1994 Honda VFR 750 Due for Maintenance

Discussion in '3rd & 4th Generation 1990-1997' started by Stephen6096, May 4, 2016.

  1. Stephen6096

    Stephen6096 New Member

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    Hello, I have a 1994 Honda VFR 750 and it is time to due some maintenance on this bike and I would like some input from who I would called the professionals consider I have not had the bike too long and have done very little maintenance. First off, the bike has about 53,000 miles. It has only one problem that is not very bad but is an awesome bike otherwise.

    Here is what I am going to do before I start riding it again in about 3 weeks.

    I want to replace both the front and rear tire and am not sure which tires to get as there seem to be very many popular tires out there. I want something that will last a long time but will be able to handle and high speed turn or curve I will throw at it. Looking for something on the cheaper end but will obviously sacrifice price for quality. While in there doing the tires, I know this would be a good time to check all of the bearings. If they end up bad what is a good bearing to get?

    I will be changing out the chain along with sprockets and will be going with a set from the sprocket center as they seem popular and are to me a good price.

    I have break pads on order so that is no problem for now.

    I was wondering what other routine maintenance would be a good idea to do. Air filter looks pretty clean but I don't know the last time it was replaced. Let me know your thoughts on that.

    Lastly, here are the problems the bike seem to have. When in gear or in neutral, with the clutch pressed in, it makes a faint knocking noise that stops when the clutch is released in neutral. Also with that, going from neutral to first seems to have a little louder than normal clunk if the clutch is not held in long enough before shifting to first from neutral. I believe all of this is related but not sure what it is, any insight on what to check and/or how to fix it would be great.

    The other problem, possibly related or possibly not, is that when letting out the clutch fastly when taking off at low throttle it seems to lug a little. When taking off at low throttle and slowly letting the clutch out the problem goes away and it also goes away when letting off the clutch fastly at a higher throttle. This has done it since I got the bike I believe and am not sure if it is normal or if something is wrong.

    Please let me know your recommendations on everything, it is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks, Stephen
     
  2. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    Since it is more than 20 years old, I would check all ground points and connectors for corrosion. Wire brush or sand connections.
     
  3. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Hey Stephen! I don't think I could go 3 weeks without my bike in riding season. LOL!

    Tires:

    I've used the Michelin Pilot Road 2's for so long now, I don't know what else is good out there? I've been very happy with the PR2's as they last long and grip well in all conditions. I have a set of Bridgestone T30 EVO's on their way and will be mounted as soon as they get here since I have a big trip planned at the beginning of next month. Lots of good reviews on the Pilot Road 4's and the Metzeler 01 Interacts and Metzeler Z8 Interacts as well from my recent research.

    Bearings:
    Order whatever RevZilla carries. It'll be decent.

    Chain & Sprockets:
    Are they actually worn? I personally prefer the OEM front sprocket. It has a rubberized coating which helps dampen it - this is my personal opinion. Many others don't bother with the OEM front and are happy with it. Rear one doesn't matter nearly so much.

    Air Filter:
    Snap a photo and post it. Let's take a look? I replace mine AT LEAST once a year. I put on more than 30,000km's annually though despite my cold northern climate / short riding seasons.


    Clutch:

    What does your clutch fluid look like first of all? Second, what does your engine oil look like? Both can affect shifting and noises in the engine. I would start here. While you're doing the clutch fluid, do the brake fluid as well!

    I use Shell Advance Ultra 4T 10W40 Synthetic oil (made for motorcycles) but I understand it's difficult to find. Many guys use the Rotella and swear by it (also cheaper). Just make sure it's got the right ratings on it for motorcycles.

    Finally, if you haven't already - check all your electrical connectors and charging system for oxidization on them, and that it's functioning properly.
     
  4. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    ^what they said and this: when your carburetors are not synchronized the low speed rideablity and the noises your hearing may be solved with a proper carb-synch. Its an older bike, bleed clutch slave and make sure you have clean dot 4 installed, have a water spritz bottle handy in case you get a little sloppy (nuetralizes nasty fluid.)

