Car wheel conversion

Anyone interested in fitting a car wheel and 200 x 50 x 17 motorcycle tyre to their 96 arm??? Its a cool conversion and I can show you just how to do it

 

post a pic, this I have to see

 

Maybe for drag racing.... not if you have to corner.

 

There are 2 steps to fitting a car wheel, step one is

HOW TO FIND AN OFF SET



Step 1.

Lay the wheel on a flat surface hub face side up. It dont have to be level, just flat



Step 2.

Place a straight edge across the top of the tyre. This is so you can measure from the floor to the underside of the straight edge, and give you an overall width. Now depending what size tyre you use on your wheel will depend on averall width so dont go with my measurement unless you are using a 180 tyre.



Step 3.

I got 184mm, Make a note of the size on a bit of paper. I found it easier to make a sketch of the tyre and add a centre line, then add the dims to it.



Step 4.

Now measure down to the hub face, mine was 110mm. Now add that to the sketch.



This sketch should make things a bit easier



So

Overall wheel width = 184mm (With the tyre on)
and = 92mm to the centre of the VFR wheel
I then laid the straight edge on top of the tyre and measured down to the hub face = 110mm
so that is 18mm past centre. This 18mm is my existing offset,
that being the case then new wheel offset = 40mm - 18mm = 22mm + 8mm spacer to centre VFR wheel, so new spacer is 30mm

 

op2:dont tease me show me a pic of the car tire on the bike

 

Next its all about fitting longer wheel studs to cope with the new offset and spacer setup

So heres How to change your wheel studs and fit a car wheel to your Single sided swing arm.




I thought it might be a bit easier to do the job if I removed the sprocket first and got the chain right out of the way.



They are the little buggers I need to get to



So after I got the sprocket off the next thing to do was undo that big nut. I dont have a socket that big so used an adjustable wrench.
Behind the nut is a washer that needs to be removed carefully with a flat screw driver.



Once they are off the hub should pull off.



With a soft mallet, tap out the hub from the splined side.



I used my Haines manuel, but now all you have to do is follow this, happy days!!!



OK, in my socket set I have a bunch of sockets with 7/8" and 1 1/4" bollocks on them. I dont use them, I dont like them, and I dont understand them so any chance I get to abuse them, I do just that.

Anyway, I stuck one of them in my vice and tightend down on it



I then placed my disc hub onto the vice with the wheel stud sat inside the socket. You know whats comming next dont ya!!??



A couple of sharp taps and out-ski she come-ski



Now up to now its only taken about half an hour, so not hard at all



And there they all are, including that 7/8" socket, retarded twat!!!!!



Now I have something I can go to my local car spairs shop with and ask for something a bit longer, Ow er Missus!!



Hub is 8mm + 30mm spacer + new wheel, so I'm gonna need something to cope with all that



I'm gonna do it with two spacers, 1 x 20mm and 1 x 10mm, coz I'm not a clever git with a lathe that can make one. When the 20mm spacer arrived it was just a nats cock to small, so I went round the inside with a round back file and took off a very small amount.



Then it popped straight on, and was a nice snug fit.

Right then, lets see if I can remember how this pile of nuts and bolts went together



peice of piss, there was fark all to taking it to bits, so putting it all back was a doddle.



The studs I used were 63mm long Ford studs (M12/1.5) The M12 is the size of the bolt and the 1.5 is the pitch of the thread. They have a 13.1mm spigot, thats the bit that bites into the hub. You'll need to drill out your hub to fit them, but if a numb nut like me can do it, then so can you.



I put the 20mm spacer on first as the back has hollow sections that sat nice over the disc rotor nuts. Then the 10mm spacer went on next.



Loads of room for the wheel, and plenty of thread fo my funkey wheel nuts, MAN!

 

Ok, so I know its a CBR 900, but the bit we are talking about right now it full on 1996 VFR single sided swing arm. And there aint a reason in the world that says you cant do it to your Viffa



Made the arse look big []

 

Believe me it dont hang about, but you need to counter stear and she dips straight into a corner no problem

 

I was gonna call bullshit when I saw the post but my hat is off to you.:hi2:

 

Thanking you Sir.

Well, while you've got your hacksaw out, and the workshops a mess anyway, why not try this too......


I found a company on the interweb the other week that do break lines that can be assembeled at home and it got me thinking.

Hmmmmmmm!!!

How nice would it look if I had my rear line going through my swing arm??

How nice??

Well I reckon farkin nice!!

So I went about ordering the bits I needed from Venhill lines from Dorking in Surrey and had a chat with a very nice lady called Caroline and she put me right on all the bits I would need.

The first thing she told me I didnt know was that the pitch on the banjo bolts for a Honda is 1.25mm, I never knew that, did you?



