84 VF500F Fixing it up

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by jmcallis, Jun 1, 2011.

  1. jmcallis

    jmcallis New Member

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    1984 VF500F Interceptor 31500 miles
    Almost made it home when I bought it for $500 dollars in November. I took it to a local
    hobby mechanic because it was cheaper. Only took $360 to get it running like a top. What he did was: Rebuild carbs (idle screw was broken off in one carb, slow jet was broken in other carb), synced carbs, removed two broken valve cover bolts, drained and flushed tank (gas full of water from setting outside), cleaned petcock and filter, replaced fuel filter, replaced torn radiator hose, replaced burned sparkplug wire with original used Honda wires (NOS). [​IMG]I got to keep the broken bits which is always nice. He made some recommendations on setting up the aftermarket needles about how to adjust the needles and mentioned some trouble areas I should get fixed in the near future [​IMG] He even typed up an invoice so I wouldn't forget. I could only get two different positions out of the five available for the needle since anything past the top two notches and the orange twist cap wouldn't catch. I only needed to adjust the needle to get rid a little hiccup from idle. It didn't seem to like it if I goosed it hard [​IMG]Old needles. Just by chance ebay had a set of magna needles 2VE and 2VF that I figured would be better than what I had. So I bought those and installed them. It did improve but I think it can be better. I forgot to snap a picture of them.
    Since I am making this my daily commuter the short day being 4.5 miles city one way and long day 15 miles mostly highway one way. Since I need it available to ride most of the week I am doing all the fixing up in stages. To start with I bought a new rear tire a BT45 110-90 from cycle gear and had them do the mount and balance and since I had the rear wheel off I went ahead and bought some new brake pads and put them on. Then I spent 40 minutes trying to bleed the air out which was a no go. I stopped by a different mechanic that rents out a corner in a Ducati shop down the street who had a vacuum bleeder and he bled it for me. Since January I have not done anything other than buy new mirrors [​IMG] since parking a motorcycle on newly laid gravel caused it to tip over break one of the mirrors. I would have concerned me more but the neighbor’s fence broke its fall and the mirror so it didn’t make it much past 45 degrees. [​IMG]There is the fence it didn't break.
    Currently, I am only getting around 33mpg in stop and go city driving so I think something’s amiss. I bought a 3 dollar feeler gauge and plan on very shortly adjusting the valves myself.
    A few weeks ago I picked up the front tire, another BT45 and some brake pads for the front. A matching EBC set to play nice with the ones on the rear. I also picked up a tire iron to mount the tire myself. I also noticed the front right forks weeping (after being told it was) so I talked to the titan himself Jamie Daugherty and I have in the works a: f2 rear shock, dust seals, oil seals, and springs. I plan on tearing the front end apart when everything arrives.
    I also noticed last week as the warmer weather arrived, since i have been riding daily since January, that it started to over heat. So I took apart the thermostat housing to find it empty. I bought a replacement from the auto store for six dollars, I think it goes to an 84 accord and activates at 180, that is close enough for me. The center was a little offset but it fit perfect. It still wants to overheat though. When the same person, who noticed the weeping, pointed out the radiator hoses looked like this.

    [​IMG] I thought that was weird so another trip to the auto I picked up some new hoses that look like they are going to fit when compared to the old ones with minimal trimming. [​IMG] I was going to switch them out today, which is why I left the cover off, but it started pouring rain by the time I got back out side. I am also waiting for in the mail are a new front and rear sprocket and chain that I got surprisingly from amazon all I did was match the part numbers I needed and saved 80 bucks. Theses ones.
    Amazon.com: EK Chain 530SRX Sport Quadra X-Ring Chain - 108 Links 703-530SRX-108: Automotive
    Amazon.com: Sunstar Rear Sprocket - Steel - 44T 2-533244: Automotive
    Amazon.com: Sunstar Front Sprocket - Steel - 15T 51515: Automotive
    These are the craigslist photos the guy used and how it looked when I bought it.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    This is how it looks now for the most part. I having fairing off right now since I am working on the radiator hoses. I also installed a bypass switch using a T tap set.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    I put the old headlight back on. I thought the CB350 light looked a little goofy mostly because it was mounted high and not to the forks like it should be. I also replaced all the turn signals with short stalk lights so it would match.
    What the future holds is mostly cosmetic. Maybe a projection headlight like Ive seen on some other bikes in this forum. I plan to take some acetone to the black paint(already chipping off) and hope to uncover some of the original paint. Find out why the dash light keeps blowing fuses(probably a short). Some Stainless steal brake and clutch lines. and possibly some vtr1000 brake and clutch master cylinders and levers, only so I would stop worrying about breaking off another screw and drill bit in the cap. I hope to get to some or all of those before summer is over.
     
