valve adjustment or other??

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by lynchingacers, Mar 20, 2009.

  1. lynchingacers

    lynchingacers New Member

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    83' vf750f interceptor

    i have this real loud clicking form the rear heads and heard from a friend this might be a valve adjustment
    theres no oil mod installed and the bike has only around 23000 or so miles

    i was wondering if this is deffinitly a valve adjustment, what else it could be
    and whats involved for the valve adjustment,

    and yes the oil mod was on my list of to do's
    just not yet
     
  2. CARMINE

    CARMINE New Member

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    uhm...23000 miles not so much.
    Try oil 20-60w and a good oil additive. This way my VFR (87) reduced head noise.
    Ciao. Carmine
     
  3. H.C.D.

    H.C.D. New Member

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    Go to autozone, pep boys, etc, and buy a can of sea-foam. Read the directions on the back, and put the recommended amount into your crankcase. Ride the bike for 50-80 miles, then change your oil and filter while the engine is still good and warm.

    Regards,
    H.C.D.
     
  4. lynchingacers

    lynchingacers New Member

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    thanks for the info
     
  5. masonv45

    masonv45 New Member

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    Do NOT use 20w - 60! It's way too thick. These bikes have a marginal oil system as it is - no sense in aggravating the situation.

    Go with a motorcycle oil 10w-30. It's what the manual says to use.

    There are 16 valves on the bike. If you don't hear the valves at all, then they are too tight. As the valves wear, the tolerances will tighten up and the valves will get quieter and quieter.

    Properly adjusted valves will make noise when the bike is cold, but will get quieter as the bike warms up.

    Not sure what the seafoam will do to a bike's clutch disks.

    This will help:
    ValveTrain - SabMagFAQ
     
  6. H.C.D.

    H.C.D. New Member

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    +1 on the 20W-60 oil. Thats too heavy. I will run 10W-40 in the VFR this summer but only because its HOT here in Arkansas.

    Good concern about sea-foam. That is a concern for anything you pour into your crankcase besides oil if you have a wet-clutch.

    I have used sea-foam as described above for several years. I do it every 3rd or 4th oil change and I have never had any clutch issues. I put 40K miles on my last bike and the clutch worked fine. I also know a lot of people who have used it with no clutch issues. So, I think its safe to use.

    Regards,
    H.C.D.
     
  7. lynchingacers

    lynchingacers New Member

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    good to know on the sea foam

    clutch seems to kina stick for a min on startup so sometime prolly gonna rip it alll apart again ang go all barnet stuff eventully
     
  8. CandyRedRC46

    CandyRedRC46 Member

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    i wouldnt recommend the barnet clutch kit. i dont know if it was because i had the kevlar version, but since i put it on my nighthawk it hasnt been the same. it was very grabby at low revs with a light feather. i would have to bring the revs up higher and apply more pressure to smooth it out. basically i would have to launch more aggressively than i preffer to, most of the time. you might want to stick with oem unless this is a track bike...
     
  9. joner7777

    joner7777 New Member

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    What is sea-foam?
    is it simular to a heavy grade gear oil?
     
  10. H.C.D.

    H.C.D. New Member

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    Here's a link....

    Sea Foam
     
  11. 02 VFR Rider

    02 VFR Rider New Member

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    If your bike is not shim under bucket type and has adjustable rockers just check the valves not a hard thing to do
     
  12. GreyVF750F

    GreyVF750F Member

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    Seeing that it's an 83 I wonder if the cam chain tensioners have been changed. The original ones weren't that good. They have been revised several times since then. They had a service bulletin about the main oil orifice bolt that feeds the cams. I changed to the new one at 4k miles. It now has 55k miles with original cams and they are still in great shape. I've used nothing but 10w-40 Golden Spectro blend in the motor since new. And I ride the s@#t out of it.

    Pull your oil orifice out and take a look at it. If the hole ,by the bolt head, is about 3/32" and it has a tube on the other end with 4 holes in it, it is the original and should be changed or drilled out. They got rid of the tube and made the holes in the bolt larger.

    As far as oil goes use a MOTORCYCLE oil, not an automotive oil. Auto oil doesn't have the shear qualities the motorcycle oils have. Plus your trans will shift a lot better. The factory manual states "Use Honda 4-Stroke oil or equivalent. API service classification SE or SF viscosity SAE 10-40" The SE/SF is an old classification. The book does have a temp chart for oil viscosities. The ranges are 10w-30 for -5 thru 85 degree weather running, 10w40 for -5 over 100 and 20w-40 or 20w-50 from 15 over 100 degrees. A good 10w-40 is all you really need.
     
  13. gunnarf06

    gunnarf06 New Member

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    [/QUOTE]Pull your oil orifice out and take a look at it. If the hole ,by the bolt head, is about 3/32" and it has a tube on the other end with 4 holes in it, it is the original and should be changed or drilled out. They got rid of the tube and made the holes in the bolt larger.[/QUOTE]


    Hey are you talking about the bolt witch comes out of the cover.Like mine has 1 hole in the end of the bolt then 2 holes at the side of the bolt.Can I buy this aftermarket bolt or do I have do drill holes in the old one.Is not then a smart idea changing out the oil line to the heads.I have been thinking to change them out so it be the same length from the bolt to each head not like now it is 5cm longer oil line to the front head so it has lower oil pressure.

    Best regards

    Gunnar
     
  14. VFRDoug

    VFRDoug New Member

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    You want to steer clear of oil with the "energy conserving" symbol on the bottle, which is found on (pretty much) all 10w30 oils, but only some of other weight oils. So if you're looking at 10w40 and it's not bike specific oil, just look for the round circle on the back with the "energy conserving" written in it, and if it's there, choose another. The EC properties don't jive well with the bike's clutch.
     
  15. lynchingacers

    lynchingacers New Member

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    thanks for the heads up on the oil stuff
    i was going to replace with Spectro gold guy that owned it before gave me a gallon
    drill and tap oil mod and pull cover to check cams
    i kinda narrowed the clicking to the rear left cylinder so ill probably have it adjusted

    thank you for your help
     
  16. deepdish

    deepdish Banned

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    I like head nosie... gigaddy gigaddy OOOHHHHHHH!!!:thumbsup:
     
  17. freemountain

    freemountain New Member

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    Just wondering what is a common mileage for needing valve adjustments...I've had my 85 (500) interceptor for 10 000 miles and have neglected this. Big job if the valves go through the piston. I have 28 000 miles on my bike, Should I put off my plans this weekend to check my valve clearances? (Trip is 700 km this weekend, and another 700 next weekend) or am I safe waiting until next week/ the week after? On a related note The haynes manual make it seem like checking the clearances is a straighforward job, can a backyard mechanic do this in a day?
     
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