Pressing on the chain rivet

Discussion in 'Mechanics Garage' started by Lint, Apr 3, 2017.

  1. Lint

    Lint Member

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    Anyone in Ventura county or nearby that had the right tool for pressing the chain on? A friend lent me his Motion Pro chain too, but it's only for removing the chain, and I broke it, so I'm waiting on the replacement parts to come in the mail. I thought I could use it to flair the rivets, but I also need the tool to press on the link plate. I ended up cutting the chain of with a Dremel, but now I'm stuck on how to get the chain on.

    Please let me know ASAP.
     
  2. VFR4Lee

    VFR4Lee Member

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    Gave it back to the friend that lent it to me.
    Tool was about $60 on Amazon, but I guess you got it covered.
     
  3. Lint

    Lint Member

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    Not yet. I got the chain off, but I need help getting it pressed on now.
     
  4. VFR4Lee

    VFR4Lee Member

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  5. CatHerder

    CatHerder New Member

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    I'll probably get flamed for this, but you could use a clip style link....
     
  6. Lint

    Lint Member

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    I've thought about using that as a temporary measure, but then I'd have no warranty at all on the chain.
     
  7. FJ12rydertoo

    FJ12rydertoo Member

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    Well, if you have the tool to flare the pins then you could use a pair of vice grips to press the side plate on. I've done that with clip-style links. Not for the bikes I have now, both of those are rivet-style links.
     
  8. Mark919

    Mark919 New Member

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    My Motion Pro jumbo has a press plate... It's just a small rectangular plate with a center locating pin and two adjacent rivet clearance holes.
    Maybe your friend just didn't give you all the pieces.
     
  9. duccmann

    duccmann Member

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    Did you get it done?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  10. Lint

    Lint Member

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    Hi, I actually verified with Motion Pro that the tool I have is only for braking the chain. It's this tool here, https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0001

    I think I'm just going to press on the plate with a small C-clamp that I have and then use it to flare the rivets.

    According to RK; The flare can be as little as 0.152mm to 0.5mm but should never be over 0.7mm. The rivet pin should be flared just enough to keep the sideplate on, but not flared too much to bind the link. When using the RK Chain Press-Fit/Rivet Tool you should be able to feel when you've reached the right flare

    This is from their page: http://rkexcelamerica.com/maintenances.html down the page a bit, it has picture examples of what it should look like. I'll just work slowly and use my calipers to make sure nothing is over tightened.
     
  11. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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  12. Lint

    Lint Member

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  13. V4toTour

    V4toTour New Member

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    If you're in a pinch, the cheapo harbor freight chain breaker can actually be used to rivet as well. I used one for a while before buying a legit kit. In fact, I never actually used the HF tool for breaking, since I would just chop through the old chain with a death wheel on an angle grinder.

    I think there's a video on YouTube of some setting up the HF breaker to rivet, pretty easy.
     
  14. Lint

    Lint Member

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  15. V4toTour

    V4toTour New Member

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    That shows how to set it up for riveting, for pressing on I recall doing the following:

    Install your O-rings and master link end plate by hand to get started on the pins:

    on the tool , leave out the golf tee (extra pin) he shows tossing in as a backing plate. So you just have the open hole on that side of the "U"

    Remove or back out the pin from the screw fitting side so you're left with just the flat blunt end of the screw.

    Place the tool dead center on the link, and tighten down until the master link plate is flush with the ends of the pins.

    Place the tool so the end of the "U" with the hole is over the end of one of the pins on the link plate side. (hole will let pin travel forward through the link plate as you press)

    Tighten the tool a bit to begin pressing the link pin through the plate, stop and switch to the other pin.

    Work between the two gradually tightening. Be careful not to over press, trying to back out the link plate is not something you want to do.

    Basically, try to get the plates on the master link to be sitting in line with the plates on the links attached to it. You can also keep checking the flex of the master link vs the surrounding ones to make sure you didn't over tighten.

    Once the link plate is pressed on far enough, set the tool up to rivet as shown in the video. Put in that extra pin through the hole, spin the tool around that side will rest against the backside of the master link. Tighten the other pin back down so it protrudes from the end of the screw. You only need a little bit sticking out, just enough to spread the ends of the pins. When you're tightening down to rivet, wrench on the large head of the screw the pin is sitting inside NOT the small end of the adjuster screw that pushes against the pin.

    Don't over press the pin ends, you can split them if you go to far. double check the size of the rivet you're making as you go until you're happy with it.
     
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