Replacing fork seals..

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by 86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU, Feb 24, 2010.

  1. 86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU

    86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU New Member

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    Hey guys, so I am going to be needing to replace my fork seals pretty soon. I called the local honda place and they want $80 in labor to replace them. That includes me taking off the forks and just taking the forks to them.
    Is this worth it? or do how hard is it to change seals on these things? I am fairly mechanically minded, and have a Clymer manual for a step by step guide, but I am not sure if I have all the tools needed. I just have all the basics.

    What do yall think about it? Is there anything specific I will need tool wise to change them? Is it worth $80 to not have to deal with the frustration or is it easy to do?
    Whats a good fork oil weight for these bikes? I wiegh 125lbs, and sometimes carry a passenger so around 225 total.

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2010
  2. tinkerinWstuff

    tinkerinWstuff Administrator Staff Member

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    Clymer makes it look more complicated than it really is.

    A good snapring plyer and being able to get the lower bolt broke loose are the keys to the job.

    After you've done it the first time, and once the fork is removed, it's like a 10minute job per tube so $80 seems rich to me.

    Don't be a dummy like me and make sure the bottom bolt is all the way removed before trying to seperate the tubes.
     
  3. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Best results are with Honda OEM seals, not aftermarket.

    Good luck
     
  4. 86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU

    86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU New Member

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    Yeah I plan on ordering the fork and dust seal set from bikebandit. Thats a good reputable source right??
    And thanks for the quick responses guys! $80 seemed alittle steep to me also. I have a set of snapring pliers, dont know how good they are but I have some. Anything else I need to look out for or any advice on changing seals?
    Also what fork oil weight do yall use?
     
  5. Meatloaf

    Meatloaf New Member

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    I wouldn't say that $80 labor is too shabby. That is probably an hour of labor and while it may be a little excessive, most shops do have a minimum charge of usually one hour. I'd say half an hour is about right for this once you know what you are doing and have the proper tools. Of course the proper tools are not cheap and even making them yourself takes a little bit of time and a few bucks in parts.

    I would say that if think you are going to be doing this in the future a couple of times for either this bike or others to do it yourself. There isn't much that you need in the way of so-called specialized tools other than seal drivers. However you can make these yourself out of PVC pipe and can even make some better ones out of PVC with a few fittings and customization. I'm a fan of do-it-yourself. Before my Shadow, I'd never touched a motorcycle before. I tackled the forks and did it based upon the Honda service manual for them and had no problems whatsoever. I did a full blown rebuild and not just fork seals. I felt I was getting into way more than I could handle but it really is quite simple.

    Take your time, plan your moves ahead of time, do your research to make sure that you have everything ahead of time, and come on here for lots of help. Other than that it really is as simple as taking a few nuts and bolts off and making sure that everything goes back in the place and order it came off. It is even simpler for just doing the seals as you don't really mess with the internals.
     
  6. 86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU

    86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU New Member

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    with the pvc pipe, im guessing you just get the inside and outside diameter the same as the seal, what else is there to do to make the seal driver?
    Thanks for all the help! I think I am going to try and tackle it by myself, so I might be having alot more questions to come!!! wish me luck!
     
  7. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    Try removing the bottom bolt before you remove the springs. Try it by hand first with the forks still in the clamps, unless you have a nice big vise with soft clamps. An impact gun with a nice new extended hex bit can be your friend. Careful, those bolts round out very easily. That "pop" when the bolt goes without rounding out is such a great sound! And then, "pop" goes the beer!
    Don't forget to check the bushings. Any brass showing through the teflon is a bad thing. Driving new bushings is a little harder than the seals without bunging things up if you don't have the right drivers..

    Good luck!
    Mike.
     
  8. 86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU

    86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU New Member

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    Clymer manual reccommends filling the forks with Dexron automatic transmission fluid instead of fork oil.. is this correct?
     
  9. Captain 80s

    Captain 80s Member

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    It works... it is approx. 7.5 wt. oil. I'd put 10 in it. Maybe mix half 10 and half 15 for some 12.5. It's personal preference. The heavier you go, the harsher the damping will be (especially on sharp edged bumps, like bridge expansion joints). You replace springs to stiffen the forks, not heavy oil.
     
  10. 86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU

    86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU New Member

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    Ok thanks!!! the whole "transmission " fluid part had me wondering . I think I can tackle this! Been reading up more and more and I am going to try it soon, not sure if I can this weekend because parts arnt in yet but when they come in I am going to be ready and hit the floor runnin

    Thanks guys!
     