    I do the t-stat and check hoses and radiator bands for tightness. Check R/R connections and your stator connections, they should be soldered and finished with shrink tubing, dats about it fer now :mech:
     
  5. Stephen6096

    Stephen6096 New Member

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    Thank you very much, sadly I have been without it and my car for about 6 months due to joining the military, but I will definitely check out those tires along with revzilla for bearings and the chain has a few loose spots and the sprockets are fairly worn, not too bad but is probably time since I dont know how old the sprockets or chain really are. Brand new brake fluid and clutch fluid not too long before I had to put the bike away. I will get to the air filter as soon as I get back. Before I left I put in the 4t mobil 1 oil an it seemed to help a little but only put a few miles on it after that.
     
  6. Stephen6096

    Stephen6096 New Member

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    I will have that checked out. Once I get back home, I may have a professional drive it and see what they recommend about the low speed rideability. Will check hoses and radiator bNDS long with t-stat for proper operation and serviceability. R/R was replaced with a vfrness kit so that should be good to.

    Thanks for all the help with items to check and the low speed problem. It will go a long way as I plan on driving from florida to california with it.
     
  7. thx1138

    thx1138 New Member

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    Maybe valve clearances?
     
  8. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    I envy you! If I was'nt married I woulda been a motorcycle bum and rode around the country. :sad: Its all good, I can't complain I just got a new daughter born on 042716 and have a super duper wife. Just saying thats all. Wana do a Europe thing on a bike in the future. Cheers, happy to help out :thumbsup:
     
    Mpomarico likes this.
  9. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Thanks for your service! I appreciate what you folks and our Canadian counter parts do for the rest of us.

    Regarding the chain and sprockets ... loose sections are fine, it's the tight spots you need to worry about. If the chain adjustment is beyond recommended limits or the chains has really tight spots, then replace it. Otherwise, take it off and clean it in kerosene, reinstall and lube it. For the sprockets, just inspect it ... if the teeth aren't worn, don't waste your money.

    Ride on!
     
  10. Stephen6096

    Stephen6096 New Member

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    Congratulations on the new daughter and I would love to do the same thing. Hopefully in the next few years.




    I hear no tapping and have a good ear for it so Im gonna leave that be until I hear it or am in that area. Thanks for the suggestion


    Thank you very much. Also I dont know how old they are and the sprockets are fairly worn, Id say 3/4 of the limit. I figure it will be a good investment and I can keep the old sprockets for desperate scenarios.



    One other thing, what are everyones ideas on Pilot power tires and Shinko 009 tires? I like driving a little on the wilder side and read an article from a person who uses mainly pilot powers and it sounds like he drives like a maniac on them and they never hesitate in twisties or corners. I don't want to spend a lot on the tires but want something that can handle the California fun and still have good tread life. And im trying to decide between semi-sintered brakes and organic, which will be better for the bike?
     
  11. thx1138

    thx1138 New Member

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    Consider pilot road 4's. Great grip wet or dry and good tyre life.
    With valve clearances you will not normally hear tight clearances. Until it burns a valve and then they are noticeable.
     
  12. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Definitely worth replacing those sprockets then! :)

    On the tires - I very much like the Pilot Road 2's. I've gotten great performance out of them in all conditions and they last long. I'm about to try a set of Bridgestone Battlax T30 EVOs which are supposed to be even better in the corners. Great prices on both those tires.

    For pads, go with the EBC Double-H Sintered ... they have ridiculous stopping power.
     
  13. Stephen6096

    Stephen6096 New Member

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    Ok, going to check valve clearances along with go with the sintered brake pads and still choosing tires.

    Also thinking about replacing the fuel lines but want to order it in advance. Does anyone know the size of the lines and also have any recommendations on what brand to get?

    Trying to make it as reliable as possible before going on this long trip.

    Thanks, Stephen
     
  14. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Headset bearings are overdue for cleaning and regreasing or replacement by that mileage, wheel bearings too. Don't use cheap-shit made-in-China bearings, and that includes "Allballs". :distress:
     
  15. ridervfr

    ridervfr Member

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    I did oem steering head bearings on my 91 and I could tell the difference just back out of the garage. I did "All Balls" on my Kawaski because an oem replacement would have been loose balls and the all balls had tapered bearings.
     
  16. Stephen6096

    Stephen6096 New Member

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    Are there any write ups on how to do this and how hard is it? I am an aircraft mechanic and car mechanic certified but never did much with motorcycles. Also is it a few hour job or 30 minute job. I'm on a time crunch kinda but it sounds like it is important to do.

    Thanks for the info and let me the details, Stephen.
     
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