2000 UK spec VFR800Fi will not start

My VFR will not start, it turns over and I have a spark and it stinks of fuel if its turned over for too long and when the plugs are removed they are all wet. I have swapped the plugs twice for new ones. New Oil & filters. The compression is about 150 psi (cold with T/Bodies removed). The complete T/Body assmbly has been changed so it has different injectors in etc, it still did not work so I put the original T/Bodies back on. The Starter valve operates correctly (removed the wax bit and put it in hot water) and the valves operate freely, No vacuum leaks I can find and with my finger over each of the vacuum test points I can feel the vacuum. Fitted a different battery (from my other bike), no difference. No FI light errors on the dash. Checked various resistances and they are all within spec. I possibly thought it could be a coil problem, but all 4??? Its gear driven cams so timing should not be and issue as once its set it cannot be altered, I get a pulse from the Cam Position Sensor. Removed the vacuum pipe from the map sensor and it brought an FI light on. I'm now at a complete loss as to what to look for next.

Tanks been drained and pump & filter removed and checked as best as I can, the tank is spotless inside and the filter is clean (connected my comressor to it and air passed through witout restriction). New fuel added and pump primes etc and if you squash the hose with you fingers while priming it gets harder.

I started to trace various wires but the Haynes manual I have looks like it is wrong and the pdf copy I have of the Honda service manual does not cover my bike as my bike has HISS and the manual does not mention it, so I think it is for a 1998 US model.

Has anyone got a manual or just a wiring diagram for a 2000 UK bike with HISS (not the Haynes one)??

Any help would bu greatly appreciated :thumbsup:

 

Just checked the coils. 3.2ohm across all the primary and 18.8K across one of the primary teminals and the secondary terminals and all 4 read the same, so Idoubt if it is the coils unless all 4 are faulty. I also have just done a fuel flow measurement just over 150ml in about 10seconds which is in spec.

 

What about the kill switch

 

The Kill Switch is working correctly as it will not turn over with it off and the side stand switch has been tested as has the clutch switch.

 

I almost said "What about neutral position sensor?" but you said it's turning over so it's not any sensors. Fuel is not an issue so it's spark or air. Most likely spark. Regulator/rectifier seems to be a common issue. I'd start there since you've done the rest.

 

Another update. Took the plugs out Saturday and dried them out and checked the gaps, took all the terminals off the coils, relays and anything else I could find and gave them a clean. Left the bike for a few hours and then put the plugs back in etc, pressed the button and it started, sort off!!! It was running rough for a while and then started to even out and by the time it had reached 70deg it revved freely, connected the vacuum gauges up and synced the starter valves. Brilliant I thought.
I did not touch the bike yesterday as I was out.
I went into the garage tonight and it would not start, took the plugs out and they were soaked, dried them off with a heat gun and put them back in the bike while they were still hot, pressed the button and it fired up on one cylinder (no. 1), it ran for a few seconds with the throttle wound open and then died and would not re-start, checked the header temperatures No. 1 was hot'ish and the other 3 were cold, took the plugs out again and they were wet.
Wheeled it back in the garage and shut the door.

 

Have you replaced the r/r? I don't think it will magically start working for the long run.

 

Man I feel your pain. At least you got the bike running for a bit so there is light at the end of the tunnel!

This sounds more like a spark problem than anything else, as changing the TBs didn't change anything, and you know you have fuel getting through. I know you have got decent coils, but are you getting enough voltage to them? I had some dirty connectors on my ST1100 and that was reducing voltage that was reaching the ECU and thence the coils, so I had a weak spark. I ended up pulling apart the connectors that feed power to/from the right bar pod and finding corrosion there (and in other connectors too). May also be worth finding and cleaning the earth point connectors.

One other question would be around the state of the charging system and battery. If the charging system has failed (specifcally the RR) then the voltage will be dropping whilst running.

When you swapped the TB's, did you also swap the fuel pressure regulator? If this has failed you might be getting excessive fuel pressure and hence bigger injection volumes/rich conditions.

 

Think too much fuel, the plugs are fouled every time you have checked. Correct? Sounds like there is too much fuel in the cylinders even before you crank it over.

I'm wondering if the injectors are letting fuel pressure release when the engine is not turning over.
I don't know why both sets of injectors would be leaking, unless before you dumped the old fuel, it was pumped into both sets.
If that happened, they may have impurities that allow the fuel to pass into the motor.

Is your oil level above the level that you filled it to? If so, it may have gasoline in the motor oil.

 

Hi, new to the forum. Had the same issue with my 1998 VFR. Purchased a second hand ECM from the wreckers. Problem fixed.

 

Well she's alive and kicking. Stripped the bike down again, re-checked valves, cleaned gummed up PAIR reeds etc, took coils off and cleaned all the connections as well as any other connection I could find. Re-checked all the vacuum tubes, fitted the spare T/Bodies spent all day on it, put it back together and away it went. I'v done about 200 miles on it since then and its not missed a beat. So it looks like I fixed the problem, but I have no idea which 'fix' fixed it