6th Gen 30 Amp fuse upgrade

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Expvet, May 5, 2016.

  1. Expvet

    Expvet New Member

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    Has anyone done an upgrade to the 30 amp. fuse near the battery pictured below? It is a known problem and tends to get crispy wires and a melted fuse socket. Looking for how to information and what equipment is needed (wire gauge, fuse holder and best place to buy them). Mine is still working but showing signs of heat damage and want to address this before it strands me somewhere.

    vfr fuse.jpg
     
  2. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    Anytime there are signs of heat, it is due to resistance in the connection. Burnish the connectors in the fuse holder and the pins on the fuse.
    [​IMG]
    Get yourself a pack of emory boards for nails. Peel off rough side and trim width to fit into connectors. Flip over and do both sides. Do the pins on the fuse to get rid of any oxidation or corrosion. Does not take much resistance to generate heat with low voltage systems. I believe NAPA has inline fuse holders like the one on the bike. 30 amps is a lot of current, good clean contacts are essential.

    Photo was of my 2003 stator connector, note the discoloration of the middle pin.
     
  3. Terry Smith

    Terry Smith Member

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    If the fuse socket is melting that would suggest heat due to a high resistance through the fuse/holder, which would normally be a sign of corrosion at the terminals, so before you look to update maybe just try cleaning the parts and applying some dielectric grease.
     
  4. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    See that shitty little RED/WHITE wire going into the fuse on the one side? see how small it is compared to the other side?

    Replace that little bastard with the same gauge as the other side (12g I think) and you're laughing. Also check for oxidization while you're in there.

    Alternatively, just pick up a new fuse holder with 12g wire already attached to both ends (pick it up at any automotive store) and solder that SOB in there ... BAM! You're done.
     
  5. V4toTour

    V4toTour New Member

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    Yes. Replace it with a sealed automotive style inline one. You should be able to find one at any decent auto parts shop. I installed one similar to this on my bike:

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    Where is yours showing heat damage? At the connectors or the wires? I believe the heavier wire just has thicker insulation because it goes through the frame, the short wire is just a jumper with thinner insulation. 12 gauge wire is rate by the National Electrical Code is rated at 25-30 amps depending on the insulation type. I rewired my 2003 from the output of the R/R back to the battery with 10 gauge wire, Honda chose to use two smaller conductors in parallel. My thinking was if one of the two conductors connections failed, the full 30 load would be on the remaining conductor. Most photos I have seen have been connectors melting, not the wiring. The resistance of the wire is low compared to oxidized/corroded connectors and does not change, whereas the contact resistance does change with time.

    I used the same fuse holder on my 2003, got them at NAPA. Just make sure connections are solid.
     
  7. Expvet

    Expvet New Member

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  8. Jeff_Barrett

    Jeff_Barrett Member

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    Pretty simple stuff ... disconnect the battery, snip the old one out, SOLDER the new one in ... :)
     
  9. Allyance

    Allyance Insider

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    Get some heat shrink tubing to insulate your solder joints (remember to slip it over wires first!), don't rely on electrical tape, adhesive get gooey after awhile.
     
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