Battery? Rectifier? VFR 1200

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Contravene, Apr 28, 2015.

  1. Contravene

    Contravene New Member

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    A few days ago I went for a short trip. Then when I tried to start my bike to get back home it turned out that the battery is completely empty. It couldn't even backlight the meters. Fortunately there was a guy with a car and he had wires so I could start the VFR getting power from his car. The bike started normally be turned off immediately after I detached the cables that were connecting the battery in my bike and the battery in his car. I've tried this a few times and finally succeed after leaving the cables connected for a minute (I guess it was enough to charge the battery a little bit). I drove a few miles, then then backlight of the meters and the indicators started to flicker and the bike died. The battery was empty again. I call my friend, who brought his battery and I was able to get home with it (few miles).

    I'm going for a few hundred miles trip in a few days and I'm desperately trying to solve this issue.

    What I've done so far (after recharging my own battery):
    1. Battery test is OK giving ~12.5V [page 19-6 in The Manual].
    2. Current leakage test is OK giving ~1mA (mind the alarm my bike is equipped with) [19-6].
    3. Alternator charging coil is OK (I get ~1Ω between every of the tree yellow wires - my meter cannot show anything less than 1Ω, so it can be even lower) [19-7].
    4. Charging voltage is OK, I get ~14.3V with the engine on and the headlight on Hi beam [19-7].
    5. Regulator/rectifier system inspection is OK (the resistance between yellow wires is OK and there is no continuity between them and ground; also there is continuity between red and battery positive cable and between green and ground) [19-7].
    6. I've also test the rectifier with this tutorials: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dINJqxecb28 and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q. None of the diodes is shortened (all of them conduct current only in one direction) but there is something strange. The voltage drop between the "red socket" (where the red cable is connected) and the yellow cables is ~0.126V. Isn't it to small? The voltage drop between the "green socket" and yellow cables is OK, ~0.503V. The standard voltage drop for diodes should be between 0.5V and 0.8V, I think.

    What do you think, is it the battery or the rectifier? As I've said I'm going for a trip in tree days and I don't want this to happen again when I am a few hundred miles from home.

    Thank you for your help!
     
  2. rjgti

    rjgti New Member

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    load test the battery
     
  3. Bas

    Bas New Member

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    I agree, see what happens with the battery-voltage when you turn the ignition and lights on, it should stay well above 12V when you do.
    If it drops rapidly under 12V then your battery has died.
     
  4. Contravene

    Contravene New Member

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    Thank you for your answers.

    I did it. With ignition and lights turned on the voltage drops to 11.80V (with the headlight on Hi beam to 11.68V). While the engine is starting the voltage seems to stay above 10V, but I'm not sure because the engine starts immediately, perhaps to fast for the meter to do its thing. How can I cut the ignition (to make sure engine won't start) to make the battery load test last at least 10s with acting/working starter?

    Also I have never had a slightest problem with the battery, even after two-month break during winter.
     
  5. rjgti

    rjgti New Member

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    engine kill switch on right handle bar then crank it and watch meter
     
  6. Bas

    Bas New Member

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    Batteries die often and yours seems no exception to me.
    With just the lights on, it should stay above 12v (or drop below for a second and then rise again above 12V)
    Yours doesn't so it looks like a broken cell inside.

    One of the biggest mistakes people can make in winter is charge the battery below freezing point, it kills the battery.
    Normally a battery is very happy to be charged at about 20C, if you charge at 0C or lower, it (can) dies.

    Look at cars during winter, same problem, batteries die all over the place.
     
  7. Contravene

    Contravene New Member

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    If I turn off the red switch on the right handle then I won't be able to start the engine and to get the reading while the starter is going. Well, what I meant is something like that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXwJpPxEJ2E. The starter is rolling but the engine won't start. If I do this for at least 10s I could read the battery voltage under heavy load. Currently I cannot do this because the engine starts immediately and the meter cannot react so quickly. Is there any cable or wire I can plug out the prevent the engine from starting?

    If I comes to the temperature I kept the motorcycle in the garage during winter so the temperature didn't drop lower than 15C.
     
  8. NormK

    NormK New Member

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    I have a new battery in mine and with the lights on it drops down to just under 12volts but without the lights on it will charge up to 14 volts. One of the advantages of having a volt meter fitted and interesting to watch
     
  9. Bas

    Bas New Member

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    How old is the battery?
    Also, there is no need to start it, just let the lights and ignition on for a couple of minutes, the Voltage should read above 12V, not below.
    Starting puts a very heavy load on such a small battery, it will surely drop below 11v but is normally instantly recharged when the engine is running.
    You can't compare this to the clip or a car battery as a bike isn't fitted with a big battery that needs to serve onboard power for loads of stuff.
    It's just there to start the engine for a short amount of time.
     
  10. Contravene

    Contravene New Member

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    It's as old as the bike itself I guess, which was manufactured in 2010 (the first VFR 1200 model).
     
  11. Bas

    Bas New Member

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    5 years (or more) is actually quite old for a bike battery.
    My money is on a broken battery.
    Also, batteries are quite cheap to replace, I always take the cheapest I can find, as they typical last about 4~6 years, mostly less.

    You are talking about 50 to 75 USD for a new one, that will last you another 4 to 5 years.
     
  12. Bryan88

    Bryan88 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    Here's something you may want to try. Can you check the water level in the battery? Even if it has a "do not remove" thing on it, take it off and check. I had this happen to my battery a few years back, filled it up and it was fine. Although I replaced it just to be sure, that battery was ok in one of our other bikes for about a year.
     
  13. Contravene

    Contravene New Member

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    I have an AGM battery, so I guess I won't be able to check it due to the absorbent glass mat in it.

    I've tested the battery using some "garage methods". The battery loaded with a 1.6A bulb lasted only 2.5 hours before the voltage went down below 10.8V. With a 1A load it should last 10 hours, so with a 1.6A at least 5 hours.

    Well, I'm not sure if this is it, but I've ordered a new Yuasa battery and a voltmeter, which will give me a live info about the electrical system. This way if it isn't the battery's fault but the regulator/rectifier I will know before the battery goes dead.

    Thank you all for your help.
     
  14. sportcruiser

    sportcruiser New Member

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    You certainly did a great job of isolating the problem... congrats! Generally, whenever a battery is completely drained once, it looses much capacity anyway so replacing it is a good move.
     
  15. Contravene

    Contravene New Member

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    Thanks! I've mounted the voltmeter and it works like a charm. Also there's higher voltage with the new battery.

    I'm going for a few days trip this Saturday and in spite of all I'm taking the old, spare battery, charger and cables, just in case :)
     
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