86 VF500 Clutch wont disengage when cold

Discussion in '1st & 2nd Generation 1983-1989' started by jwf88, Jul 19, 2012.

  1. orion3814

    orion3814 New Member

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    by bar i meant lever. Im a southerner lol. Hittin the bar while doin work hahahhahahh. 2 much to drink hahhaha.
     
  2. jwf88

    jwf88 New Member

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    Hahaha fair enough man.
    I didn't see any lever though. I guess I'm going to drain the oil and pop off the clutch cover to inspect these plates. Although the lever isn't solid when I pinch the line, so I still feel like there's something going on with the MC, I'm just not experienced enough to know.
    I was really hoping there was somebody here who had been through this before.
     
  3. jwf88

    jwf88 New Member

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    Removed the clutch plates tonight. When I pulled them out the whole stack stuck together just strong enough to be held in the air. When I took them apart it seemed like they were suctioned to the steel plates. I'm not going to work the lever again until I get replacement motor oil and maybe new plates.

    I've never looked at worn clutch plates before, but as far as I know these have never been replaced. Does this need replacement?

    disk.jpg

    The steel disks in-between have what looks like slight burn marks on them. None of these pieces are warped.
     
  4. coucours grad

    coucours grad New Member

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    No, they have some miles left to go....clean them, oil them as you assemble them and make sure they go back in the same way they came out.....



    Lets us know how it does after you get her back together!
     
  5. jwf88

    jwf88 New Member

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    Thanks, I'm going to put it back together tomorrow. I'm wondering though, can I try operating the clutch lever while the cover is off? I'm curious to see is there is any movement taking place in there at all...
     
  6. coucours grad

    coucours grad New Member

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    yes....only way to tell if its all working like it should....but dont start it unless you like the taste of motoroil!
     
  7. jwf88

    jwf88 New Member

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    Ok, I soaked the existing plates over night and reinstalled today. As I sort of expected, when the lever was operated nothing moved. But I learned about clutch plates! Haha....

    I'm certain now it has to do with the MC or the fluid line. As I said before, when the lever is pulled, air bubbles rise to the top of the MC. I don't think this should be happening, something has to be blocking it to push air back right?. I'm gonna measure the ID of the MC bore and see if it matches the specs in the book. If that's not it, I don't know what it could be....maybe the line I guess. Or maybe a curse. Just gotta get batteries for my caliper..... damn spendin money everyday
     
  8. jwf88

    jwf88 New Member

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    Well guess what.....it turns out that the original "secondary cup" seal and spring were installed BACKWARDS. This is probably the cause of the problem...I just cant figure out how anybody got it to work this way to begin with. I misunderstood the diagram in the book and just installed the new parts the same way the old came out. I'm now getting a lot of pressure on the lever now and when I pinch the line the lever is completely solid :) good things.

    However, no matter how long I bleed this bitch bubbles continue to come out of the bleed valve on the slave. Some big and some small but they just keep coming out. I have made sure the resivour stays filled too, yet i've spent over an hour sitting there pulling and pinching the line as orions procedure.
     
  9. jwf88

    jwf88 New Member

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    Problem Solved

    The slave cylinder failed. It was just a coincidence that I discovered the master cylinder issue at the same time. Replaced the seals in both the master and the slave and now everything is golden. Thanks for the support everyone.
     
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