Winterizing

Discussion in 'General VFR Discussions' started by skimad4x4, Oct 11, 2016.

  1. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    WINTERIZING

    Its that time again over here in the Alps so here is my 2p.

    Obviously only you can decide what if anything makes sense for your bike, in your climate.

    If winters are mild and you intend riding most days through the winter, then enjoy yourself, don’t crash and remember to wash off any road salt frequently.
    But if your bike is parked outside for many months under a tarp in extreme cold then the full winterization steps listed in your manual is probably the best way to ward off corrosion problems and keep the bike ready to run in Spring.

    Personally I choose a middle course. As I live in a ski resort with typically 9 metres snowfall each winter, my bikes are stored for 5 months in an unheated garage without electricity and with only basic preparation my bikes always started first time. Whilst outside temps dip below -20, inside it can be-5, so all I bother with each winter are Fuel, Coolant, Battery, Tyres, Corrosion and Security.

    Run fuel low, then fill with top quality (Mobil/Exxon not supermarket) ethanol free petrol. If you have a choice between 95 and 98 octane rating choose the higher so even if the octane rating drops the fuel will still be good to fire up next spring. Buy a can with 5 litres extra petrol to completely fill the tank up when home. (NB with quality fuel in the bike, I have never bothered with draining the tank or adding stabiliser)

    If you are DIY servicing the bike, ensure the antifreeze concentration is up to spec.

    Remove the battery and keep it indoors at home, put on a battery tender for 1 hour each month.

    Put bike in a location where it will not need to be moved until spring. Put bike on main stand and add 2PSI to normal tyre pressures (enough to cover loss over 6 months) place bag of sand on rear seat to lift almost all weight off the front tyre (no flat spots). Then top petrol tank to the brim.

    Spray all shiny bits (but NOT the brakes or tyres) with light coat of ACF50 to stop corrosion. Yes use it on the exhaust – which will be really smokey for 20 minutes next spring,

    Cover bike with a tarp, and as bike will be unattended for many months secure with a quality D lock to wall shackle or another bike.




    SkiMad
     
  2. zombie

    zombie New Member

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    Had to look up the ACF50, that should work a treat. I used to use the Amsoil MP spray on my vehicles but haven't seen it recently. Looks like you have it all covered other than maybe elastic band a bag over the exhaust tips and the intake to keep the critters and their seeds out. That's always a problem I have and it reminds me that I have to make a grill for the intake that will be there all the time. I don't do anything with mine as far as storage goes as I try to take it out for a spin whenever the roads are dry and cleanish even if it's -10 C.
     
  3. slovcan

    slovcan New Member

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    That is all good information. Your bikes are fuel injected, though. That kind of eliminates the old fuel problem. For those with carburetors, we MUST use a fuel stabilizer in the tank (I use Seafoam) and run the engine long enough to get the carbs full of treated gas. I put it in at the gas station when I fill up. Even the best gas will varnish the pilot circuits in carbs if left untreated for 5 months.

    Cheers,
    Glenn
     
  4. nookiaz

    nookiaz New Member

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    Well over here the leaves have fallen making the road slippery...so it's time to hibernate the VFR. And since I only put less than 1000km on my oil this season, mostly highway & country road rides. Will it be overkill by changing the oil before storage? I use Motul 300V & it's still clear when viewing through the sight glass.
     
  5. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Best to unplug fuel pump and run the carbs dry, then open choke fully and let it run another 10 seconds, then drain float bowls, then crank it over for about 10 seconds to suck any remaining fuel from the jets. Best for long-term inactivity. I'm in the peculiar camp of carb drainers and won't relay upon Stable over the months, but slovcan's method would likely work as well. :smug:

    I believe every carbed bike's owners manual i ever read suggested DRAINING the carbs for winter storage.

    Put a sock in it: Your exhaust.
     
  6. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    Some useful common threads emerging especially the need for a different approach for any older models fitted with carbs.

    :smow::panda::smow::panda::smow::panda::smow::panda::smow::panda::smow:

    Thankfully its so cold in winter over here that we have no nesting critters to worry about. If there are critter issues where you live then it sounds a good idea to take steps to keep critters from hibernating in the bike.

