Brake Disc Bobbins

Here is something that I have never been aware of. I have a shudder on aggressive front braking from freeway speeds. Thought it may be front wheel balance but that checked out as good as they get.

I was not aware that the rotors floated. Which allows for imperfections or minor warps in the rotors. This was brought to my attention as well as this following link. I just completed this task this morning. Yes they were all tightened right up, but the remedy was super easy to do. The only thing is though, I think mine may have been left far too long to get any relief from this exercise. As far as I know, this has never been done on my bike and it has 182,500+ km, or 113,000+ miles and has been run through 8 winters.

I did get them all loosened, but they do not appear to be as loose as what is depicted in the video. About to take it out for a test ride now that the rain has stopped for now.

This is a very easy task and should be considered part of routine maintenance for all the effort that goes into it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1qoPqN2GBdw

 

If those floating tabs are warn out-I bet your rotors are shot too-stop being so cheap and get new rotors.:spider::spider::banana::banana::banana::banana::boink::spit::bluesbros:eep:

 

My 1000 posts , I am catching BB, 0h about replacing the rotors- you all ready said the rotors were no good- I wasn't trying to be a pain in ass sometimes the simplest things are the one's people over look and brakes are not something that shouldn't be over looked-bad brakes=means you crash instead of stopping. Consider Brakes your best insurance policy. My R6 had SS lines and it save me when a truck cut me off. back wheel in the air.

 

So. A quick trip out onto the freeway to test out the brakes with a few aggressive brake applications. Of course these were done on a deceleration ramp when no one was behind me. Doing these in front of a loaded Peterbuilt B train is never a good idea.

The brakes were like day and night. I mean the brakes always did stop the bike, but there was very bad shuddering on hard high speed braking. The shudder is gone. I have to admit, I am a bit surprised this was going to correct the issue because like I said, this has never been done. But all is good. Lots of meat still on the rotors so don't need new of them.

this simple task will now become a 2 times/year maintenance task for me for all the effort that goes into it.

 

ok I add to list-I all ready checked mine out-perfect shape-7,200 miles now. So these bikes are full floating- and not semi-floating? there is a big difference? My R6 was semi floating. I have abs brakes-I am still learning about them-I believe they can be upgraded to be able to really stop extremely fast.

 

You can have this in a Philosophy class. If SOW had a funnel, could he find his/her arse hole with it? ound: Kind of the same premis as if the "tree fell in the forest and no-one was around to hear it fall, did it really fall?

Side bar: love stainless brake lines, and after market pads. AnyWHoooOO, Cheers and keep the rubber side down...:vtr2

 

Wow, I may have to check into that. I'll have to admit I've never really given the bobbins a second look, other than to see if they are elongating the holes. Interesting thought.

 

How about, if you are divorced from your wife, have not seen or heard from her for 20 years, do you still make the bed wrong?

Yes. Me too. Eventually I might do that change over on mine too. Just a little pricey for my budget right now. I see no point in replacing just a few components to braided. The whole system or go home without. MOFWIW

 

I don't think you have that quite right. I different words, I said they were old. There is lots of meat still on these rotors.

I have been called many things, much of it quite accurate. Cheap is not one of them. Paying for something that needs repairing or replacing is the cost of riding. Many here can do a lot more than I mechanically so where I can't do the work, or find help with it, I do shell out significant coin for professionals to do what needs to be done to keep this bike as safe and mechanically sound as I can. I would suggest that so far, I may have done a pretty good job at that.

Give me a shout when you get 100K+ miles on you bike....1.5 gallons at a time......we can compare notes then. Mind you, I might be dead by then.

 

Great post Randy, never heard of that. Thanks!

 

I was directed here by long lost member here, Kingsley. He pointed this out to me when we went for a day ride last weekend. So he gets the credit.

It is great finding good advice on repairs you can do easily yourself.

 

Easy job, did this afternoon. Probably the first time in it's 35K mile history.

 

Outstanding post! I've had a shudder since I bought my '98 last year....hope this cures it~

Thanks!

 

Randy :wave: I have seen a few of the stainless steel conversions for the linked/ABS bikes on here, one comes to mind "stoshmonsters" colourful masterpiece. If it were my arse/wallet, I would stay with what the bike came with, looks like an expensive entire afternoon of fiddling with brake fluid and spanners, (not that there is anything wrong with that.)

BMW had a recall a number of years ago on what was then refered to as the James Bond bike, all the torx heads on the rotors were replaced along with the wave washers etc. The germans could be considered "anal" too :loco:

I have full floating rotors on one viffer from EBC which look as good as new with almost zero wear. New bike has the original ones which are solid, both bikes stop with authority though, if I came across something that would bolt up, I would consider the change, anyway, stay kewel up htere in the "Great White North" Cheers.

 

Thanks Randy - that post has prompted spanners into action all over the planet!


SkiMad

 

Ya. It is kinda like what Zoom -zoom was making a point of in his thread last night to post up if you find something a little odd when you are doing your checks. Share the discoveries. You might save someone considerable grief down the line.

 

Please. Do let us know if this reduced or eliminated the shudder. I know that shuddering in the front end has shown up here a few times so this may be the first place to look to correct that issue. We need to know how each of us has made out that way to give this solution some credibility.

I know my bike tends to suffer from cupping of the front tire. I have tried many of the solutions posted here. Maybe the tight bobbins is what may cause the cupping in the first place. I don't know. Each and every tire I have put on this bike has cupped to some degree.

 

Yep lots of thanks there Randy. I never gave it a thought. This may explain a few things I've noticed with my brakes under real hard braking from a ton. I know what I'm going to look at this week. Thanks:thumb:

 

...the verdict is in: 95% of my shuddering issue is GONE! ~WOOHOO~

:vtr2::thumbsup::thumbsup::vtr2::cheer2::cheer2::cheer2:

Went all the way up to 140 & stopped HARD with hardly any shake/shudder at all!!

 

cupping of the tire is mostly caused on super slab roads- take some hard turns that should help with cupping in the front-my front tire is cupping too-add more air in front tire too. My next set of tires are going to be sport touring with more rubber in the middle.