99 vfr electrical problems

Help i have a 99 vfr 800 the problem is i keep frying r/r's.Stator checks out good.I changed the head lamp bulbs to 55/60 watt that is when all the problems started.any help would be greatly appriciated.

 

How does the wiring look? Is it burnt anywhere? Are there any loose/corroded connections? Do you have any other electrical accessories? Have you tried going back to a standard bulb?

 

all the connections and wires look goodgoing to get new bulbs.A guy at the parts store said to try running a ground from the batt to the r/r.he worked on them for 27 years said that would work

 

I just bought a new connector kit from the local dealer. I had gone in to check price on a Stator after replacing a rectifier. The parts manager had exlpained that the Heavy lead Rectifier connectors burn up and need replacing. They were burnt and a bit melted at the spade connectors. Soldering the connector kits in was not hard at all. the kit came with everything.

 

I just had a problem last week. I thought it might be the r/r but in doig some troubleshooting, I found the wires at the connector where the stator plugs into the harness were burnt (one clean thru). So I just cut the connector out and sliced the wires together with solderless connectors and it works fine now.

 

I can't believe Honda hasn't resolved the issue with those three yellow wires yet. Sheesh!

Pokey, keep an eye on that replacement connector; I hear that they melt just as easily as the origianls.

 

Ok, I haven't ridden since I posted last because I can't find a way to diagnose this problem, which in my case was not solved for longer than a week after the connector replacement. I thought I had found a link to a diagnostic procedure here. Now I can't find it, if it was here. From what I have found, checking the diodes and resisitance is not always reliable....

Has anyone found a source for lighter stators that allow the engine to rev up quicker?

 

The stator is part of the electrical charging system and has nothing to do with how fast the engine revs. Elextrex had an online list of the procedure, I think, for checking the stator and r/r. Have you checked the stator itself for burnt windings?

 

I was told lightening it up would help get better response. I will not buy any stator until I am sure it is needed. I am going to check the whole thing today and tomorrow. As soon as I find enough info on specifications I can make a diagnosis.

I just found somewhere that a bad battery will take out a new r/r. If that is the case I may have found my problem. I'll check elextrex next, thanks

This had a great explanation of the basics: http://web.archive.org/web/20041012073817/http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/

 

I had a problem with mine and after alot of diagnosis i had to change the R/R, Battery and the Stator. About a month after I changed them it started to only charge about 12.1 to 12.3 volts. I rechecked all the R/R and stator connections and they were fine it turned out to be the single red wire connector on the same side as the R/R, about 10 inches in front of it right under the screw that holds the front of the rear cowl on. Check that connector to see if it is dirty or burnt. Mine was just really dirty. After a good cleaning my charging system was back to 13.8 to 14.0. Just my .02.

 

Pokey,

You might be confusing flywheel with the stator. I don't have a diagram in front of me, but I know on MX bikes a lighter flywheel will allow the engine to rev quicker. It also makes it easier to stall the engine. The stator is not the same as a flywheel, at least to my knowledge it isn't.

 

The stator is the non-moving part of the "alternator" that is built into the LH engine case. It is the part with the windings; lightening it will do no good. Some of the 5g (or was it 6g) had grounding issues, does anyone know anything about that?

My suggestion would be to check the entire charging system, ground points and connectors, looking for burned/melted wires and connectors, loose/damaged ground wires, loose/corroded ground points, etc. The Honda Service Manual will tell you how to test the system with a multimeter.

 

1)I have checked all the connectors: Voltage supply from 30A fuse to the r/r was corroded, all others were good ie: no corrosion, loose connectors or melted harnesses
2)Voltage drop test across all ground connectors is 0V
3) no wires are shorted to ground
4) no wires are open

I cleaned, fluxed and solder repaired the connector in question...
I have 12V engine off and 13.8 engine running. I do not know the amperage output or have a spec.
The only specs I have from the Honda Maual that I have Are:
RED/White wire= Batt. voltage----ok
Charging coil line= .1 - 1.0 ohms ---ok
Ground = Continuity -----ok

I have called the local dealer, They told me the only tool that is used to test the diodes is the Fluke 88 meter, no other special tool is needed. They are also willing to get me a manual or let me use theirs. They also said that there would be no charge for a bench test of the r/r. Unfortunately the last day they are open this year is tomorrow and I work till the end of the week.

Both r/r's and both batteries are going into work with me no later that Friday. I will try to get a friend to take ther r/r's to the dealer tomorrow. According to the first tests, I have two bad r/r's. I will recheck them with a second meter before moving on.
Vman38,
A lighter flywheel does allow for faster throttle response, and will aggravate stalling problems.
Heavier flywheels "add" more torque momentum by keeping the engine spinning at lower speeds.
Your post reminded me of the flywheel weight I added to my 4cyl CJ Jeep in order to gain low end power. I was not impressed by the gain.
Rev,
You're right too, lightening the stator windings should have no effect. I found an article thet said the same about the grounds. The ground connection in question was on the right outside of the frame just under the tank/seat. Supposedly the wire guage was too small. My connection was good and clean. The suggested fix was an additional ground lead from the frame to the battery neg. terminal.
elizilla,
I wish I could tell you that the new connectors have been tested thoroughly, but no. I have only ridden sparingly since soccer season ended in November.... I coach two teams and play on two teams.

 

Try this for a fault finding diagram
http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_fault_finding.html

 

Since you have already done the voltage drop tests throughout, I'm betting on the battery.

As batteries age, their internal resistance rises due to plate sulfation.

Since the regulator works by monitoring battery voltage, current flow has to keep increasing to overcome the increased resistance. Sustained high amperage would explain the burned connectors.

If you have a battery charger with selectable output, you can check for this at home. Discharge the battery to roughly 50% or less (12.34V), set the charger on 5 amps, and monitor actual charging voltage with your meter. If the charger has to apply more than 16V to get 5 amps in, I'd replace the battery.

 

Thanks, the wiring diagram alone helped out! Both r/r's I have are good

 

BINGO!! Two bad batteries. I also checked fluid level in both "sealed batteries" after the test to find the tops of the plates sulfated and dry.
Today was a beutifull day! Three tanks full and 70 deg. F. woo hoo!!!

P.S. the system showed a 2.6A charge with good or bad batteries. I used a high current inductive amp meter set on 20A scale on the battery positive cable.