1983 Project or Parts?

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by RoninWolf, Oct 10, 2014.

  1. RoninWolf

    RoninWolf New Member

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    1983 Project

    First off, this site really helped me out after finding this bike. Don't think I would have considered buying without it.

    I'm more of a car person, so this will be my first hopeful bike. 1/83 VIN#2155, has ~10,800mi, 10715 but the 7 is cocked between 7 & 8. Popped the back valve cover to find some wear on cams, didn't look too bad. I was debating restoring this to original quality. However,with the damage and parts not there, I am leaning more toward cafe racer. Would be cheaper at this point. In the following weeks, I will find out if I have a project or a parts bike for someone. There a color code assigned to the VIN? Any parts I should replace regardless [thermostat for example]?
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2015
  2. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    Ah, another '83 with Kerker slip ons! Only difference is I have Vance and Hines pipes. There were two color schemes in '83, one was red/white like the fairings show and blue/white like i have, VIN should correspond. Going to be hard restore, as parts are hard to find to replace broken fairings and missing side covers. Problem I am finding is all the rubber parts are getting hard, found a way to soften them up with a mixture of xylene and wintergreen oil, they swear it works!
     
  3. GreyVF750F

    GreyVF750F Member

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    parts bike
     
  4. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    I agree, see other post with bike for sale in NY: http://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/mcy/4703776765.html and eat your heart out, alot of work to make it look like that and certainly cheaper to buy that one than what you would spend on fixing up.

    Only problem I have is I am sentimently attached to my original bike.
     
  5. crustyrider

    crustyrider New Member

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    I vote for a parts bike unless you have unlimited cash, time and space.... find a better specimen that runs and doesn't look lke ass...
     
  6. RoninWolf

    RoninWolf New Member

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    Actually, luck has it there was a 700F in the next room that needs an engine.
     
  7. TOE CUTTER

    TOE CUTTER Mullet Man

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    Run Forest run.
     
  8. RobVG

    RobVG Member

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    I spent $13.54 for a trip meter knob w/shipping. It took longer to find an M2.3 screw to install it. Had to buy 10 screws costing $9.30 w/shipping. It took me over a month and $110 to find an exhaust collector.

    So far it's been far easier to find parts for my 73RD than it is for the 84 Interceptor.

    Parts bike IMO
     
  9. RoninWolf

    RoninWolf New Member

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    Engine cranks, good compression. I'll start checking over the internals of the engine/trans for anything serious, project bike until further notice.
     
  10. rick.seconds

    rick.seconds New Member

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    Looks like a parts bike to me, color code is on a sticker on the plastic black fender under the seat, (see pic).

     

    Attached Files:

  11. RoninWolf

    RoninWolf New Member

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    Been stripping the engine & frame to check if everything is solid.
    -Fairing and structure are broke and badly bent/neglected. Going for cafe look, if I get the engine to fire within a month from now.
    -Frame has a few dents, but can be fixed. Thinking of just clear coating after I clean/repair it.
    -Got the case apart to inspect the bearings. Looked like they were just broken in, flywheel looked to be machine balanced already. All is good.
    -Cleaned the stator up and in the process of repairing some scrapes on the clutch cover. Will probably have to repaint.
    -Cleaning/polishing bolts as I go along, crank case bolts were skipped.
    -Cylinder heads have quite a bit of carbon build up, cams look to be in great shape. Cleaning/polishing the valves with some minor polishing of the ports.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2015
  12. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    Nice job on the aluminum polishing, my two Interceptor bikes have hidieous aluminum covers but have farings over them, so I never screwed with them when they were off for maintenance. You should use a clear coat so your not a slave to them as un-treated aluminum gets nasty. As long as your having fun, who gives a flying fuck, right? Cheers and happy Thanksgiving
     
  13. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    I'm no chemist, but i Xylene does soften up rubber....AS IT BREAKS IT DOWN !! What we call rubber hates a wide variety of chemicals: some make it harder and less flexible while others get in and begin breaking down molecules.
     
  14. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    You are probably right, I experimented with a couple of spare carb boots, and it didn't take long to soften and swell up. May make installation a lot easier, then they shrink back.
     
  15. RoninWolf

    RoninWolf New Member

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    Finished cleaning/polishing up the front head [same head as previously posted]. Need to prep the block for fitting.
    [​IMG]

    Rear head is just as done but need to remove broken extractor from it & tap/thread. Might just leave due to it being too far down to dremel and also to interfere with the replacement bolt.
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2015
  16. NormK

    NormK New Member

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    Never been able to get my head around why people buy a new bike and then only put 10,000 miles on it, out here we will do that i the first year without even trying. Seems to be an American thing
     
  17. RoninWolf

    RoninWolf New Member

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    I would say the vast distances discourage putting miles on anything not meant to be a cruiser. Anything outside of 30mi [~48km] usually will lean toward a car over a bike trip. Also, most of the time bikes are an enjoyment machine rather than say a daily driver.
    Probably the main issue is the 'maintenance free' mentality, pretty common in the US.
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2014
  18. RoninWolf

    RoninWolf New Member

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    Due to it being so cold, I can't work on the engine to prep for a compression test. Even with a heater it is a struggle. Working on other parts in the meantime. Clutch cover cure time is about up, hope to have it on the engine once it gets above freezing again.
    [​IMG]
    Some good scrapes & dings needed to be fixed, along with some flaking paint, I decided to take it back to bare metal and repaint the whole thing. Took ridervfr suggestion and clear coated the whole thing to preserve the aluminum & paint. Tested engine paints to get close, 'VHT : GM Satin Black' looked to dry to the perfect color.
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2015
  19. RoninWolf

    RoninWolf New Member

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    [More Pictures soon to follow]

    Did a compression test a while back, looks good.

    Coolant reservoirs had "stop leak" additive in them. Cleaned out all the gunk and tested radiators for pressure. Bottom radiator had a serious leak and was replaced with eBay second-hand part.

    Been stripping the frame back to bare metal, inspected for straightness, safety and repair a few trouble spots. Frame is straight and few dents were repaired as best i could before sending it to get sandblasted the rest of the way and painted back to silver metallic.
    [​IMG]

    Carbs have been cleaned, rebuilt and repaired. Still need to put some paint on the bleeder screws. Only had one synchro spring so i went to the hardware store to find similar ones, ground them down to size and roughly adjusted carbs for later running adjustments. Few carb tray threads have been broke off, so I hope to repair those as well.

    Valve covers have needed the most work so far, all the grooves and tight corners make it difficult to strip/clean easily even with Aircraft remover. Hope to have both covers done and drying very soon. Hope to have stands and fork mounts painted and drying before rewiring the frame.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2015
  20. RobVG

    RobVG Member

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    Nice work, looks great!

    And welcome back.
     
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