VFR VTEC (2005 ABS) Regulator / Rectifier - Dead?

Hi All,

Trying to figure out what the story is with my electrics here. Recently the bike wouldn't start, but headlight/etc all worked ok. I trickle charged the battery, and it started. A few days later, same problem.

I have checked all the Stator / RR connections - all good.

Checked the stator - 0.3 ohms across all pairs of three yellow wires and no continutity to ground. Also putting out plenty of AC while running.

Also checked the RR as per the Haynes manual and all good.

When the battery is charged it is giving about 13.5 volts, but once started I am only getting about 12.4 across the terminals, and this does not increase with RPMs. After that the battery gives about the same with the engine off. I'm thinking that the battery doesn't like the starting process without being recharged, and that is why IT drops to 12 and a half, but my question is this:

Even with a bad (possibly) battery, once the bike is started and running, should I be getting 13.5 or so across the terminals? If I should, as the stator checks out fine, is it probably the RR, even though the tests say it's ok?

Thanks a million!

 

Welcome to the forum, and welcome to the world of VFR electrical problems. I know you did some testing, but click on this link, and go to post #9. Did you do all of that? If not, do it, and report back here. You are not alone.

http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/39277-How-to-fix-common-regulator-Stator-failures

 

Thanks, that's a great thread. I'll get on it tonight after work and let you know how I get on!

 

I think the battery is gone though. I hope it is that not the RR or stator, as being cheaper.
If there is a short in the battery, it will drain and the stator/RR wont be able to charge it.
Also the bike will cut out at some point.

 

honda00 - Welcome to the MadHouse!:welcome:

Its always sad to see a first post reporting problems but you will quickly discover there is a lot of knowledge available here, and hopefully you will be able to get your VFR running properly in time to enjoy the brilliant biking roads over in Ireland.

:vtr2:

I guess at the moment you are busy ploughing your way through "the drill"- which although drafted for the 5th gen bikes, is also relevant to 6th gen bikes. If you need further help - just post up and we will try to steer you through.

When you get a chance, please swing by the "introductions" sub-forum and tell us a bit more about you and post up at least one photo of your VFR - otherwise folks will be raggin on you fairly soon! Its a good idea to update your forum profile "My Profile" link at the top of the page to include the specs of your bike and a rough location city/town, that way they will appear beside all your posts. If you are very lucky you may find someone nearby on here who is will to help out with the troubleshooting - especially if you have a beer fridge.

Meantime - take care.



SkiMad

 

The simplest and cheapest thing is to charge the battery overnight and then get it load tested. Its quite possible all you have is a bad battery, but can't make those determinations until you charge (or try to charge) your battery.

Make sure you also check all your grounds, connections, etc. Battery posts need to be free and clean.

 

Also inspect the signal wire going to your R/R It's what tells the R/R how much voltage the battery needs. Its White with a Black strip going into the Bike side and a Black wire going into the R/R

 

Anytime charging problems become evident inspect 2 plugs for melting or burning b4 suspecting stator or r/r: plug between stator and r/r (3 yellow wires) and the plug atop the starter relay.

 

The last two posts are very common issues with early 6th gens. Also, make sure the battery negative is properly connected to the frame and to the separate negatives from the r/r.

A simple quick and dirty test for the r/r and stator is to simply disconnect the battery once it is started. The bike should have 14 ish volts and stay running, just dont try to change the load (turn on more lights) as it can not keep up with fast load changes.

As always, post what you do and have found.

 

Hi Pilskin,

Thanks again, I see you are form Morris County, NJ - I'm originally from NJ. Lived in Mt. Arlington, Madision, Chaham for years - when I was on my '98 F3!

I did all the checks at that link. Stator is putting out 30+ V when running across all three pins - At least it seems that is ok! All connections / grounds are good, all tight and nothing fried.

I'm thinking I should have the battery load tested at this point. I'm leaning towards the battery or R/R...

 

Thanks skimad4x4, I can't find the introductions sub-forum (I must be having a bad morning).

I worked through this: https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf‎, and all is good until part C. For this, I have readings of "OL" on all tests between RR and stator wires. Multimeter is on diode/test and is showing V.

Thanks again!

 

Try this link - http://vfrworld.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/53-Introductions

As for testing the RR and stator. It can get a bit confusing but basically all 4 components of your VFR's charging circuit (battery, RR, Stator and loom) need to be in good order and a fault in one can cause problems for the others.

As for the electrosport fault finding sheet - I take it you ended up at the "RR is at fault - replace it with a new one and return to START" ? If so, I think you have your answer. (You will not be the first!!!!!!!!!)

If you need a new RR, please be wary of going with the cheapest you can find in Tbay. It is well worth reading through the other posts on the link in post #2 above - as you will see some makes of RR are not entirely fault free.

Personally I think given the potential hassle and damage which can be caused by a failing RR, I would suggest you get one from http://www.roadstercycle.com/ as they seem to be among the most reliable out there even if they are a bit more expensive to import to Ireland. If you send them the precise bike details, they can now supply a ready assembled unit.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.



SkiMad

 

Hi All,

Was away from the bike for the long weekend, but back at it again now. The bike dies the minute the battery is disconnected. Would that point more fingers at the RR? Again, the stator tests fine on all fronts.

Thanks

 

Thanks SkiMad,

No, I didn't end up with "RR fault" on the flowchart, when I get to part C, I get OL for all readings, but there is nowhere to go on the flowchart if you get OL for all readings...

 

Hmm I have a feeling that ambiguous results can be a downside of some digital multi-meters. Sometime the trusty analogue meter gives clearer results.

Anyway it sounds like you have a few choices - either continue to attempt to test RR or just replace it.

If you want to continue testing then your dealer should be able to do that or you will find there is youtube video embedded in the first post of this thread http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/39277-How-to-fix-common-regulator-Stator-failures which explains how to test the RR. If you prefer written instructions then try this link:

http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/diode-testing-guide.pdf

Either way I rather suspect you have joined the massed ranks of VFR owners with a duff RR.



SkiMad

 

Great link, thanks. Looks like I'm going to roll up my sleeves and give the RR a full diagnosis!

 

Took a while, but the R/R tests fine according to: http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/diode-testing-guide.pdf

Also just had the battery tested and it's fine, plenty of cranking amps, no dead cells.

Bottom line is:

Stator definitely good (not shorted, resistances fine, putting out 40AC at revs)
R/R tests good according to above.
Battry good.

At idle and 5000 RPM, the bike is only charging at ~12.8 V DC across the battery terminals.

I'm thinking it's the R/R still. Even though the diodes test ok, apparently there are more to these things than the diodes, and they can only be tested by a dealer?

 

I'm forgetting a bit about the VFR's wiring right now, but be sure to check the wiring leading from the R/R to the battery. There's a connector in there that can develop corrosion. Regardless of whether it looks ok or not, you should hit it (and the 3P connector b/w the stator and R/R) with some Oxgard or similar.

 

Solved!

Hi All,

Thanks for all the helpful posts. Bottom line was this is another case of the RR testing good, but being bad. I got a second hand one off a wrecked bike, plugged it in and bang - 14+ volts at 5k.

Thanks again.