clutch

Paul, it may be that there is air higher up in the lines that you aren't
able to push out. A lot of time some of it will get caught near the banjo
bolt on the clutch master cylinder. The way to get this out is to first,
COVER ALL FAIRINGS,PLASTIC AND PAINTED PARTS!!!, (bad news if you don't),
then crack the banjo bolt just enough so that when you squeeze the clutch
lever fluid, or air, will seep out around it. I had air caught in mine there
once and it wouldn't work because it would compress the air instead of
pushing out the slave cylinder and applying pressure to the push rod. I
can't think that you damaged the slave at all. If you did, to exhibit the
problems that you are describing there would be fluid leaking somewhere
around the slave because the pressure would have to go somewhere. So in my
opinion, (its worth what you are paying for it), you still have air in the
system.

The other thing that worked for me once and I can't remember exactly what I
did, involved dismounting the clutch master and holding it upside down and
at diff angles, with the top on of course, and bleeding it at the slave and
otherwise just squeezing the lever quite a bit to make the air move.

Good luck!

Jeremy


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Vfr@xxxxxx
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One method of bleeding the air that gets trapped (squeezed) into the
irregular spaces of fittings and machinings is, and you will find this
COUNTER INTUITIVE but trust me IT WORKS......When you bleed the system
whether it be brakes or clutch, DON'T QUIT PUMPING THE LEVER! Even when you
crack open the bleeder. Pump using a slow and consistent stroke. As you
feel it come up or get some resistance crack open the bleeder just enough to
let out some fluid and immediately close it again DON'T STOP PUMPING THE
LEVER. You may have to repeat this 30 or 40 times and you may pull a little
air in at the bleeder but the fluid that you move further up in the system
will drag the trapped air toward the bleeder using the surface tension of
the liquid for traction. At first you may not get much fluid at the bleeder
as the feel of the system comes up the fluid will be more and appear milky
at the bleeder. That is the larger pockets of trapped air broken down into
smaller bubbles now suspended in the fluid. Once the clutch or brake lever
feels near normal now bleed it as you would normally. Pump the lever slowly
in and out. Too quick of a stroke will cause cavitation at the master cyl.
and that puts air back in the system at the top of the system again.
I've learned this method on Order Picker fork lifts that have brake lines
that are routed through the mast with other hyd hoses. Some of those
trapped pockets of air can be measured in feet and not bubbles.
I've used this method on many different bikes and even had a fellow
mechanic who couldn't get his front brakes to bleed properly argue that it
wouldn't work. He finally decided that he had nothing to loose by letting
me demonstrate my method on his Honda. He's a believer now.
Remember the whole idea is to get the trapped air up in the system to move
toward the bleeder! Not to compress the bubble just to let it expand again
after the fluid that compressed it is released. Keep the pressure on and
the air will come too.

Denny

-----Original Message-----
From: vfr-bounces@xxxxxx [mailto:vfr-bounces@xxxxxx]On Behalf
Of Jeremy Boron
Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 7:59 PM
To: nagyp@xxxxxx
Cc: vfr@xxxxxx
Subject: clutch


Paul, it may be that there is air higher up in the lines that you aren't
able to push out. A lot of time some of it will get caught near the banjo
bolt on the clutch master cylinder. The way to get this out is to first,
COVER ALL FAIRINGS,PLASTIC AND PAINTED PARTS!!!, (bad news if you don't),
then crack the banjo bolt just enough so that when you squeeze the clutch
lever fluid, or air, will seep out around it. I had air caught in mine there
once and it wouldn't work because it would compress the air instead of
pushing out the slave cylinder and applying pressure to the push rod. I
can't think that you damaged the slave at all. If you did, to exhibit the
problems that you are describing there would be fluid leaking somewhere
around the slave because the pressure would have to go somewhere. So in my
opinion, (its worth what you are paying for it), you still have air in the
system.

The other thing that worked for me once and I can't remember exactly what I
did, involved dismounting the clutch master and holding it upside down and
at diff angles, with the top on of course, and bleeding it at the slave and
otherwise just squeezing the lever quite a bit to make the air move.

Good luck!

Jeremy


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Vfr@xxxxxx
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No kidding. I can see how that would work. I've been fortunate in that I've
never had enough air trapped to have that problem but I'll be sure to try it
if I do.