  2. wsfarrell

    wsfarrell New Member

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    Good work. Sounds like you live by Nike's motto of some years ago: Just Do It.
     
  3. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    31.5k is a decent amount of mileage on the VF500F's valve train. From your description it looks like you have a good find with the local hobbyist/tech. He has very reasonable pricing!

    If I could ask, did he inspect the valve train and adjust the valve lash while he was going over the bike? Curious to know how your valve stems, cams and followers are doing.

    Good deal on getting the bike up and running and keep us posted on the progress.
     
  4. jmcallis

    jmcallis New Member

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    I put the new hose on today. It looks as though the bent hose were impeding the flow of water enough that last weekend when I replaced the thermostat that the coolant was green. And the stuff I got out of the two lower pipes today was this color.[​IMG] The long hose fit but it made a dip that trimming a little off both ends fixed that and the short hose only needed one end trimmed. [​IMG] I pulled the thermostat housing apart to show how offset it is. Not much really. [​IMG] I think the other side show it better. [​IMG] The final result ended up like this and when I let it get up to temp the fan came on and then off and didn't get any warmer. [​IMG] Although the only way to really tell is for me to take it out.
    I plan on checking the valve train over this weekend. I even have a tool I made for the CB550. 10mm [​IMG][​IMG] Although my manual says it needs an 8mm, well see. To be honest he never said anything specific to the valve train or mentioned in person if he adjusted the valves. Since It doesn't state it on his invoice probably not. Now that I think about it seems kind of odd since he did have at least the front valve cover off removing the two broken valve cover bolts. No noises are coming from there that shouldn't be and other than that hiccup from idle, only when goosed, it runs fine even back in January it started first time every time and idled just fine. I guess I am only trying to justify why I haven't checked them earlier aside from it being cold and wet up here in the Northwest.
    EDIT:clarification
     
  5. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    The tappet nut is 8mm on the VF500F.

    For reference the OEM offset wrench has 10mm on one side and 8mm on the other:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Good luck with the lash adjustment (use two feeler gauges under the rocker) and let us know how you make out.
     
  6. jmcallis

    jmcallis New Member

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    It's good to know that before I pulled it apart. I wanted the clymer manual to be wrong. I guess I'll have to make another in an 8mm. Easy enough although I'll have to buy the two tools since the last one was made at the parents place 100 miles away and even if I took the bike the gas involved would be as much as buying the parts. I like that they have an extra tool box full of wrenches and sockets that they don't need but won't throw away.
     
  7. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    Good deal. Always a fan of custom tools.

    One of my favorites on the Forum, creaky's homemade tappet tool:

    [​IMG]
     
  8. jmcallis

    jmcallis New Member

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    Okay, Honestly I thought you were either teasing me or harassing creaky (sailboat fuel or muffler bearings and the like). One important detail is missing from that picture and I only happened to realize it while at the hardware store buying bolts. It is a square drive deck screw which so happens to be just barely over 3mm across and the right shape. And in this case and with horse shoes and hand grenades that is close enough.
     
  9. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    No sarcasm intended, I was giving a straight-up compliment to creaky's Yankee ingenuity.
     
  10. jmcallis

    jmcallis New Member

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    It is pretty amazing what 15 cents can get you.
     
  11. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    A good motto for sure!
     
