If anyone needs carbs.....

Discussion in '3rd & 4th Generation 1990-1997' started by Leedawg, Aug 28, 2014.

  1. Leedawg

    Leedawg New Member

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  2. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    I bought my replacemennt ones for half of that! Little steep imho, if you need them though only you can determine it. Here is the thing though; If I am gona pay a premium price for them (carburetors) I want them "virgin" end of story. Looking at those pictures, I know that a monkey was "in" them, who had no business being "in" them. Those gold tabs should be in the UP postion, those are not, just saying, I have seen these type of carburetors in my past life that have been all boogered up with various vacumm leaks and other fun things. In the end, if your gona pay a premium price, you might as well hold oot :canada: (speeling) for un-molested/finger-fuked ones. This is just my experience and my opinion :mech: Cheers.
     
  3. Leedawg

    Leedawg New Member

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    I highly value your opinion seeing how I don't crap about these bikes! Thanks for the heads up. I had looked at places like bike bandit and they really want a premium for thiers. Thanks for the super good eye! Was looking at float bowl seals and rebuild kits today and this looked like a decent deal to my FNG self. But I'm glad you pointed out the details I missed!
     
  4. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    Glad I could help you oot :canada: speeling :pound:

    My gen3 carbs are different than your gen4 ones, but they share the same upper air box/lid/plate and some other parts I am sure. I learned this the hard way, from the basket case bike I trailored home. Once I got into it, bearing in mind that I invested in new oem float bowl kits and needle seat kits from Honda. I could not get a few of the slides to rise through using compressed air. Upon closer inspection I learned that the velocity stacks were monkeyed around with, basically, the previous owner must have taken off the plate of the carburetors (cardinal no-no.) You never wana de-rack these carburetors to work on them. Any way, I was able to get a replacement set that made a happy ending to this story. I am the Pimp/Whore Master of Gen3 bikes in South FL now. Wut will that get me? >> :loco:
     
  5. Leedawg

    Leedawg New Member

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    I do know the de racking is the ultimate cardinal sin with gen 3 and 4. I sent mine to Squirrelman to do first time because I was a little intimidated. Mine was a garage rescue that had been sitting with gas in it until everything varnished up good and solid tight. It was so bad the throttle was stuck. Anyhoo, its back together and running. Already did a plu and play rectifier swap yesterday because charging issue. Looking at Mosfet kit from Sportster to upgrage as soon as I can pry my ass off the bike for a couple days. Been 9 months in getting it up and running. I want to ride!
     
  6. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    http://roadstercycle.com/index.htm

    Excellet dude, and super product, I have one on my latest garage rescue without any issues. I paid $250 for my replacement carburetors, not 125. Had to invest in another petrol tank as the original one was toasted. Good thing was that it probabaly did not permit the original monkeys to ride the bike and kept the mileage low, (15,000.) Cheers and get ur arse on that bike and RIDE! :vtr2: I need to start commuting on my stuff as soon as I get used to the work I am doing, don't wana be known as the "motorcycle arse-hole."
     
  7. Leedawg

    Leedawg New Member

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    Glad to hear the Roadster RR worked well for you! Did you do the Crimp and Solder 20AA or the plug and play? Also, did you go for the fuse or circuit breaker model? The RR I ordered seemed to do the trick for short term fix, but I would like to put a rock solid charging system in seeing how these bikes are prone to these problems. Thanks for all the advice and info!
    If I ever make it back down to the southern reaches of Florida I will by you a beer for being the "Pimp/Whore Master of Gen3 bikes in South FL ". Sloppy Joes, or are you not at the circus at the end of the road?
    Ride on man! :vtr2:

    Good luck with the new JOB!

    PS. Next time the carbs come off I fully plan on doing it myself. I didn't have a shop to do it in. Met a new neighbor who has a small shop and a good wrench too. Helps to have 2 sets of eyes going into 4 carbs. I admit, I was scared I was going to screw it up.
     
  8. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    I went with Roadster Series R/R, installed 2 #10 wires back to battery instead of relying on Hondas two connectors and thinner gauge wires. Logic told me that if one of two connectors failed, full load would be put on remaining connector and it would burn up. Hardwired 3 stator wires as well. It has been rock solid for nearly 5K miles. Only a slight mod to OEM bracket is required as holes don't line up exactly.
    [​IMG]
    Mount bracket first, with right bolt, then mount R/R on stud and left oem bolt.
     
  9. Leedawg

    Leedawg New Member

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    Thanks for the advice!
     
  10. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    Thanks! :thumbsup: FL Keys have their place, never really had a bad time there except driving/riding home after a long weekend :drinkers: I have the "Keys Rat" licence tag still even though I don't live there now. :loco:

    I went with the circuit breaker and the crimp/solder/shrink tube. On my other bike I have the stock r/r plug which I did not eliminate since it was a new wiring harness. I hooked up a oem mosfet unit with soldered spade connectors on the end of the wires to plug into the stock plug, it looks good as there is no arking or burnt connectors. Stator wires on both bikes are crimped/soldered/shrink tubed. Cheers and keep the rubber side down.
     