Jeremy


>From: "Denny Fair"
>To: "Jeremy Boron" ,
>CC:
>Subject: RE: clutch
>Date: Sun, 04 Jun 2006 21:16:55 -0400
>
> One method of bleeding the air that gets trapped (squeezed) into the
>irregular spaces of fittings and machinings is, and you will find this
>COUNTER INTUITIVE but trust me IT WORKS......When you bleed the system
>whether it be brakes or clutch, DON'T QUIT PUMPING THE LEVER! Even when
>you
>crack open the bleeder. Pump using a slow and consistent stroke. As you
>feel it come up or get some resistance crack open the bleeder just enough
>to
>let out some fluid and immediately close it again DON'T STOP PUMPING THE
>LEVER. You may have to repeat this 30 or 40 times and you may pull a
>little
>air in at the bleeder but the fluid that you move further up in the system
>will drag the trapped air toward the bleeder using the surface tension of
>the liquid for traction. At first you may not get much fluid at the
>bleeder
>as the feel of the system comes up the fluid will be more and appear milky
>at the bleeder. That is the larger pockets of trapped air broken down into
>smaller bubbles now suspended in the fluid. Once the clutch or brake lever
>feels near normal now bleed it as you would normally. Pump the lever
>slowly
>in and out. Too quick of a stroke will cause cavitation at the master cyl.
>and that puts air back in the system at the top of the system again.
> I've learned this method on Order Picker fork lifts that have brake
>lines
>that are routed through the mast with other hyd hoses. Some of those
>trapped pockets of air can be measured in feet and not bubbles.
> I've used this method on many different bikes and even had a fellow
>mechanic who couldn't get his front brakes to bleed properly argue that it
>wouldn't work. He finally decided that he had nothing to loose by letting
>me demonstrate my method on his Honda. He's a believer now.
> Remember the whole idea is to get the trapped air up in the system to
>move
>toward the bleeder! Not to compress the bubble just to let it expand again
>after the fluid that compressed it is released. Keep the pressure on and
>the air will come too.
>
>Denny
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: vfr-bounces@xxxxxx [mailto:vfr-bounces@xxxxxx]On Behalf
>Of Jeremy Boron
>Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2006 7:59 PM
>To: nagyp@xxxxxx
>Cc: vfr@xxxxxx
>Subject: clutch
>
>
>Paul, it may be that there is air higher up in the lines that you aren't
>able to push out. A lot of time some of it will get caught near the banjo
>bolt on the clutch master cylinder. The way to get this out is to first,
>COVER ALL FAIRINGS,PLASTIC AND PAINTED PARTS!!!, (bad news if you don't),
>then crack the banjo bolt just enough so that when you squeeze the clutch
>lever fluid, or air, will seep out around it. I had air caught in mine
>there
>once and it wouldn't work because it would compress the air instead of
>pushing out the slave cylinder and applying pressure to the push rod. I
>can't think that you damaged the slave at all. If you did, to exhibit the
>problems that you are describing there would be fluid leaking somewhere
>around the slave because the pressure would have to go somewhere. So in my
>opinion, (its worth what you are paying for it), you still have air in the
>system.
>
>The other thing that worked for me once and I can't remember exactly what I
>did, involved dismounting the clutch master and holding it upside down and
>at diff angles, with the top on of course, and bleeding it at the slave and
>otherwise just squeezing the lever quite a bit to make the air move.
>
>Good luck!
>
>Jeremy
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Vfr mailing list
>Vfr@xxxxxx
>For subscription and delivery options:
>https://lists.cs.wisc.edu/mailman/listinfo/vfr
>
>


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Yup I agree. That was part of my suggestion to help remove air trapped in
odd places.


>From: "Jeff Fitzsimons"
>To: "Jeremy Boron"
>Subject: Re: clutch
>Date: Mon, 5 Jun 2006 10:19:45 -0700
>
>On 6/4/06, Jeremy Boron wrote:
>>Paul, it may be that there is air higher up in the lines that you aren't
>>able to push out. A lot of time some of it will get caught near the banjo
>>bolt on the clutch master cylinder. The way to get this out is to first,
>
>Dunno if it's obvious, but it's been discussed on the Transalp list:
>moving the bars to create a continual upward path for any air bubble
>to rise will help. Moving the bars all the way to the left, with the
>bike on the sidestand, *really* makes the difference when bleeding the
>Transalp's front brake!
>
>--
>Jeff


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You guys crack me up. If you pull the springs it takes 5 more minutes
to replace the friction discs and steel plates. Sure it costs a
couple bucks more but then you don't have to think about it for some
time.

