Regulator? Battery? Please help!

Just got a vfr 2000 from a private sale. Was already aware of the regulator/ rectifier electrical problems. He assured me that he replaced it 8 years ago with a top of the line product that even has a cpu cooling fan to keep it cool. Well my issue that's been happening with the bike is while it's just idling, if I give it a quick shot of gas, the headlights completely turn off for half a second! Naturally first thing that comes to mind is the regulator would be the culprit but since that's already been fixed, what else can it be? Even the turn signal lights dim a bit when I give it a shot of gas from idle position. I heard from one forum that it's normal since the battery isn't being charged at idle but I don't know...Any ideas folks?

 

First off, have the battery load tested, then check the wiring harness and connectors for any signs of over heated or burnt connectors/wires. Regardless if when the stator or R/R was replaced, it it's the wiring that causes these to fail, so doing "the drill" would be another thing I'd recommend doing.


If you're not familiar with "the drill", check out the link below...
http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthre...regulator-Stator-failures?highlight=The+drill

 

"cpu cooling fan" :hangme:

that's one of those backyard engineering projects. in the same category as drilling custom holes in the air box for more horse power.

 

Do you guys think it can be a problem with the headlights themselves? He installed HIDs and I noticed that one of lights burned out.....then 2 hours later it came back on. Also, I'm not getting any other R/R symptoms. Bike starts up fine, runs great, no burnt wires or anything. The Regulator he installed was "Rick's Regulator"....supposedly a $150 part and he installed that last year he said (Sorry I thought he originally said 7 years ago, but I spoke with him on the phone 10 mins ago and the battery, and regulator were done last year. The HIDs were done 5 years ago.)

 

If it has not been done now is the time: Open the left handlebar switches, spray electronics cleaner on each of them and work the switches back and forth. My lights were intermittent when I bought the bike just from switch corrosion.

If you have not read the article posted above, do so, and measure all of the output voltages to get the complete story.

 

And how is the regulator connected to the stator?

 

this. You need to pull off the tail cowl and take a look. Who knows what other "upgrades" the seller did.

 

Okay, I borrowed a voltage meter from work and I'll test the voltage of the battery when I get home in 8 hours. I do know that he added a Cigarette Lighter Socket so that he was able to plug in his GPS on long trips. Perhaps I'll remove that from the equation as well. Also, is there a preferred brand of electronics cleaner to spray on the lights switch? Thanks again guys/gals.

 

I think I used DeoxIT, purchased from Radio Shack. It is amazing and instantly removed the corrosion. Give it a couple minutes to completely evaporate before re-assembling the switch casing.

 

Any "electrical contact cleaner" will work for the switches ... remember to lube them with di-electric grease afterwards to help them from oxidizing again and lubricate.

 

There is serious contention over the use of dielectric grease on electrical conductors.

A switch with contacts coated with grease must push the grease out of the way each and every time the switch is used. If it fails to push the grease out of the way, the switch does not work. There is also a minimum amount of pressure required to push the grease out of the way. Not every switch mating surface produces the required pressure. Or a coated switch that works today may stop working prematurely as it wears and the mating pressure is decreased from wear.

The general rule for dielectric grease use is in protecting permanent connections, such as connecting battery terminals, then coating the connection. Note in this use there is no grease between the conductive surfaces, but the grease protects the overall connection.

For every person who may reply, "I have never had a problem and I do this all the time", there will be someone who did have a problem, a problem which cleared up only once the grease was completely cleaned off.

Given the limited life of switches, it is better to expect to occasionally clean them, then eventually replace them. I would not introduce this variable of applying a non-conductive material to a surface that absolutely must conduct every time.

Just one more opinion.

 

Alright everyone I think I may have found the problem. First off, I cleaned up the lights switch. Next, I started trimming out some excess wiring from under the seat area. I removed the cpu fan that was attached to the regulator since that wasn't even working. Then i removed the cigarette lighter input since I'll never use it and I want the bare necessities to help figure out what's causing issues. Next I started measuring voltage:
Bike turned off, key turned off: 12.90v
Bike turned off, key turned on: 12.00v
Bike turned on, cold start: 14.80v
Bike turned on, fully warmed up: 15.05v

Now call me crazy, but isn't 15.05v too high a voltage? And if so, would that tie into the HID headlights turning off for a split second when I rev my engine to help prevent them from blowing up? Also, I noticed just while idling that my dash even flickers a bit.

My verdict is that the regulator isn't doing it's job in keeping the voltage to an acceptable level. What do you all think?

 

15.05 at the battery? That IS high.

 

I've heard these a few times ... I have a degree in electronics and this is nothing more than an old wives tale made up by the lord only knows who ... probably SOW. LOL!

I little dab will do you - like anything else, excess can potentially cause issues, but not necessarily for the reasons you've stated.

 

I concur.

 

Tomorrow I'm going to test the voltages again with a different meter to be 100% positive. Then Thursday I'll change the HIDs to the stock bulbs. If the headlights don't flicker when I rev the engine, I'll be happy as a clam. If the lights still flicker, or even explode, then at least I'll know for sure it's the rectifier.

 

HID kits can be a nightmare if you go cheap, or they are just near their end of life. I would definitely take them out of the equation, to see if the problem persists.

* Don't forget about the ballasts!

Just curious, what voltage are you getting at idle?

 

At idle, it was fluctuating between 14 and 15.05.

 

Wow. That's pretty high for idle ... usually it should be around 13.8v at idle and jump up to about a stable 14.3-14.4v @ 5000rpm (figures might be less if you haven't beefed up wiring - although yours seem much higher??)

 

I think removing the HID kit is a good idea. Imho 14-15.05 at idle is too high. Although the rectifier should rectify that....