Rectifier regulator failure?

First I am a DIY guy and it appears that the R/R on my wife's 2008 VFR800 ABS has failed. Symptoms, the battery discharged while riding and bike failed to start using starter, but did start with a push. I have followed the testing procedures in the factory shop manual.

Here are my results and based on my results I am assuming that the Rectifier Regulator has failed. Give me you opinion please.

Fully charged battery 12.8 volts after 8 hours of sitting 12.9 volts.

Test done when bike was hot.

Voltage inspection
at idle 1200 rpm 11.6 volts
at 5000 rpm (recommended test rpm) 11.83 volts at battery
NOTE: headlight on high and GPS on. No other accessories.

Alternator Charging Inspection
Using the 3P all yellow wires, no continuity to ground
All combinations of yellow to yellow are with in spec. 0.3 to 0.4 ohms. Spec says 1.0 to 0.1 ohms.

Rectifier Regulator Inspection
3P connector (yellow wires) to R/R disconnected Spec says 1.0 to 0.1 ohms.
Reading is 0.0 ohms in all combinations of three yellow wires.

6P connector cleaned and reconnected to factory harness, bike not running. R/W wire battery voltage is 12.5 volts on both R/W wires. Same as the battery at time of test.
Ground test 0.1 ohms

Additional comments. The 3 pin connector to the alternator was clean and free of burn and/or corrosion.
The 6 pin connector to the rectifier regulator did have some white colored corrosion and was very difficult to separate. No evidence of burned connector or wire.

So for those that have been down this path is the Rectifier Regulator toast?

I have no idea on the age of the battery. We have had no issues in three years.

Additional comments. The 3 pin connector to the alternator was clean and free of burn and/or corrosion. The 6 pin connector to the rectifier regulator did have some white colored corrosion and was very difficult to separate. No evidence of burned connector or wire.

 

If ya don't know how old the battery is, take it to a auto supply like O'Rilleys and have it tested. Think the life of a battery seems to be around five years.
Good luck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Part of the charging circuit flows through the plug atop the starter solenoid, so unplug and inspect the bottom of it for signs of distress. I'd suspect the 6P plug that was hard to separate had some heat-related melting going on. :sour:

 

There should not be continuity between the 3 wires on the RR side, if there is then the RR is shorted internally.

 

Ohm'ing the stator is a worthless endevour in my opinion. You need to measure the AC voltage output above 3k rpm between all paired combinations of the 3 yellow wires.

You'll need a charged battery to run the bike because you'll be doing this with the stator unplugged from the regulator

 

squirrelman see photo. I have I have removed the red plug and there way light corrosion but no signs of heat distress. I also removed the two connectors to the starter cleaned and reinstalled. The 6 pin was tough to get apart but no signs of heat, just corrosion.

Prior to cleaning and reassembly of the solenoid when I hit the starter button there sounds like arcing at the solenoid, but no signs of arcing. After reassembly same thing. I still have 11.6 volts at the battery at 5k rpm.

 

V4toTour: How is this test performed? yellow to yellow or yellow to ground? or something different.

 

Set your meter to AC voltage.

Name the yellow wires A,B,C

One yellow wire to one meter lead, another yellow wire to the other meter lead.

You'll test A+B, B+C, A+C. NO GROUND

Rev bike up above 3k. You should see around 50V+ that will climb to a point as engine speed increases. You should see that voltage range on all 3 wire combos.

If you're getting like 20V at 3K rpm for example on any combination, your stator is toast.

 

If all else fails read this take note of post number 9
http://vfrworld.com/forums/showthread.php/39277-How-to-fix-common-regulator-Stator-failures

 

It looks like my Alternator is toast. here are the readings across the three wires

AC Voltage @4600 rpm – 46, 41.8, 16.7

 

If your measurements are correct, your RR rectifier diodes are shorted (0 ohms from pin to pin at the three-pin plug) and they caused one phase of the stator to short (16.7V between two of the yellow wires).

The general consensus around here is to get a MOSFET RR which runs much cooler and lasts longer than the OEM piece, and get an OEM stator. Aftermarket stators have been iffy, some are fine, some aren't. Replace the 3-pin plug with a heavier duty type, or eliminate it entirely and solder the stator wires directly to the RR. It's usually recommended to beef up the wiring from the RR to the battery. Lots and lots of threads here and at VFRD about charging problems. All Hondas seem prone to them.

 

Thanks. It seems that the service manual is a bit confusing on this point of testing the three yellow wires from the RR. The manual states the same values for the three yellow wires from the stator and from the RR 0.1 to 1.0 ohms. I did question that when I read it and when I got 0 ohms on the RR side.

I did to the diode test with the help of Jack from Roadstercycle. They tested fine. He actually had me preform test that are out side of the service manual, very helpful including the AC Voltage test and confirmed the stator is bad.

 

There is a reason why we have our own test procedure here thanks to MelowDude

 

Great to see the usual folks on here are still ready to pitch in and have helped point you in the right direction.

Your stator is dead - fit an OEM replacement. To thread the stator wires through the gap below the engine, the attached connector is best separated from the yellow leads. Use a thin blade (jewellers screwdriver) to slide down the back of each pin and carefully release the locking tab.

To install the new stator - free off the cable retainer on the old stator it is lurking at the back inside the stator housing, then cut the connector from the old stator cables and attach drag wire (a piece of spare wire) using plenty of insulation tape.

Take close note of the wiring routing (maybe take some photos). Carefully pull the old stator wires and drag wire through to the stator housing side.
Connect the wires from new stator to the drag wire using fresh insulation tape and carefully use it to drag the yellow wires through to the RR side. Disconnect the drag wire and reinstate the yellow wires in the connector. If the old connector looks suspect, consider eliminating the connector entirely by soldering and heat-shrinking the stator wires directly to the RR wires. its AC so it does not matter which of the 3 yellow stator wires gets soldered to which of the 3 yellow wires leading to the RR.

Fit stator and cable retainer. Then check the wiring routing - a spinning stator flywheel can quickly slice through any loose wires.

Maybe consider fitting a volt meter to keep an eye on the system volts. It won't prevent problems, but should allow you to spot if the volts have suddenly dropped off spec and gives you a chance to head the bike to a safe place before the energy left in the battery is drained and you are left stranded.

Good luck




SkiMad

 

Yep, when your R/R gets to the point where it's completely toast, very good chance it's going to drag the stator down with it.

I replaced the OEM R/R on my 99 when I bought it at 28K. Voltage was low, but it wasn't shorted out. Fitted a MOSFEt unit that is still going. The OEM stator now has 72K on it as a result

 

skimad4x4 - I was looking at that process last night and was going to do exactly what you describe for the wire routing. thanks.

 

So can anyone tell me where the negative from the battery attaches to the frame and motor on a 2008? I have looked in my service manual and can find nothing. So before I pull stuff apart a little direction would be helpful.

 

Yup. Its up under the tank

 

LOL yep I knew when I said a little help I would get something like this. Thanks Jeff. Could you be more specific please?