Carb Assembly Removal

i have a 1985 VFR500 Interceptor and I want to clean the carbs. I have both the tank and air box removed, and the bands loosened around the intake ports. I can't budge the assembly. Did I not loosen something or does it just take a lot of effort after not having been removed since new. Is there a trick to removing the assembly?

Thanks!

 

They are just stuck I bet. Don't remove the carbs from the aluminum base. The first time I took mine off I got a few blocks of wood and gently pried here and there until I got them loose. Gently! Don't break anything, they will come off. You could try heating the boots with a hair dryer to make them a bit softer.

Again....leave the aluminum base on the carbs. No need to remove it unless you must separate the carbs, and you don't need to just to clean them. #25 on this page...

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1985/VF500F+A/CARBURETOR+II/parts.html

 

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to put the aluminum base back on as per your suggestion because I think it will help in removing the carb assembly. I'm also going to heat the carb boots. I'll let you know how it works out.

 

As previously stated, they're just on there good is all. Took me the better part of a six pack to remove the ass'y the first time. Putting them back in is much, much worse!

 

Geeze, if the poster had just briefly read the service manual before diving in he might not have made the unnecessary mistake of removing the airbox plate.

 

Well, the carb assembly is out and I just have to disconnect the choke and throttle cables.

I read the Clymer manual before starting disassembly and it called for removing the airbox plate. I'll re-attach it with the assembly out, so maybe it will go back in more easily.

The rubber boots connecting the carbs to the intake manifold are as hard as hard plastic. Is that normal, or do I need to replace them with actual flexible rubber pieces?

 

The reason you don't want to remove the aluminum plate is to keep from cracking the brittle as glass tubes between the carbs. Parts #11 and #6 in the link I posted before. They are plastic and over the years have become very brittle and can't take the stress put on them by handling the carbs when removed from the base.

You need to somehow test and be sure they are still intact and not leaking BEFORE you put the carbs back on the bike. I have seen replacements for my bike (84 700) for sale somewhere, made of aluminum or SS, don't remember. Seems like a very good fix to me. Maybe someone will chime in with a place that sells them.

If you plan to keep the bike or do any more wrenching on it you should get the Honda service manual. They are better than the Hayes/Clymers for sure.

It wouldn't hurt to replace the carb boots, that's for sure.

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1985/VF500F+A/REAR+CYLINDER+HEAD+I/parts.html

#11 on this drawing....the other set is on the front cylinder head drawing....probably the same P/N.

 

Thanks for the info, it's very helpful. Part #11 does look intact. One of them separated from one of the carbs. It didn't break, but I don't know if there might be a crack in it. The T-joint in the middle of the part wasn't connected to any kind of hose when I took the carb assembly out. What do they connect to?? I'll have to look for part #6.

Thanks again!

 

In that case, i owe you a humble apology. Sorry !

 

Thanks for that! I'll tell you one thing, I'm going to start looking for the Interceptor shop manual. I don't think the Clymers is very good. I've always had the shop manuals for my other bikes and the detail is much better, as are the illustrations.

 

FSM shows proper routing of wires, cables and hoses in clear line drawings.

 

I cleaned and assembled the carbs, except for the pilot jets. The Clymer says don't fool with them unless you know they're mal-functioning. What do you think, leave them alone, or clean them while the assembly is on the bench. They can be accessed with the assembly in or out of the bike and removal of the jets involves drilling out a plug prior to removal. I'd like to leave them alone.

 

Problem is it is usually the pilot jets that gum up because the holes are so small

 

Oh well, might as well go through the process with the carbs out. Thanks for the feedback.

 

First time I had the carbs out of mine I didn't touch the pilot screws, because I went by the book. Guess what....I turned around and pulled the carbs right back off to redo them because the pilots were dirty.

Go ahead and do them now unless you like to remove and install the carbs over and over. :biggrin:

 

I drilled out the plugs and removed one pilot screw, spring, washer and o-ring. Is there an orifice that somehow needs to be cleaned, or am I just cleaning the needle tip at the end of the pilot screw?

Thanks for the input!

 

Spray carb cleaner and then compressed air thru there. I got trash out of each passage on mine. Wear safety glasses, the carb cleaner is going to come out a different hole and shoot directly in your right eye.

Should have also mentioned for you to count the turns on the screws and put them back in the same place. Meaning, turn them in until LIGHTLY seated, counting as you go. Then you will know where to put them when the carbs go back together. Honestly not a big deal if you didn't, probably better to set them with the engine running anyways. Those factory settings may not be correct on the now 30 yr old engine.

 

Well, the carbs are done. Cleaned everything including the pilot jets. The jets were clogged and the carb was overall gummed up. As such, it never would have started. Got some serious scrubbing to do in and around the engine before I re-install the carb assembly.

Next is cleaning the rust from the fuel tank. Not much there, so it shouldn't be too bad a job. Will use Rust Remover Bath. Then it's install a new battery and fire her up.

Thanks for all your help!

 

If you're planning on sealing the tank, I've had great results with the POR-15 tank cleaning/sealing kit.

 

Don't need the tank to fire it up, just use a fuel bottle, that way you can see what is going on, leaks etc, get at the carbs, once you have everything sorted then put the tank on, tank is the last thing you need to fit