1994 vfr 750 neutral switch

where is the neutral sensor located?? i have a service manual and the picture it gives is so unclear that i cant figure out where its at. google wont show me either so i figured i would ask on here

 

It's at the extreme rear right side of engine, a few inches in front of and below the rear brake pedal, with a single wire going to it. :congratulatory:

 

Do you know where I can purchase a new one? I look on eBay and Amazon and cannot find one

 

Any online place that sells Honda parts......or your local Honda mc dealer. The same exact identical switch (i believe) was used over several years on several different Honda models. You could get one from a salvage yard 4 sure.

 

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1994/VFR750F+AC/GEARSHIFT+DRUM/parts.htm
Partzilla, tried looking it up and this what came up....one parts..good luck

HELL YEAH---LETS RIDE

 

Sorry for bringing this thread back. I have a 1996 VFR750 and having neutral light issues. So, I have cleaned neutral switch by unscrewing it from the engine. Lubed the plunger and cleaned the connector too.

Problem is bike on center stand, neutral light comes on as expected(normal). I shift gears, neutral light goes away, moment or second I pull in clutch, neutral light comes back again. If I put the side stand down and shift gears, neutral light goes away then if I pull in clutch, neutral light does not show up. What could be the possible problem?

Thanks guys.

 

Look for corrosion on your connectors. Check for a voltage drop on the switch. Should be nearly nothing if its shows any voltage across it you're likely to have dirt still in the switch. I had this issue with mine obviously haha but I resolved it by throughly cleaning the system

 

Should I check clutch switch or neutral one? Neutral switch does show 'almost zero' resistance on an ohm scale.

Any tips for cleaning? I used carb cleaner for switch and electrical connector cleaner for connector.

 

I am not familiar with the makeup of carb cleaner, but you can use electrical cleaner for switches. (I use DeoxIt.) These are engineered to remove the mild corrosion from the contacts.

You may have to first remove any globules of old, cooked dielectric grease from the switch contacts. Perhaps a Q-tip soaked in the cleaner can help.

For reference check the electrical diagram in the factory service manual. These switches do crossover so I agree with you. Refresh the clutch switch and the side stand switch and re-run your tests. You can bypass them for diagnosis but be careful and understand what the bypassing means for operation!

I am unsure if there is access to clean the clutch switch, cleaning just the pins, or maybe it will require replacement (?). On my bike I think the flapper valve buzzes with a bad clutch switch, giving an indication of switch operation. (Not sure if the 750 has an EPA flapper.)

Also your resistance test is good but open circuits can occur once heated. After running the bike a while, on a hot day, or if there is any small arching going on, the switch can heat up and fail, while it passes with flying colors when cool. The cleaning should eliminate that though.

 

IMO the OP should just toss oot the whole bike and start over. The theory here is that replacing entire linked systems on older bikes can cut the riding time down and piss off time sourcing parts. Not that much fun unless some folks are anal about parts hunting. As Sman points oot there is only one wire to the switch which kind of suggests it's not really that complex.

MSDS on both carb and electrical cleaners is on file by name. "msds deoxit"

IMO best to spell oot "carburetors" in a search term. carbs might get ya a shitload of pasta recipes.

 

Check the lever!

A similar thread by another user just reminded me: Check your levers. Chinese levers are not accurately machined and may not activate brake and clutch switches. If your levers are damaged or they are cheap knock-offs, this is a possibility for unreliable clutch switch activation.

 

Thanks for your help and suggestion. Removing clutch and side stand switch, how difficult it is? I am going to clean all switches, can anyone please help if clutch and side stand switches are cleanable?

 

Thanks, actually both clutch and brake levers are OEM. In fact, previously clutch lever was cheap Chinese one(I replaced it with an OEM one) and was still having exact same problems.

 

http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/37022-Side-stand-switch-replacement


The clutch switch you can pull the wire off and clean the contacts. But if the mechanism is sticky or the inside is corroded, that won't help. I cannot find any reference to someone cleaning this out (anyone?) These are built as throwaway items. But here is a guy who did this on a 250. The principles should be the same, should you be a glutton for punishment:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Cleaning_and_servicing_the_clutch_switch



Not knowing the history of the bike here is another one: If switch maintenance does not help, trace the sensor wires, in case they were broken or chewed through by mice.

 

Thanks so much again 'knight. I'll give a shot of cleaning the contacts for clutch switch side first. Should I clean side stand switch too or?

 

I cannot recall the logic of the side-stand switch, but you may be right in your thinking that it is the clutch switch. So refresh or replace the clutch switch and see if that fixes the issue. But in the long-term you want to thoroughly examine all of the switches, because it is best to refresh them and make sure they are working well, than to deal with unexpected problems in the future, especially on aging bikes, and bikes that may have been neglected before you got them.

 

Very true and makes sense. Could it be possibly a diode based on the symptoms or no? I am trying to rule out the problem.

Thank you again

 

I'd defer to someone smarter than me. But you should get a Factory Service Manual which has flowcharts for troubleshooting, and an electrical diagram. Some of these are available on the VFR forums from users who uploaded them:

See here:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/category/2-owners-manuals-and-other/


Also someone created a large version of the electrical diagram from the service manual. Take this to the copy store and print a large poster version:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index....th-gen-super-high-resolution-wiring-diagrams/



EDIT: Oops lost track of posts...yours is a 4th gen not 5th, so look for your appropriate diagrams.

 

So I just cleaned the switch, used sand paper and cleaner to clean the contacts. Still, moment clutch switch is engaged, neutral light comes on. BTW, how much should be the resistance between two wires at the clutch switch? Could there be any issues between those wires? I tried swapping the connection for the contacts, still same issue.

 

Switch seems to be fully operation and contacts weren't corroded or in any bad shape. Thanks for the help.