Anyway, at the rear of the arm in just about the perfect spot there is a little tab that was just begging for a hole to be drilled through it. Up the other end there is another one..... wee will come back to that one later.



So I gave it a jab with a spikey thing called a spikey thing and gave my self a mark to drill



Now Im guessing that there is a two box section in the arm because the drill only went in about 50mm, but that said there is loads of room to wiggle the new line through.



Now then, after thinking about it I thought it might be wise to remove the shock as there are two holes each side of it I may be able to use to get a pull through up the inside of the arm, and also to turn the line out of the arm and up to the master cylinder.

So I did just that,

I took out the shock.




Removing the shock gave me a better angle to drill the hole at the top end of the arm.



First thing I did was shove a bit of wire through the first hole I drilled at the bottom of the arm and push it through to the hole on the left of where the shock would normally be.



Then I taped a length of string to it and pulles it through. I then got the same bit of wire and bent it to a hook shape and and pushed it through the hole to the right of where the shock would be, and fished about untill I found the string and then pulled it through.



My front break lines were factory made both ends, but I had just one end of the rear line factory made to make it easier to get through the arm.



Anyway, back to the top tab. It was a fooker to drill, much harder than the bottom one so I stuck my finger in the side hole to the right of the shock and found at the point where the tab was it wasnt hollow. CRAP!!!

Never mind, I'll sort that out later. I drilled a hole just below it.



Next I tied the string to the line and covered it in tape to make it pull through without snagging as it went up the inside of the swing arm.



And started pulling






untill it came out the other end



Now that wasnt hard to do now was it!?



Its really difficult to get an accurate length for the rear line so when I placed my order with Venhill I made sure the line was over long, so I had one made up to 1200mm



While I had the caliper offski I thought I would give it another lick of paint, so gave it a really good clean and then three coats of paint.



I then attached the rear of the line making sure I used new washers on both sides of the new banjo bolt.



I then went about getting the length of the line right.



I could have come round the front of the zorst, but I thought by going round the back I could put a coil in the line and when the swing arm is bouncing around it would absorb some of the boing.



Its a bit easier to see what I mean from a slightly different angle.



The outside of the steel braid has a clear plastic coat on it that has to be removed, about 25mm, to get the outside fitting over the line. Then about 4 to 5mm of steel braid was snipped off with some electrical side cutters so the olive would slip over the teflon inner tube.



Once it was all made up I just went round the end with a little black tape so it looked like the factory made ends.



And the jobs a good-un.

I'm gonna wait to bleed the line as I have a nice billet res on its was from my slit eyed little friends in Hong Kong.

Now ask yourself "How hard was that"

If a numb nut like me can do it then so can you my friend, so can you!!!

 

looks cool..it seems though that while riding, the brake line might start to rub in the holes of the swing arm and cause a leak..i know stainless steel line and all that, but anyhoo, it looks real clean and awesome write up.

 

Been that way for some time now mate, and to be honest, no signs of wear yet.

If you would like to see more of my bike just click on the link below to my youtube channel

YouTube - CBRRRT's Channel

Here's a little taster

YouTube - Awesome wheelie.

 

Really, not one reason!

I kidd, as far as streetfighters go, yours certainly stands out. Nice job.

 

I missed the bit with the motorcycle tire on a car rim. Is the wheel retention at the edges of the rim any different for a MC wheel vs. car?

 

A bunch of people with Hawk GTs do this mod:
Honda Hawk brake line through swingarm - a set on Flickr

Nicely cleans stuff up.

 

Thinking fishing the string for the brake line through the swing arm is aboot a 12 beer job, looks like a bit of beer would be needed not to pop a gasket for that one.

 

OK, different. About that brake line right over the exhaust pipe? Get's a little hot?

I asked at tht wheel store about ANY aftermarket wheel that was 17'X5.5" or 6" for the Honda 100mm bolt circle and he said they had nothing. Whats your sources?

Larry

 

Google alloy car wheels and look for a dealer that sells the in any number, this is the guy I use near me. The only problem I have is what one to buy. Now if we have places like this in lil o'l limeyland, then I'm sure you have 100's more in Merica

http://www.alloywheels.com/search.asp?numrecordposition=1&strSize=17%22&strkeywords=4x100%20et35,4x100%20et37,4x100%20et38,4x100%20et40,4x100%20et42,4x100%20et45,4x100/56-1%20et45&strSort=Low&Make=Honda&Model=Civic%20>00

The rear break line dont get hot because I left plenty of gap between it and the zorst.

And yes if you want to do it, there is not a reason in the world not to, now you know how :wink:

 

No, not even little bit

 

I think it's cool as hell that you wanted to try something new. Nevermind the hating, these fuckers never mod anything of consequence. I say good on ya, the fatter tire and rear end profile looks really sick for a streetfighter. Thank you for posting the first thing in a long time that doesn't have to do with a problem. Kudos.



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