  12. jmcallis

    jmcallis New Member

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    This weekend didn't turn out like I hoped. All I got done was get the new tire on the front along with the brake pads. The valves will have to wait. I fought the old tire most of Friday afternoon before I got it off. I had trouble breaking the bead when I realized I had a pile of boards next to me and made a bead breaker out of a discarded eight inch board and a three foot. The tire after the bead was broken came off as easy as a bicycle tire. But I wasted too much time not breaking the bead and the weather cooled off and I didn't want to fight a cold tire. Saturday after it warmed to an amazing 85 degrees, the last time it was this warm was back in September, and the tire went on easy. I had to pump it up to nearly 80 pounds though to get the bead to seat, that might be normal. Old compared to new. [​IMG] It was really easy to switch out the brake pads after I previously had done the back. Still some meat left unlike the back, I think the previous owners were heavy on the back brake.[​IMG] Some more parts showed up today. It says right on the package they fit I hope thats right.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    I also have my tools ready for the valves. Need to find a handle for the screw though.[​IMG]
    As far as the overheating goes it doesn't get any higher than this even after 20 miles on the freeway. [​IMG]
    This date code it means it is old right. [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 6, 2011
  13. jeremyr62

    jeremyr62 New Member

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    Not sure that's the date code. It's usually a 4 digit number, the first two give the year and the last two the week of manufacture.

    EDIT. No you are right, it is the date code. Just a very old one. I think it means the tyre could be week 41 1994 or week 41 1984(!).
     
  14. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    [​IMG]

    I am not sure the hollow socket will reach the tappet nut. You may need a longer socket or more offset on the handle.

    Keep us posted!
     
  15. jmcallis

    jmcallis New Member

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    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
    This is how the plugs looked before adjustment. Adjusting the valves turned out better than I thought. The operating temperature is down and steady without the fan bypass on. Overall torque is better throughout the rpms, turning at intersections I only need to shift down once not twice, and when on the freeway response is quicker, I didn't realize I was waiting before. The cams all looked like they had no wear or very even wear across the lobes, if someone told me they installed new ones I would believe them. Is this normal for a bike with 31k miles. I also put on the new chain and sprockets and flushed the radiator. I got a deck screw that was too short and ended up using some needle nose vise grips to hold it when tightening the valves and my homemade tool was too fat to fit in that tiny area. I ended up using a 8mm combination wrench which worked fine with out any clearance issues. I've already put 60 miles on it and everything seems to be just dandy. Funny, I liked how it kicked before but now it just seems fierce.
     
  16. invisible cities

    invisible cities New Member

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    [​IMG]

    Well done!

    Glad this worked out and thank you for the update.

    It is nice to have another 500 out there tuned up and running to its potential.

    Are the F2 shock conversion and rebuilt forks next on the clipboard?

    Keep up the great work.
     
  17. jmcallis

    jmcallis New Member

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    I Started working graveyard at the start of this past month and have not had time to do anything to the bike. My f2 rear shock conversion is paid for and on its way from Daugherty Motorsports.

    My fuel mileage each tank after the valve job went 30(previously), 36, 40, to 43 city driving. I took it on a 170 round trip a week ago and it maintained 46 mpg at 75 mph. On that same trip I discovered 75 mph really is the cruising speed as staying at 80 mph caused the bike to overheat after 55 miles.

    My blinkers and horn quit working, but I discovered the inexpensive fuses from harbor freight are only an ordinary cheap product. While looking into the blinkers I checked all the wiring to see why my dash light never works. It finally quit blowing fuses even though I did not do anything other than poke and pull at the wires. Before it took five minutes and the dash lights went out. It only started to bother me since I go to work at midnight and going with to flow of traffic means traveling at 70 in a 50 mph zone, its like the police do not work at night or something.

    I have a new clutch and springs but have yet to install it, I am not sure what I am waiting for.
     
  18. sjona2011

    sjona2011 New Member

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    it would have been week 41 of 1994, as far as i'm aware of, anything before the 90's didnt have a tire date code
     
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