Linked brake bleeding major problem help please

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by TheBeeDeeGee, May 2, 2013.

  1. TheBeeDeeGee

    TheBeeDeeGee New Member

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    So I was planning on bleeding just the front, and the clutch. That went no problem, Well now my rear pedal has no pressure what so ever! I cannot figure out how to bleed the air out. I've got the rear tire off, and I have tried ever damn bleed point and nothing comes out. I'm using a speed bleeder (might vac) it will not pull anything out of the rear master cylinder.
     
  2. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    Just to clarify, when you say speed bleeder (might vac), you are not using an actual speed bleeder nipple and a mighty-vac are you? Also, did you completely drain the line and allow air to enter in through the reservoir? or did you keep it full of fluid?
     
  3. OZ VFR

    OZ VFR Member

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    First you bleed the centre nipple of your right caliper, then the centre nipple of your left caliper, then you have to remove the left caliper and tilt it anticlockwise about 30*, you then bleed the nipple on the PCV valve below the rear of the fuel tank (on a 5th gen), then you bleed the left nipple of the rear caliper.
    All in all a pain in the arse.
    You will need a fair bit of fluid, and it helps to have someone with you if you don't have a speed bleeder.
    Good luck.
     
  4. TheBeeDeeGee

    TheBeeDeeGee New Member

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    Yeah, I guess I may have tried to bleed one of the wrong nipples on the front in the beginning, and got some air in there. I bled the front master cylinder no problem, keeping fluid in as it went down, front feels nice. Then I pushed the pedal when I was finished......shit.

    Thanks for the info cuelho1, I tried to follow a guide on vfrdiscussion with pictures and stuff, but I still couldn't understand the order.

    So the center nipples on the front calipers are connected to the rear master cylinder?
     
  5. TheBeeDeeGee

    TheBeeDeeGee New Member

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    I'm using just the Might Vac, I haven't installed speed bleeders.

    Yes, I did accidently allow air in the clutch line because the cylinder ran dry, but I bled it out no problem. The brake MS I kept full of fluid.

    Oh yeah I just remembered, after I finished the front, I opened the rear master cylinder and it was dry. I filled it back up, and now can't get any of the bleeders to have fluid come out.
     
  6. TheBeeDeeGee

    TheBeeDeeGee New Member

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    I've got a serious problem. I cannot get the air out of the system. I'm using this method Bleeding/fluid Replacement On Linked Brakes W/abs On 6Th Generation (The Ultimate Guide) - Maintenance Guides - VFR Discussion

    but no fluid is coming out, and the rear master cylinder fluid level does not drop. There is absolutely no pressure in the rear pedal. I have removed and tilted the front caliper and pushed the rear pedal and actuated the piston on the front caliper just like the process says, but no fluid. I think I have air in the line betweem the rear master cylinder and the front caliper, but I cannot get it to bleed out.
     
  7. TheBeeDeeGee

    TheBeeDeeGee New Member

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    My honda shop wants $238 bucks to change the fluids! I've gotta figure this out.
     
  8. Scubalong

    Scubalong Official Greeter?

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  9. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    The 6 Gen is slightly different than the 5 Gen as only the front left caliper is linked to the rear. Note that if it was completely empty, you will need to pump the peddle quite a bit to get fluid into the line. The mighty-vac will help as you will not have open/close the bleeder but you will still have to pump the peddle. Having someone help you makes it a little easier as someone can always keep an eye on the reservoir. Nothing worse than having fluid start flowing and then introducing more air into the system! Make sure all other bleeders are closed except the one your bleeding from. If you do not have actual speed bleeders on the calipers, make sure that you use the mighty-vac and keep it "pressurized" or you risk allowing air to enter the system via the bleeder. Be patient, it will take a little time to get things flowing if the line is completely empty or has a large amount of air in it.

    When it comes to the "linked" components, tilt the front left caliper as in the instructions and open the bleeder and press the rear peddle. Once you get fluid flowing out the FL bleeder, close that one and open the PCV bleeder and (this is where a helper comes in handy), press down the rear break peddle and hold it down. Go to the FL caliper and press the secondary master cylinder piston towards the caliper. Release both rear peddle and secondary MC piston, press down again on the rear peddle and hold it there, this should force the secondary MC to move back out and allow you to repeat the process.

    Good Luck.
     
  10. TheBeeDeeGee

    TheBeeDeeGee New Member

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    If there is air I should just be able to open that inner bleeder on the front left caliper and suck all the air our correct? I got the fluid in the rear master cylinder to drop a little by doing that, but now I can't get anymore out
     
  11. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    Yes and No, you still have to pump the peddle to allow the fluid to enter the line. This is similar to a gun magazine, once you pull the trigger you have to release the trigger and pull it again to load the next round.
     
  12. TheBeeDeeGee

    TheBeeDeeGee New Member

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    I pump the pedal, but no fluid enters, there is no resistance at all.

    I have the might vac on the front left center bleeder.....It's pressurized....I pumped the pedal and keep the vac pressurized......not fluid, no dropping of the fluid level in the rear container. I don't get what's going on. It should be sucking the air out and moving the fluid but it's not.
     
  13. Shmerick

    Shmerick New Member

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  14. TheBeeDeeGee

    TheBeeDeeGee New Member

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  15. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    See if you can get air/fluid out of the rear caliper. There should be one line that is connected directly to the rear MC and not the PCV. If you were able to get some fluid to flow "I got the fluid in the rear master cylinder to drop a little by doing that...", I would think that your MC is still working. How much pressure are you using with the mighty-vac? You don't want to use too much.

    P.S. Pardon the delays in responses, I am still at work...
     
  16. TheBeeDeeGee

    TheBeeDeeGee New Member

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    no problem man I really appreciate the help. I've been using the vac at 10-15psi. I'm trying the rear ones now, I got a little to come out, then nothing. I cant figure out where the fluid is in the system. It's like its all air except for whats in the master cylinder.
     
  17. TheBeeDeeGee

    TheBeeDeeGee New Member

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    I'm guessing my rear master cylinder isnt working, if it was working it doesnt seem like this would be happnening
     
  18. TheBeeDeeGee

    TheBeeDeeGee New Member

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    Ok, I pumped the rear held it down, then opened the middle bleeder behind the tank, let air out, closed bleeder, released the pedal. I repeated this a few times and the fluid level ROSE in the rear master cylinder.
     
  19. TheBeeDeeGee

    TheBeeDeeGee New Member

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    Ok, thanks for the quick replies.....I'm an idiot. The gasket in the rear MC was black and bowl shaped, and never having opened it before, and the fact that there was fluid on top, I thought I was looking at fluid inside the cylinder.


    I removed the gasket and everything is fine.
     
  20. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    :rofl: It happens sometimes, but you have to admit, that is pretty funny. Glad you figured it out. The next step would have been to rip apart the MC and see what was going on. That would have been a lot more involved!
     
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