  11. Leedawg

    Leedawg New Member

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    Thanks. Helps to know what others have installed and had success with. My harness looks ok as of now. My problem was low voltage this time. Looking forward to getting upgraded. But for now....Its freaking BEAUTIFUL outside and the mountains are calling!!!!!!!!!!!
    :party2::party2:

    I spent a few of my insane Navy aviation years down in Key West and all over Florida. Had way too much fun! Friend had a boat rental service down on Tavernier Creek north of Islamarada. Good times!
     
  12. KIDD

    KIDD New Member

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    These are my carbs. I bought hoping I could use on my gen three. They are in really nice shape. EVERYTHING LOOKS GREAT. the keepers were on incorrectly. Sorry I use old picks for the add. I'll guarantee them to anyone on this forum.
     
  13. KIDD

    KIDD New Member

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    Where are you planning on getting these unused carbs..
     
  14. KIDD

    KIDD New Member

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    What gold tabs are you talking about?
     
  15. kennybobby

    kennybobby New Member

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    As much as i hate to do it, i must respectfully disagree with the florida keys rat, aka ridervfr, on the subject of the position of the gold-colored metal tabs which cover the heads of the screws holding the plenum plate to the rack of carbs, i.e. the screws which must never be removed during carburetor cleaning, etc.

    i believe that those tabs are folded over the screw heads by the factory in an effort to slow-down or prevent idiots and squids from removing those screws and phukin up their carb rack, breaking the fuel rails, losing the synch springs, etc... Those folks with half a brain will see the tabs blocking access to the screw heads, which will cause them the pause and think about whether it is wise to proceed with removal and wonder if there is some reason that the heads are blocked.

    i just went out to the shed and looked at those tabs on 4 sets of 4th gen and one set of 3rd gen carbs, plus i have two more sets on each gen bikes--and all but one set had the tabs down over the screws. And i know that the tabs-up set has been previously phuked with when i bought them because you can see the damage to the phillips head screws where they cammed out and smeared the edges of the driver slots. Those with the tabs down have perfectly intact heads with no cam damage--i have pried some tabs up slightly to verify this.

    On hex head bolts those sort of tabs are used as a locking device similar to safety wire to prevent bolts from backing out, and in that case the tabs are generally left up.

    So the Kidd has a nice rack of carbs for sale and they look totally un-molested to me. They are 4th gen which you can tell that the throttle pulley is on the #1 carb and there are 3 hex head screws on each bowl, versus 3rd gen with pulley and #2 and 4 philips head screw holding the float bowls.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2014
  16. KIDD

    KIDD New Member

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    My carbs look totally unmolested. I thank kennybobby for clearing that up. All screws look unmarred and tight. These came off a well running bike with less than 3000 miles. You won't be sorry. I wish they would have worked for me.
     
  17. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    Jeep was a FL Keys Rat, not me, still wears the "Monroe County" tag. So now that thats cleared up, my 91 bike was unmolested one owner bike, so I know for a fact that no-body was ever into those carbs, the tabs are in the "UP" position. The second set I bought have the tabs in the "UP" position. I spent alot of time looking for a pair off Ebay that were like this. Lots of them had the tabs bent over the screw head. Everything worked out perfectly so its a happy ending to the story.

    In my mind, those tabs prevent the #3 phillips head from rotating as opposed to being tampered with. If you look at those tabs closely, from a machining and assembly point of view, no two are the same when they are bent over the head of the screw head. With that in mind, do you really think a human being was on the "line" with a pair of pliers or what ever, bending them over? I don't, it really does'nt matter anymore as these bikes are turning into dinasaurs and every-one is into fuel injection :mech: except you, me and some other special people. Cheers
     
  18. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    nice avatar btw :thumbsup:
     
  19. kennybobby

    kennybobby New Member

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    oh yeah the 3rd gen have those honking big #3 philips heads, whereas the 4th gen has much smaller (tiny in comparison) #2 screw heads, and different sized tabs on the two gens too. Maybe 3rd is up and 4th is bent over? 3rd screws are so big it would be difficult to bend them over and they function to prevent loosening as you said...i will stand corrected on the 3rd gen and defer to your judgement as the High Pimp/Whore Master of Gen3 bikes.

    Florida boys mighta been using that thang--no telling how many miles of dick have been run thru that thang...
     
  20. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    Thank you! It is all good in the neighborhood you know :wink: I just know what I know, thats it, that saying could be in a "Forest Gump" movie maybe. The goal is to get an un-molested/finger phuked/compromised part and or bike. Buyer beware basically, knowledge is power, I would never be so pompous that I could not learn from someone else or someone elses mistakes. I like sticking with stuff I am familar with, that goes for bikes/cars. I do want a KRL 650 in the future and have worked on a few of them in the past, (know their weaknesses.) Stay Kewel :thumbsup:
     
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