convert.

[squirrelman]

It's sad to ruin a VFR for someone's obsession with electricity......knows what he's doing obviously, but not sure why?
Very professional write-up; when gas runs low our grandkids can do this conversion, but it was a far better motorcycle before the project began.....

[frodus]

oh, I forgot to say:

The original engine wasn't in good shape, it had been sitting with fuel, the gas tank was rusted, carbs were dry and cracked, and the oil gummed up. it hadn't been run in 10 years. It wasn't a perfectly good bike, plus, no title. there was no way this thing was going to run legally ever again until I bought it.

It would have cost the 150 plus the cost of new gaskets (cracked), rebuilding the carbs and couplers, rebuilding the engine. Plus, it was in FL, near the beach, and it was a little corroded inside and out, because he would turn it over every now and then, pull in the salty air, and let it sit for a few months.

Oh, I assure you I bought it wanting to get it running, but after trying, and assessing the damage, I didn't want to put another grand and lots of time rebuilding things.

So, I didn't ruin it, it was "ruined" before I got it. He didn't take care of it.

[squirrelman]

You're having FUN, and that's what motorcycles are all about!!
Carry on.....

[frodus]

Well, if nothing else, I can count on there being no one else with a VFR700 like this one...

there's one that I know of, but he made it a chopper cruiser and took the fairings off... looks "rough"...

I'm keeping the look, and love the VFR, great little bike.

[VT Viffer]

Wow.

I just checked out your site and all of the pictures. You have quite the project going!!! I think that everyone on this site will agree that you used the right bike!!! I am also impressed with the condition of the bike that you located.

I do have a few questions, though... Those look like original tires - I would hate to see you wipe out on your new bike because the tread has become hard from years of sitting. Were you planning on some modern rubber before you hit the road with it?

Also - what is the weight gain/savings for this project? I know that electrical motors can be quite heavy, and a bunch of batteries aren't exactly light...

Keep us updated! This is a VERY COOL PROJECT!

[VT Viffer]

Oh - one more idea -

You could cut the bottom off the tank along the seam and gain more room if needed and keep the stock look/paint, etc.

[betiller]

maybe Al Gore could ride with you to Starbucks and discuss carbon credits!!!

[frodus]

Originally Posted by VT Viffer

Oh - one more idea -

You could cut the bottom off the tank along the seam and gain more room if needed and keep the stock look/paint, etc.

The tires are brand new within the last couple years, with the ink still on the outside. It has been driven, but the tires were replaced because of cracking. These are good, no cracking, but yes, brand new. I know they'll be slick at first, i plan on being careful.

There won't be a ton of weight savings, but unlike with the original ICE, each lbs of lead is distance gained. Lead is only to get her running, I'll be adding lithium Iron Phosphate batteries within the next year to cut 100lbs, and extend range. At that point, there will be significant weight savings.

And the tank is going to get cut apart. Its rusted on the inside pretty bad, and from the pics, you can see that he painted a spot where the paint bubbled because of corrosion. I'll put the charger and controller in the tank.

I was planning on getting VFR chuck's solo seat cowl, the one piece one, to gain some more room under the seat in the back. I won't be needing a second passenger, so the more room the better.

Thanks for the feedback, I know it sucks to see one "changed", but she was already pretty much just a good looking corpse when i got it. But hey, it was $400....

[squirrelman]

the increse in weight will need to be compensated for (if bike is ever ridden) by changing both front and rear springs and determining that max load on tyres is not exceeded.

[SLOVFR]

Yeah,I got a question....... AAHH What???

[frodus]

Originally Posted by squirrelman

the increse in weight will need to be compensated for (if bike is ever ridden) by changing both front and rear springs and determining that max load on tyres is not exceeded.

there won't be a weight increase. Read what I said above..... there just won't be much weight savings.

Right now, bare frame without fairings is 140lbs... motor is 56lbs, batteries are another 156 is 352 lbs, then add another ~20lbs for controller and charger and its about 375 or so.

Stock weight is: 436lbs dry weight, add another 20 for gas/fluids and you're up around 450. thats about 75lbs lighter with lead, and 150lbs lighter when I go lithium.

I think you assume that this thing is going to be some weighted down sluggish beast of a motorcycle. I'm trying to keep it light, and retain some of the fun. I won't be going over weight, it'l be right about what it originally was, but only for a few months when I'm saving for LiFePo.

[darknight201]

here's another electric interceptor on craigslist right now
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/mcy/595446139.html
waste of $ if you ask me. 10 mi on a full charge

[VT Viffer]

I think that even though it's sacriledge to replace a V-4 with electricity, Frodus is doing the right thing by keeping a nice bike on the road. Especially a VFR!!!

The range is another important question - you're expecting a range of greater than 10-15 miles, right?

[darknight201]

Originally Posted by VT Viffer

I think that even though it's sacriledge to replace a V-4 with electricity, Frodus is doing the right thing by keeping a nice bike on the road. Especially a VFR!!!

The range is another important question - you're expecting a range of greater than 10-15 miles, right?

I'm not an electric motorcycle guy, but my guess is it'll be about the same. The other guy has 6 12V@38Ah batteries in series for a total of 72V@38Ah. Frodus is going to have 72V@36Ah. He'll probably get more range if he wires it up for 48V@54Ah but he'll probably have to sacrifice speed. He could be using a more effecient motor though, in which case forget everything I said :-)

He could get some more batteries to bump up the voltage and make an electric drag bike. That would be pretty cool

[frodus]

well, here's the thing... most of my driving is going to be not on the highway because of where work is. its 7 miles to and 7 back. a little uphill on the way home.

The controller decides how much voltage and current to give. If the controller is at 50% (half speed) its voltage is 36V now... The capacitors inside are only discharging at 50%. So, putting my batteries into a different configuration won't do a ton, other than limit top end. The power delivered and available is still the same.

Just remember p=VI
72*36= 2593W
48*54= 2593W
and
144*18=2593W

If I go slower, I have more Ah available, but speed is limited.
if I allow it to go faster, less Ah is available, but distance is limited.

power is power, no matter how you cut it.

My range is going to suck at first, which is why lithium is going to be the next addition to the bike. Start simple first, get it going, tune the mechanical, make sure the motor is set up right, THEN you add more power. I'm going to pack as much LiFePo in the bike as possible.

his bike uses heavier batteries, and is a steal framed bike... removing some weight from mine, but only losing 2Ah, I'm expecting 10-15miles... to start with.

My total cost for this project is just around $300, and I've got everything I need to get it running at 48V 54Ah. That includes Bike, batteries, motor, controller contactor and fuses. Add another 200 for cable and connectors and materials for motor mount as well as chain and sprocket, i'm still around $500.... not bad for a bike that will cost around 2 cents a mile to drive.

Plus, who else has one, thats gonna look as sexy as mine :)

[SLOVFR]

Ok next question ... AAHHH Why ????