2008 headlight blub replacement

Discussion in 'General VFR Discussions' started by grabcon, Aug 20, 2015.

  1. grabcon

    grabcon New Member

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    My wife and I are on a MC trip and her 2008 VFR800 has one burt out hedlight blub, low beam. I need a few questions answered so I can replace it.

    First does it require a Honda blub or is there an automotive relpacement? If automotive replacement what is the blub type?

    I have found how to access the blub but the blub connector does that just pull off or is there a release button? if a release button where is it?

    Lastly. Isd there a spring clip that hold the blub in place?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    Its been a while but yes there is a spring clip holding it in. If I recall, it is better to leave the wires plugged into the bulb, remove it from its rubber boot, then unplug. If I recall, the plug should just pull off, but like I said, it has been a while. If you get it out of the rubber boot, you should be able to see. I can't help you on the replacement bulb as far as automotive replacement goes. I think the low beam is an H4 bulb while the high is an H7. There could be an automotive replacement. Don' touch the glass. If so, wipe very clean before turning it on. But then, you probably knew that already.
     
  3. grabcon

    grabcon New Member

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    thanks much
     
  4. grabcon

    grabcon New Member

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    The wife and I got back from our 2600 mile trip yesterday and I got the bikes washed up today and replaced her low beam blub.

    I got the blub replaced today but it was a very time consuming task. At least for me I could not get the connector off or the blub out of the headlight mount without removing all of the plastic. Not difficult just a PIA. But I did find that on the right side headlight although working before I started a wire came detached from the plug so a quick solider job was needed.

    All four plugs for the low and high bulbs were seized on to the bulbs. They all needed to be pried off. All of the rubber boots were stuck on the headlight housing. So some preventative maintenance was done to make sure I can replace any of the bulbs now without pulling all body work.

    But at least the low beam takes a standard 4H 9003 blub available at any auto store. The high takes something different.
     
  5. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    High beam is an H7 I believe. A little dialectic grease on the electrical contacts will prevent them from corroding like that again. A very light smear of the grease or Vaseline on the rubber boot where it meets the back side of the light housing may also help prevent it from sticking too. I am sure we will see com colourful comments about Vaseline and backsides.
     
  6. grabcon

    grabcon New Member

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    That is what I did just so I can get it a part again if needed, or the next guy.
     
  7. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    Too bad the person before you was not as considerate. Then again, why would that not be done in the factory. It is not like the electrical components of these bikes are sheltered from the elements is it?
     
  8. sunofwolf

    sunofwolf New Member

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    Randy look like he lost a lot of weight, could that be why he hasn't dropped his bike recently?:spider:
     
  9. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    I wouldn't use Vaseline ... I hear it's good for your anus if you're like SOW and his affinity for she-males ... but for rubber components on a bike, it will break it down being a petroleum based product. I learned that one the hard way myself. :(

    My vote goes for dielectric grease as well - most are safe for rubbers as they are usually made with polyphenyl ether.
     
  10. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    Some one here, no names mentioned, has used petroleum jelly for years on their blow up rubber dolls and there have been no failures there. With the dolls anyways. Just say'n
     
  11. grabcon

    grabcon New Member

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    I use Silicon grease on all rubber parts. It does not deteriorate the rubber. I also have use for many years now straight multi purpose grease (This cannot be silicon based or have any metal base material in it such as moly) for all electrical connections. Dielectric grease is an insulator and unless the is a good pressure contact the connection may be compromised.
     
  12. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    This is an old wives tale.

    I've used dielectric grease and some very expensive, precise, and sensitive potentiometers for radio controlled helicopters, as well as many other applications. It's pure hogwash.
     
  13. grabcon

    grabcon New Member

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  14. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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  15. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    One could fimd himself very educated reading you two's links. Just hope I take the right one to heart. Maybe we should get little piggie's view on this. He probably mixes 1/3 dielectric, 1/3 petrolium jelly (but it must be the Wallmart brand) and 1/3 axle grease recovered from a dirty old fifth wheel plate from a 1973 Peterbuilt.
     
  16. GigemVFR

    GigemVFR New Member

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    Mix thoroughly until blended well. Place in bundt pan and bake in a 350 degree oven until set in the middle. Top with a dollop of white lithium grease and serve immediately while hot.
     
  17. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Don't forget to to add the secret ingredient ... the KY jelly ... a dab'll do ya!
     
  18. grabcon

    grabcon New Member

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    From your link.

    The important physical characteristic is that any grease must have low enough viscosity to push out of the way at contact points, be water or liquid resistant, and be stable enough to remain in place as a protectant against moisture and air for a long time.

    There are many cases where lubricating contacts accelerates failure.


    The points in the link are well taken but the above two points are key to the situation. Like I mentioned in my comments to the thread a good pressure contact is required, which is in line with quote 1 from the link.

    The second comment I can attest to with my vintage bikes and the hand controls. I had rebuild several hand controls and used dielectric grease to lubricate, prevent corrosion and to water proof. What I discovered in all cases was that the switches did not function properly because of the lack of pressure on the contact point. These old switches have little pressure making contact. After another thorough cleaning and using the multi purpose grease the issues subsided and they still to function properly after 4 years.

    So there can be a debate for both sides but at the end of the day there will be situations that can and will be argued.
     
  19. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    There is no doubt that if proper mechanical contact is not made, the grease, any type, may interfere with the ability for current to flow. Especially if the current is of very low amperage. So it is correct that solid contact is correct. On older machines or components, it is possible that the contact surfaces have either bent some or worn some and the grease would prevent a good electrical contact.

    I don't know about your guys, but there have been many times where I stuck a very small screw driver into a 120V light socket, with the power off of course, and bent that little tab outward a tad. They seem to loose their spring to make proper contact with the bulb. In a similar manner, I have removed several cores from electric motors and carefully cleaned off the armature with steel wool or very fine emery cloth to remove the oxidation that is caused when the brushes wear on the winding and it developed to a point where the performance of the electric motor is significantly reduced. I have done this with everything from 220v30a industrial motors, to vacuum cleaner motors, to power window motors. So even oxidation, cause by brushes sparking on an armature will interfere with the conductivity of electricity to some degree.

    So ya, Dielectric grease does not conduct electricity, but it is still a very good product to keep connections clean and operable. All the while, a good mechanical connection between the two conductors is essential.

    I have also changed a circuit breaker in a friends house where spider webs had started a process that interfered with current. Can't say that one is common though.
     
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