hindsight wiring regrets

Discussion in '8th Generation 2014-Present' started by Samuel, May 13, 2017.

  1. Samuel

    Samuel Member

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    Hi All,





    Awhile back, I installed a Denali split sound bomb and added some additional running lights. In order to get switched on power for the relays, I tapped into the positive tail light wire (brown/black wire). I cut the wire, added some connectors with an extra post, and then connected the relays to the post. Shortly afterwards, of course, I found that there is a 3 prong connector just a little ways up the wire from where I had cut (DOH!). Being that I still have some more electrical accessories that I'm planning on adding (extra brake light and maybe some driving lights), I'm going to do what I would have done from the get go if I had just done a little more planning/researching (so I wouldn't have had to permanently modify/damage OEM wiring).





    I got some Sumitomo connectors from this website: http://www.cycleterminal.com/hx-series.html and am going to add an extra section of wiring with easy access posts. Note that there are two versions of this connector - one with a wide "snap lock" and one with a narrow one - I bought the wide one.

    Here is the connector (just following the wiring from the tail light towards the gas tank):

    [​IMG]

    Here is the new section I'm going to put in:

    [​IMG]

    FWIW, I've never been a fan of the snap lock style splice connectors - I've always felt that using those would sever a few of the strands of the wire I was tapping into. So, if you're OCD/quirky/stupid about that like me, adding a fresh section of wiring might be a reasonable alternative...
     
  2. NorcalBoy

    NorcalBoy Member

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    You need to install a fuse block with a single relay triggered off the tailight wire with a posi-tap connector. Not sure what I'm looking at there.
     
  3. Rsparky

    Rsparky New Member

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    ^^^ best option.

    Next best, and what I typically do, is solder. Cut one wire, and twist another into it to make a Y. Putting a small and large diameter shrink on first. The solder blob can get big. As for connections, cycleterminal rocks. But... I can't say that I don't have the crimp spade connectors on my aux lights right now. My additional rear lighting uses a 5 pin trailer connector. (ign, brake, signal, signal, ground) Good enough for towing in the rain, good enough for me I guess.
     
  4. Samuel

    Samuel Member

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    Hi NCB, I should have explained better - I was trying to show an alternative way to access that taillight wire circuit for relay triggering without damaging/molesting the stock OEM wiring like I originally did...
     
  5. Rsparky

    Rsparky New Member

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    It is a good option, if you plan to return to stock to sell. But if I were to buying used, I'd be happy with more farkles.
     
  6. Samuel

    Samuel Member

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    I hear you RS, I'm all about farkling - useful and otherwise... lol Once I get over this cold that's been kicking my ass and finish all my mods (at least for the meantime), I'll post them up... :)
     
  7. fink

    fink Member

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    I make up wiring harnesses that simply clip in to the existing loom giving you a switched feed. Do you have a dlx version?
     
  8. Samuel

    Samuel Member

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    Hi Fink, yes DLX. I know I have an accessory output under the seat for the 12v socket accessory, is that the one you use? I have a few questions about that, gonna start a thread in a bit and ask for some help...
     
  9. Jhaydeno

    Jhaydeno New Member

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    If you guys are going to update your rear 1 filament yellow turns to 2 color running/turn LEDS, keep in mind that the DLX doesn't use a typical 4 prong blinker that can be replaced by a digital relay, they use an 11 wire system for the auto turn cancelling that includes the ABS sensors for measuring distance. Ask me how I know....

    None the less, it can be done. I wanted three running red LEDs across the rear for night time safety, with the turns to be yellow LEDs. I installed 1173 double bulb sockets and two color LED's in the outboard clear turns, and instead of replacing the 11 pin blinker relay, I had to install a resistor across each yellow LED to get the amp draw up to that of a filament and the blinker rate down. It took a little work to find a location that I could mount a hot resistor, but it came out nicely.

    Here's the before and after picture of the rear end in the dark: Left - New setup +2 red LED. Middle - original center only LED. Right - Yellow Hazards

    MC5.jpg
     
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  10. Samuel

    Samuel Member

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    Cool! :)
     
  11. Rsparky

    Rsparky New Member

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    That sounds like work. You replaced the stock stuff, instead of just adding on? I just had to trace the hot for each, and splice into it to add more. And as for the self canceling bs, that's been cut for a while. Honda couldn't have thought of sobering more useless than that...
     
  12. Jhaydeno

    Jhaydeno New Member

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    It wasn't bad - the hardest part was trying to dismantle the tail - I was deathly afraid I would break a tab! Once I figured that out, new sockets were a snap to put in and wire. I tapped & split my original rear running light wire to the new sockets powering the red portion of the bulb and wired back in the original turn wire to the new socket. The yellow turn/hazard signal actually disables the running red within the bulb somehow, so no relays were required. Again, if you want the yellow to blink at the right rate it's only a matter of a cheap resistor (8ohm?) in series on the deluxe. Standard models only need the new digital relay from Ebay for $17.
     
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