more modification questions

Discussion in '7th Generation 2010-Present' started by f3racer, Jul 22, 2014.

  1. f3racer

    f3racer New Member

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    Looking at alot of things i have done through the years to other bikes i am definately finding out the hard way that the aftermarket support for the vfr12 is small. so im digging in my bag to see if anything ive done will work with this bike.

    If you have done any of these things please chime in.

    suspension- i got ahold of jamie daughtery and got a good price on suspension set up but i cant have my bike down for a long period of time so it will be up to me to do the work. springs, gold valving, and 5w fluid will be the meat and potatoes of the set up.

    Brakes- i have never dealt with an abs bike and im looking to see if a set of steel braided lines will work for this bike. if i cant find them then ill find some from another bike to see if i can make it work. Not sure it ss lines will mess with the ABS or linked system yet. short levers will be added.

    Throttle- the last few bikes ive owned have all had the r6 1/6th turn throttle tube installed. i loved it and it worked on my 07cbr600 ccs bike, my rc51, my cbr1k and my wifes sv650. i will be looking to see if it works with this one.

    exhaust- im not finding one i like that looks to fit with the hard bags except the akra and Leovince. those are a little more than i like to spend so the next thing will be to make my own set up. i have several mid pipes from different bikes and an older r1 gytr carbon can laying at the house. i will also be cutting out the cats. im a decent welder.

    airbox and intake- i will be pulling the airbox off to look at insulating it from the bottom and possible porting of the intake tubes. i did this on both cbr's and my rc51 and it turned out well. especially after tuning. bmc filter will be added as well.

    fueling- the don guhl ecu flash seems to be right on but i will adding to that the bazzaz with quick shift and tc to go with the reflash.

    luggage- still debating that one. i found oem side bags for 1090 with free shipping but the shad set up is at 500 with brackets. not sure how i feel about the extra brackets. same thing with the top box.

    seat-corbin is the way i will be going.

    appearance and aero- zero gravity touring shield and oem honda air deflectors will be added. all of the silver bodywork will be painted gloss black to match the tank. the tank will be repainted to get rid of the scrathes, and i will be adding a clearbra kit, http://clearbra-kits.com/store/pc/v...bModel=null&nSubSubsubModel=null&maincat=3986 , all oem honda carbon fiber pieces will be going on as well.
     
  2. dynajohn

    dynajohn New Member

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    F3 racer I ran into the same lack of aftermarket performance support when I bought my 2013 F model. On the performance side there is not much available compared to the true performance bikes. Slip on's, power commander & Bazzaz fuel controllers, and a K&N air filter were about all there was available until very recently. Now we have an option for a ECU re-flash from Don Guhl. The good news is that there is some real potential in this motor with some simple changes. The exhaust system is the first place to start. Remove the cat and fab & install a 2 into 1 collector to replace it. Replace the stock intake filter, and have Guhl re-flash your ECU for $350 including a revised fuel map, increased rev limit and removal of the 1st & 2nd gear restrictions. Insulating the bottom of the air box is SOP and helps prevent hot soaking the intake air. There are a number of us on the VFR forums that have gotten 167 to 168 RWHP and 93 to 95 ft/lbs TQ with these basic changes. Not bad with no aftermarket internal engine parts. As far as the exhaust goes there aren't that many choices especially with luggage installed. The best choice for me was the Leo Vinci since the same pipe can be a high or a low mount. It comes with two muffler mount links so it can be changed. The Two Bros pipe has a low mount for use with luggage. I believe the Dam pipe will also work with luggage. I don't believe there is much if any real difference between them as far as performance is concerned.
     
  3. f3racer

    f3racer New Member

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    Thanks for the help. I'm in the process of fabbing my exhaust right now. Where are the cats on this thing?
     
  4. cornerexit

    cornerexit New Member

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    Front cylinder bank headers, remove, cut, and weld in some high quality SS 2 into 1.
     
  5. dynajohn

    dynajohn New Member

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    When you get the header section off you can't miss it. Located on the bottom left side of header assembly, looks like a small shoe box, 2 pipes coming into the front, one exiting the rear. Easy setup to fab a 2 into one collector for replacement of the cat, no jig required. I suggest you weld a SS 18mm sampling bung into the exit pipe from the new 2/1 collector for future tuning with an WB A/F sensor. It will need to be on the right side of the SS pipe after the new 2/1 collector to clear. I used a 45 degree SS weld bung & plug. Best to temporarily fit the modified header and mark the location for the 18mm bung before welding it in.
     
  6. f3racer

    f3racer New Member

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    Will do! Thanks.
     
  7. f3racer

    f3racer New Member

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  8. Tpoppa

    Tpoppa New Member

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    Out of curiousity, why are you wanting to add SS lines? Are you going to track it? If not, I would be of the opinion to leave them alone. I have C-ABS on both my 2010 CBR600RR and my 1200. The brakes on both are just about perfect for the street.
     
  9. f3racer

    f3racer New Member

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    Everything can be improved upon in my opinion. With the exception of 1, every street bike I've ever owned in 23 years of riding on the street has had braided lines and benefitted from it. I do plan on a track day or 2.

    I will however say that I have never owned a bike with abs, much less linked.
     
  10. Tpoppa

    Tpoppa New Member

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    I have 3 bikes at the moment, all have abs. Honda's Combined ABS are the best streetbike brakes you can get, IMO. I would imagine SS lines would work with C-ABS. I'd venture a guess that ABS would engage more frequently due to the stronger intial bite from the SS lines. It could also increase the stress on the pump which may or may not be an issue. Personally, I don't think it would be any better unless you are trying to avoid brake fade during a race. YMMV.

    It's any easy enough change, and you could always change it back.
     
  11. f3racer

    f3racer New Member

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    didnt think about this part. thanks. i might have to re-evaluate.
     
  12. Tpoppa

    Tpoppa New Member

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    I am also thinking about the Bazzaz TC. If you do it post a review.
     
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