    I guess the cheap plastic exhaust stoppers sold on eBay.com would be a simple way to block an exhaust, and act as a visual reminder to remove it in spring.:target:

    As for stopping critters nesting in the air-box - with luck someone else will be along soon to post up a photo how-to showing what to use and where, to keep critters out. :chaingun:

    As for changing the oil and filter despite low mileage the question really depends on your pocket and how long since it was last done. Obviously it won't hurt assuming you don't use a K&N filter, but personally I service my bikes in spring changing oil and filters and giving the bike a full pre-season check-over, that way I know any issues have been identified and the bike is fully ready for the riding season. I don't see oil changes as being linked to winterizing except when planning an ultra long lay-up.

    Just my 2p


    SkiMad
     
  7. djenkins

    djenkins New Member

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    Thanks for the timely post and advice.

    Along with the items you suggest, my 2007 VFR800A's owner's manual recommends removing the spark plugs and poring a tablespoon of engine oil into the cylinders, then turning the engine over a few times and replacing the plugs. I used to do this every winter to my last bike (80's era Yamaha 400), but it was easy to remove the plugs on that one. The VFR is a whole 'nother animal. What do you think of skipping this step? The bike will probably be stored at least 3 months (December through February--yes, I admit to being a wimp about riding when there's snow or below freezing weather). Is removing/replacing the plugs as difficult as I think it is?
     
  8. James Bond

    James Bond Member

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    This is a really scary thread. My winterizing consists of riding my bike. I'm glad everybody can't live down here.....
     
  9. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    Never bothered myself and following the precautions described above the bike has always fired up first time typically after the bike has been parked from November to April.

    However I always service the bike at the start of each riding season, when the oil, filters and plugs get replaced. Inherently putting oil into the bores before any protracted storage makes sense, so it really depends on how long you expect to leave the bike parked up.

    If you follow the manual and have the right tools, pulling the plugs is a standard service task and is not a huge challenge especially if you can get the bike at a sensible working height.

    SkiMad
     
  10. GatorGreg

    GatorGreg Honda Fanboy/LitiGator

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    "Winterizing" down here means digging around my closet for the liner to my jacket - I know its gotta be in there somewhere :beguiled:
     
  11. GigemVFR

    GigemVFR New Member

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    Yeah, I always thought "winterizing" meant switching from cold beer to whiskey for the colder weather.

    :drinker:
     
  12. 34468 Randy

    34468 Randy Secret Insider

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    If your owner's manual says to remove the plugs and pour in a touch of engine oil, then you would not be wrong. Whether it is needed or not is another question. Of course it depends on how much you ride during the on season and how long your off season is. It is not an issue with me because I ride mine often enough in the winter to consider it being year round riding. But if I didn't, I am satisfied that the residue of oil from the engine that is left on the crucial parts of your engine is sufficient for the average length of time a bike would sit idle through the winter. Except maybe in Siberia or Baffin Island.

    Fall is a good time to go over the bike with a fine tooth comb though.
     
  13. zombie

    zombie New Member

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    Went out for a ride yesterday, it was hovering around 2 degrees Celsius. Had a great ride then stored it. I mean that I rode it into the garage and plugged it into the battery tender. Going to ride it whenever I get the chance over the winter.
     
  14. skimad4x4

    skimad4x4 "Official" VFRWorld Greeter

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    So almost 5 months later its probably right to conclude this thread by confirming the planned winterizing ensured the VFR started first time after its long winter nap.

    There is still a fair bit of snow around but the main roads are at last clear so the after reinstalling the fully charged battery, I checked and adjusted the tyre pressures (down 2lb front and rear [so net down 4lb over the winter as I pushed them up 2lb before the bike was parked up]). Eased the bike out of the garage and it started first time. A few minutes later most of the ACF50 smoke had cleared and I was good to go.

    Lake Geneva was shrouded in mist but the Gavot plateau had mostly clear blue skies, and dry empty roads - just perfect to hear that V4 working hard.

    IMG_4425.jpg IMG_4433a.jpg




    SkiMad
     
  15. Diving Pete

    Diving Pete Member

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    The mist was the ACF still burning off....
     
  16. GatorGreg

    GatorGreg Honda Fanboy/LitiGator

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    Lake Geneva shrouded in mist? You sure it wasn't just smoke on the water? :glee:

    [video=youtube;F7ZF2xaNhyw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F7ZF2xaNhyw[/video]
     
  17. squirrelman

    squirrelman Member

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    Easy way to oil the cylinders is to remove tank and airbox top, then pour a tablespoon of oil into each carb throat and crank the engine over briefly without starting.
     
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