  11. Meatloaf

    Meatloaf New Member

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    Give this a good read over... it is loaded with pics and basic instructions.

    bluepoof bikes - changing fork oil

    Order your seals and wipers and take them to the hardware store with ya when you go to get the PVC. You can hold them up directly to the pipe to find the one that fits best. On the oil seal you fill find one side that has a metal spring which keeps the tension around the fork tube so that it seals properly. You want to make sure that the pipe isn't hitting on the spring and that it isn't larger the the outside diameter of the seal. I've never use the split PVC pipe like the pictures show in what I linked you to so I can't say how that works. I have a single pipe that I use for all fork seals and an assortment of fittings that are reducers or enlargers to fit the seal that I'm driving.

    Make sure that you order new crush washers for the bottom bolt that Captain is talking about. There is nothing worse than doing all of this than to find out you skimped on two 50 cent washers and your forks are leaking.

    Yes, technically tranny fluid is a substitute but I wouldn't recommend it. No more expensive than fork oil is, no more than you will need, and how long it sits in your forks, splurge the extra ten bucks to get the right thing. Research what weight you want to go with. Most of the time you will want to go a tad heavier than what is stock... but I'm sure you'll find what is right for you.

    Ask away, it is what we are all here for. If you're stuck or are talking about specific things you don't know the exact name of or order, etc... post us some pics as well. If you're concerned about getting it all back together right, take pics as you take things apart so you know what is going on when you go to put it back together.

    Good luck!
     
  12. 86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU

    86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU New Member

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    Thanks for the website! lots of good information and pics!!! It will definately come in handy, its alot better than the Clymer manual...
    The crush washers you are talking about, those are for the bolts on the bottoms of the fork sliders correct?
    I am thinking of going with the 12w oil, a good racey feel with still some softness for those ruff roads and bridges.
    I will try and take pics as I go along and post them up if I have any questions!! I will hopefully get the parts ordered this week and be able to put them in next weekend!!

    Thanks for all the help!
     
  13. Meatloaf

    Meatloaf New Member

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    those would be the ones.
     
  14. 86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU

    86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU New Member

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    Ok finally got the parts in!!! plan on changing the seals friday night, girlfriend can deal with not going out for a night!! Is the left fork harder to change with the anti-dive system? just wondering if I should start off with the easier right side or if it matters?

    Thanks guys! I try and take pics along the way and post up.
     
  15. slowbird

    slowbird Member

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    Good luck with the Forks.

    I've been meaning to rebuild (or send out to get rebuilt) a set of spare forks but I don't have the proper tools.
     
  16. nozzle

    nozzle New Member

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    ensure you get a pic with you in it so that we can judge is your hair is as blue as the how-to article shows it should be ;-)
     
  17. 86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU

    86INTERCEPTOR500@NCSU New Member

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    AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH !!!!!!!!!

    took the forks off today, went to put one in a soft vice to unscrew the bottom drain bolt and realized the fork tube looked alittle...curved.
    After studying them for awhile and trying not to cry... I have come to the conclusion that both tubes are bent just under where the lower clamp holds them in place. soooo.......
    anyone know of anywhere to get a good set of cheap new/used fork tubes or possibly whole fork set?
    if I replace the seals anyways do you think that the bend is high enough up to not interfere with the seal? I might just ride on bent forks till i can get straight tubes.

    Checked the whole frame for stress cracks/bends/anything else crash related and did not find anything thankfully. This might explain why the original front wheel would not ride smooth...I just thought it was out of balance or bad tire.

    anyways... looks like I fell into a money pit on this one, guess the $500 deal wasnt much of a deal
     
  18. duB

    duB New Member

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    Bent forks, ahhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!
    Your challenge will be reinstalling the wheel and get the proper clearance between the rotor and the caliper bracket.
    Bent forks can be fixed but it is not cheaper than a used set on eBay.
    I tried myself to fix a 1 mm run out without success (not visible without a dial indicator).
    I had nothing strong enough to bent the forks remove the bent.
    Finally got a 50$ fork set on eBay to fix it.
    If you could see it without measuring it, it might be more than that.
     
  19. nozzle

    nozzle New Member

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    sorry to hear your baby is not what you thought she was. :-(
     
  20. Meatloaf

    Meatloaf New Member

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    This is not a huge deal. So long as there are no creases in the fork tubes you can be straightened. I know my buddy Reuben can fix this for you as he does it all of the time. I don't think he charges much. If I remember correct I think it is $25 a tube to straighten them but dont quote me on that. Check out his website, 35 Motorsports | Motorcycle engine and suspension service, supersport & superstock engine builds .

    Give him a ring and tell him Zac O'Vadka sent you his way. Shipping will likely be more than the work. He won't be able to do it next week as he will be out of the state doing work for the Kevin Schwantz riding school but should be back after that to do it. The good thing about doing this is you KNOW you are going to get back a good product. He has done it for friends of mine in the past and its always worked out well. Buying from EBay doesn't guarantee that you are going to get what you are wanting.... they might be bent as well.
     
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