Stator rectifier burned up

Is there anything other than the stator that can make the stator rectifier connecter burn up? Brand new stator and brand new rectifier installed same time bought from same company about a month ago. Replace bc last one did same thing. This is third stator and rectifier in 5 years.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

Corroded terminals indeed. Mine ended the same way.
With corroded terminals resistance and heat builds up quickly and once they are hot the plastic melts and terminals touches one each other and could even make fire.
I used a 6 pin faston connector to duplicate each pin to divide resistance and chances of failure... People around just solder them to avoid problems.
Maybe your stator works anyway, test it with a bulb and polymeter before discarding it.

 

There was no corrosion before fire. They are both less than a month old.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

Could be that your stator gave more amps than expected (stronger magnets than usual or more windings per coil) and the wire just melted.
OEM stator wire (the yellow ones) are really on the edge... And they get hot, so a little bit more amperage could be the problem here.
New does not always mean better. I'm a repair it rather than change it inclined individual, but for tastes, colours.
I don't know any other reason than hot leading to this failure.

 

Have you added any accesories that draw more power? Put higher wattage lamps in your headlights? Have your battery checked off the bike with a proper load tester. Melted connectors are from high resistance connections and possibly more of a load on the system that exceeds the current carrying capacity of the pins in the connector. Good source for high quality parts and information is roadstercycle.com.

 

Hid headlights had in for 7 years, brand ballastic battery rated for the bike but that's it

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

It was only charging at 12.86 witch seem to me to be low

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

I guess the other questions are, were these replacement Stator and RR new and were they OEM or aftermarket?

 

I've got to say here... The more electric systems you have the better. I mean: All current generated by the stator that your bike does not use, goes back to the stator over those 3 yellow tiny wires. So if you have propper headlights (not hid that draw less wattage) its better contrary of what you could think about this.
Motorbike alternators are not like the ones in you car. Motorbike one's are usually (except honda goldwing and such) driven by permanent magnets instead of a controlled emf rotor, so the alternator does not care about how many electric gadgets you have, instead, he is giving all current all time no matter what, and then is the regulator/rectifier the one who takes that current to you battery and installation depending of installation voltage. This way if the installation voltage gets over 14,5 or so volts the regulator takes power back to the alternator (to waste it) so those 3 yellow wires are loaded with half of the current if you use all current generated by the alternator, because if you do not use it, the current is going back and forth from the alternator to the regulator and back, overloading that 3 yellow wires.
Hope this explanation helps.

 

Could be due to a voltage drop accross a bad connection. Name brand stator and R/R?, could have been a defective R/R or poor quality connector.

Remember, the stator is constantly producing voltage in proportion to the RPM, then it is the R/R's job let pass only the voltage to charge the battery. It is like driving with your foot on the gas and using the brake to control your speed! Resistance in the system, whether it is from a bad connector, defective R/R or bad battery will cause the current to rise and produce heat.

 

Aftermarket "caltric" had "Rick's" before

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

I'm guessing poor quality stator and rectifier but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

If you are not electrically or mecanically inclined, take the bike to a good garaje other than the one you took the bike to. They will guide you over the process.

 

No I'm a mechanic on cars, just wanted to make sure I was missing something other than poor quality parts

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

Most owners, myself included, stay with OEM stators and RRs, if not using a new style MOSFET RR. If you search and read most of these Stator/RR post, Ricks and other non OEM components seem to not last very long. When OEM are used the three pin connectors that tie the Stator and RR together usually get tossed and the wires soldered together.

If the RR is not OEM, it's usually in favor of a Shindengen FH020A or SH847. These are MOSFET type RRs and are more efficient and seem to hold up much better. Check out www.roadstercycle.com not only do they sell the good RRs, they have really good how-to videos and other kits for installing these components.

 

no one mentioned the shunting aspect of the good old regulator rectum fyer. Its a Diode cooker basically, I didnt think the excess current went back over the yellow wires. So, voltage over certain point say 14.5 at the r/r where the diodes turn the current back toward the stator to shunt it?

 

Afaik sh847 is a series one and the fh020a a shunt type one.
Both of them gave fabulous results. I'm running a fh012ab from a triumph no problems (same connectors as the fh020 and sh847 so changing to one of those should be plug and play)

 

Yes, thats the way the oem regulator works. Some other regulator works in series, that said, series one's could fail due to high voltage peaks generated on coils when opening circuit due to excess voltage on batt.
The advantage of series over shunt is lower amp load on the wires and the stator, but high voltage is induced that could cause premature stator or wires insulation failure.

 

According to Roadtercycle, the FH020A is a MOSFET but I have no way of proving or disproving that... The SH847 appears to be a series though. Sorry for the misinformation.

FH020AA Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier

Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier only.
Straight from Shindengen these are the Best selling upgrade R/Rs on the planet.

http://roadstercycle.com/

 

In my 7th trouble free season on Shindengen FH010BA (OEM on Kaw ZX10, bought used on ebay around $50 in '09) Run cool as the proverbial cucumber.

Installed on both my '98 5th gen and '95 900SS/SP Duc at same time....both remain issue free.