Frame Sliders, crash protectors whatever they are called? Who has them a what should I buy for the 2

Discussion in '8th Generation 2014-Present' started by Bubba Utah, Apr 5, 2017.

  1. Bubba Utah

    Bubba Utah Member

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    Can anyone tell me what type to buy for the 2014 and at the best cost. I looked on ebay for 25 mins I saw prices on these from $30 to $95 and need to know how easy they are to install. They look like you need to drill into the body work to fit. Please let me know. Thanks.
     
  2. Thumbs

    Thumbs Member

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    There's at least 2 types that involve no drilling or other modifications

    I've got the T-Rex ones and they were a breeze to fit, don't have to remove the fairing, just undo the bolts and work in the gap
     
  3. OOTV

    OOTV Insider

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    A company in Australia made some "no cut" sliders for the 6 Gen, they are called 'OggyKnobs', they may also make them for the 8 Gen. However, they are not cheap!
     
  4. mofo

    mofo New Member

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    Bubba, what on earth are you talking about? Read my signature.
    Kidding man, I know nothing about sliders........or anything for that matter. lol
     
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  5. Samuel

    Samuel Member

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  6. Samuel

    Samuel Member

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  7. jcubz

    jcubz New Member

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    Assuming you're not as dumb as I am and strip the bolt in the process
     
  8. Bubba Utah

    Bubba Utah Member

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    I like that! I wish I had a signature. I will agree that how most of us ride on a slow moving bike will benefit with them. I tend to total bikes when I have wrecked (once) and came out well with the insurance. That is not always the case, but I would rather take the total to a busted up bike and start new.
     
  9. Bubba Utah

    Bubba Utah Member

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  10. Bubba Utah

    Bubba Utah Member

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    Wow, $295 new! I think that I will pass. May I never need them and keep giving those panhandlers (the ones with wounds visible in a wheel chair) money for good Karma! Thanks for the Info Samuel!
     
  11. Bubba Utah

    Bubba Utah Member

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    I have been known to be to anxious and F... things up. Also reading directions is an issue for me!:chaingun:
    The tail tidy is an example! :cower:
     
  12. Thumbs

    Thumbs Member

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    Let me guess, top right hand side?

    I put the bolts in until they bottomed out each side first, that bolt was about 5mm to long so I cut it and ran a die down another 5mm

    I'm always wary of steel into alloy, had too many go on me so now dry run first

    T-Rex sliders $175 http://t-rex-racing.com/catalog.php?item=562
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2017
  13. V45mikie

    V45mikie New Member

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    I'm running the T-Rex on mine and they go on /in pretty good. FYI they are big and when I've ridden with the seat in the down position my knees hits them. Oddly I've mounted a RAM ball mount on one for mounting my action cams.
    Its creepy pulling out the engine mount bolts to install these so you do need a torque wrench to do it right.
    Having said that I do like them and they have could have saved me some major money . I dropped mine in the grass when the kick stand sank into the lawn....grrrrr!! Its all fixed however.
     
  14. Ken_VFR1200

    Ken_VFR1200 New Member

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    Try T Rex racing. Mount using factory bolts. Have on my vfr 1200 2010



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  15. V4toTour

    V4toTour New Member

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    sow refers to them as "drop nubs". because sliding would infer the bike was in motion.
     
  16. Rsparky

    Rsparky New Member

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    Just installed t-rex this weekend. Best sliders I've seen. Hands down. I've had LSL, R&G, and woodcraft.

    The "puck" is much more than that. It is a machined block of dense plastic. It won't crack when you go down.

    I'm amazed it was hard enough to cut. Plastic is usually gummy when milled. And the top face with the criss-cross ball mill grooves, very cool. These guys operate a quality machine shop.

    My one gripe is that one bracket piece had a small flake in the anodize. At my shop, we send a lot of stuff out for anodizing, and I do see that occasionally. Not a super big deal to me though.

    As for shin placement, I have zero issues. I wear size 10 alpinestars smx3 boots. I have to put the very back heel of my boot on the peg in order to touch the bracket. Not likely.

    Instructions were simple enough. The threads in the sub frame seemed shoddily tapped. Surprising for Honda. I didn't have a tap to run through, but worked the bolt back and forth. Used Moly on all the bolts and torqued to 35 ftlb. Chose a lube over a thread lock because I do remove the fairings to tinker, somewhat frequently. I'll let you guys know if anything vibrates loose! Lol

    Overall 9/10. American made, high quality, and I suspect very durable.

    Also, get used to changing how you look down for the kickstand. I couldn't see it, and went to to first while it was down still! Embarrassing.
     
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  17. Badbilly

    Badbilly Official VFRWorld Troll Of The Year!

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  18. rckrzy1

    rckrzy1 New Member

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    Those are the old version sliders, the new ones I got for $134.95 on ebay. I like them and I have no issues bumping them. Install took 5 mins.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/231828724215?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
     
  19. Bubba Utah

    Bubba Utah Member

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  20. scottbott

    scottbott Member

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    I have R&G sliders fitted by the previous owner on mine also R&G bar end sliders,I refitted the frame sliders yesterday after having the side panels off,they have big long bolts that screw into the frame hopefully will never have to use them
     
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