Give me a brake

Well. Now I am seriously looking at a brake overhaul. The brakes work still. Except there seems to be an increase in the amount of brake dust on the wheels. Seems quite a bit more. But it does not seem like they are dragging. Last brake pad change was in 2014 just before R3 2014. Don't remember how many miles I have put on those pads but it is getting up there.

Thing is, the rotors are original equipment and the bike is high mileage (creeping up on 205,000 km), so I am thinking it is time to spend some time and money on the brakes. Braided brake lines are still under consideration but with everything else added to this, that extra expense might push this to a point that I can't afford the braided lines. But everything else is going to be taken apart, cleaned up and rebuilt where needed.

My question for you to consider for me, what rotors do you think may be my better choice. I want rotors that are as good as if not better than OEM. But understand, I am not a really a hard and highly skilled technical rider so high performance is not necessary unless that is determined to be cheaper.

I have done some reading on some of what is out there and can't seem to come to a conclusion. If I choose to go EBC, I understand you must use EBC pads as well. Not sure if it makes any difference in the choice of rotors, but I do have ABS.

What say you, and why?

 

Well if I was in your shoes I'd go OEM as that's one area I'm sure it would be hard to improve on. Unless you did a whole conversion, meaning calibers and masters. IO'm pretty sure that's not in the plan, so stick with whats got you this far, OEM .

 

OEM can be expensive. I wouldnt mind using EBC standard rotors because the flower kind of rotors could be cheaper (and look awsome), but they wont last that much as the lack of material increases the brake power at expense of pad and rotor durability. Don't think that much about it... The more you pay, the better the quality. OEM rotors are the best in place in terms of material quality and dimensions, but for a half of budget, ebc will do pretty much the same.
Anyway you go, you'll be fine, but remember that you usually get what you paid for.

 

If your rotors are within spec, and they're not grooved, there is no reason to change them.
My opinion is that you are better off finding low mileage originals from the wreckers.
As long as you can see their condition you can't go wrong.
After market rotors aren't going to be any better, and sometimes are worse.
Stick to EBC HH pads, proven to be some of the best for as long as I can remember. I've been using them since the 80's and the few times I've changed, I ask myself "why did I do that?"
When high K bikes lose their brake performance, it is sometimes more about wear on the slide pins which stops the calipers moving freely, or straight.
Braided lines are expensive but great, but they will not fix worn out hardware.
I agree that at 205,000km, you need major service to brakes and bearings.

 

Also a quick tip, when you go to remove your rotor bolts, tap them fairly hard first, they are installed with loctite, and will sometimes strip the thread unless you crack the bond first.

 

And another tip/personal opinion, if you do want to get braided lines, to keep costs down just replace the 2 going to the front calipers, they do most of the work and the rest won't make much difference.
Calipers rebuild, second hand rotors and just two braided lines to the front will be best bang for buck.

 

I am not big on used parts. Even if so, I live in a hick town and finding a wrecked bike is not that likely. Seems I will be getting new of whatever I decide on. I have had the rotor bolts off already when I had the wheels powdered white and I used them over again. I think I will be replacing them this time around too seeing as they recommend you not re-use the bolts. Seems that now would be the time to put in new as I am going through the expense. I also put new bearings in at that time too. Those should be in good shape but I might consider replacing them too. I am seriously considering re-powdering the wheels again and gong to charcoal grey this time. Maybe gold but away from the white. But I do have to draw the line somewhere at some point.

What might be the symptoms of that pin in the calipers sticking be? I was going to rebuilt what I can on those too.

Thanks for your input though.

 

OEM are good, not sure how they compare with some of the better after market options, just make sure you ask about disk thickness, I bought after market ones and they were 1mm thicker then stock. Doesn't sound like much but had a huge problem fitting calipers back in with new pads.

There are 3 pins per caliper, one that the pads slide on, and 2 that the caliper slides on.
These 2 also have some rubber boots to keep out dirt and grease in.
They should all be round and without score marks or wear, with wear the caliper no longer slides easily or straight.
Too much slop and the caliper binds as it adjusts to the disk, no major side effect, but it ads to the loss of feel and power.
From memory the OEM disk is 4.5mm thick and is usable until 3.5mm.
My guess is that with new seals, polishing the pistons and replacing pad pins it will feel much better.
Good pads (EBC HH) and clean/regrease slide pins, rebuild master cylinder will take you most of the way there.
New disks if you need them and braided lines will be the icing on the cake.

 

Or you can go the whole hog as I did.
At some of the corners at Eastern Creek I can lift the rear wheel.
Mostly from panic, not skill

 

Pull the wheels and dismount the rotors. Places like Les Schwab will check them for you for warpage. The rotors are a hell of a lot harder than brake pucks.

Rear braided lines are an extra. Front lines since most braking on a bike is done with the front brake will be improved.

Best IMO if you are not sure of your skills rebuilding brakes, Don't.

 

Safe to assume you are referring to the calipers? I have had the rotors off and on before myself without an issue and replaced the pads as well. But profess, have not done much with the calipers other than to prep them for the pads. Same with the lines. But I have bled them, not totally charged them though. I do have talented resources close at hand who I can rely on though. A few quality IPAs will usually do the trick to get them out here.

Thanks for the suggestion though.

 

I don't think that can ever happen with linked ABS brakes. Regardless, I am not likely to give that a try. At my age, we don't heal that well from our "oh shit" moments.

 

I checked partzilla for you. The cost would make a nice down payment on a new bike!
I looked into having my RD rotor resurface. The shop I took it to couldn't do it but they could send it out for $50 US.
I was satisfied with a scotchbrite pad and elbow grease.

 

Actually one of the "Carver" boys over at VFRD has a photo of one of them on a 5 Gen with the tail end up in the air. One of the drills at the Total Control ARC Level 2 class is doing stoppies. Or "panic breaking" for some...

 

I assumed you knew the difference between the rotors and the calipers. This should clear that up:

http://s.hswstatic.com/gif/disc-brake-diagram.jpg

Rotors wear and can be scored especially, if the pucks aren't inspected and wear down. Rotors can also warp. Les Schwab was mentioned because you live near the US Border and I know they will mike rotors since they are not only in the business of selling tires they do brakes, shocks and best of all will even inflate bike tires for zero pesos.

Notice that the front brakes on your bike are for a better explanation, more substantial. Steered wheel, overall weight ect. This is one of the reasons it was pointed out that braided front brake lines offer more positive braking. Also, the OEM lines are probably shot in the ass from old age.

Good that you have help and a reefer full of one of the many types of IPA.

A truncated (not trumpcated) poetic interlude:











Gunga Din - Poem by Rudyard Kipling

You may talk o' gin and beer
When you're quartered safe out 'ere,
An' you're sent to penny-fights an' Aldershot it;
But when it comes to slaughter
You will do your work on water,
An' you'll lick the bloomin' boots of 'im that's got it.
Now in Injia's sunny clime,
Where I used to spend my time
A-servin' of 'Er Majesty the Queen,
Of all them blackfaced crew
The finest man I knew
Was our regimental bhisti, Gunga Din.
He was "Din! Din! Din!
You limpin' lump o' brick-dust, Gunga Din!
Hi! slippery ~hitherao~!
Water, get it! ~Panee lao~! [Bring water swiftly.]
You squidgy-nosed old idol, Gunga Din."

 

for me, routine maintenance includes wiping down the rotors periodicaLLY with brake cleaner spray and roughing up aND DEGLAZING the surface with sandpaper.

 

Randy can measure the rotors? I don't have the manual in front of me for the spec but if they are within spec just do an overhaul on the calipers, rough up the rotor surfaces and call it a day.