On 9/21/06, Walzer, Carl (.) wrote:
> I don't know the clutch needs to be replaced. Why go through the extra cost
> and trouble of replacing clutch disks if it is just a matter of the springs
> going soft.
>
> I have heard from several knowledgeable sources (one a Honda dealer and
> racer) that the springs get soft given the heat cycling they go through. As
> a maintenance issue on my Hawk GT I raced, I was told to replace springs
> each year ... and the plates will last almost forever (lower HP bike). It
> has worked on a couple bikes that were slipping, and I've even went the
> replace the clutch route once and found everything to be within
> specification ... besides the springs.
>
> It was noted earlier that the Barnett springs will mean a harder clutch
> pull. The Honda springs trade off their ability to hold the disks with a
> little easier clutch pull. So either replace the springs more frequently or
> go to stronger springs, with its firmer clutch pull.
>
> I know I can find better places to spend $100 than replacing something that
> is fine. A half hour experiment to save $100 is worth it to me. That is my
> opinion and experience. Everyone should evaluate their own situation, the
> degree of slipping, whether there are particles in the oil (evidence of
> friction material failing), and go from there.
>
> Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Why go through the trouble to just replace the springs? You know the
> clutch needs to be replaced so why not do it right the first time?
>
> On 9/21/06, Walzer, Carl (.) wrote:
> > Note that the springs usually get weak before the friction materials are
> > done. So unless you've really slipped your clutch a lot, I'd recommend
> > going with new springs first and then seeing how it goes. That has fixed
> a
> > little slipping on a couple bikes.
> >
> > Carl
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: vfr-bounces@xxxxxx [mailto:vfr-bounces@xxxxxx] On Behalf
> Of
> > bob.harmon@xxxxxx
> > Sent: Thursday, September 21, 2006 10:08 AM
> > To: vfr@xxxxxx
> > Subject: Re:Clutch
> >
> > Thanks for the info, sorry for all the re: post I kept getting a return
> from
> > the gateway? The clutch is ok for I will change when it needs it, but it
> > will be the first time. So was valve ajustment at 24,000 miles.
> >
> > 94' VFR750
> >
> > thanks
> > Bob
>


--
Check out my racing site...http://www.chrisburgess.com/
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Picky, picky picky so I left that one out. Once upon a time I had to change
a cluth not two weeks after putting in fresh pricey synthetic. I learned
the bloody thing well up against a wall and didn't spill a drop. Well...
Maybe one or two. :-)

Kevin Glick--kglick@xxxxxx(The Isle O'Manhattan--NYC)
LRRS/CCS EXPERT# 56///US Marshals Risk And Track Safety Management
Crew 94' EX500(Race)//98' VFR800Fi (Sequoia)// "Keep Thine Eye On
The Tach And Thine Ear On The Engine Lest Thy Whirlybits
Seek Communion With The Sun" John 4:50


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doug Scott [mailto:doug@xxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 3:26 PM
> To: kglick@xxxxxx; bob.harmon@xxxxxx; vfr@xxxxxx
> Subject: RE: Clutch
>
> You are going to want to drain and refill the oil as well...
> Actually you
> must refill the oil, it gets dumped out when you pull the
> side cover off.
>
> doug
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: vfr-bounces@xxxxxx
> [mailto:vfr-bounces@xxxxxx] On Behalf Of
> Kevin Glick
> Sent: September 20, 2006 3:03 PM
> To: bob.harmon@xxxxxx; vfr@xxxxxx
> Subject: RE: Clutch
>
> Who said changing clutch was difficult? Changing the
> baskets, particularly
> the inner, is a pain because it requires either an airgun or
> a clutch center
> holder but changing the clutch pack itself is a piece of
> cake. Hell I'll
> scan you the three pages from the shop manual if you want it
> but here it is
> in a nutshell. You might also find this in the archives. I'm
> sure I've
> posted it in the past.
>
> Take your choice I have the 90-93 manual (same process as for
> the 90-97) and
> the 98-2k manual. Almost identical also.
>
> 1. Buy a new cluck cover gasket just in case.
>
> 2. Buy a small bottle of Indianhead Gasket Cement
>
> 3. Buy new frictions plates, steel plates and BARNETT
> springs. The springs
> alone get you 2-4ponies. They also get you a harder clutch pull.
>
> 4. Remove oil dipstick
>
> 5. Remove the right side engine cover (approximately 14 8mm
> bolts) Pick a
> starting point and lay the bolts out in order as you remove
> them. Some are
> longer than others
>
> 6. There now you're looking at the clutch. Remove the five
> spring retaining
> bolts (washers and springs as well) in the center of the
> pressure plate.
> It'll be obvious when you open the thing up.
>
> 7. Remove the pressure plate and note the IT IS KEYED TO THE
> CLUTCH INNER
> BASKET. It may also bring a little tophat looking thing with
> it. Or it may
> leave the tophat and the bearing attached to the activiation
> rod which runs
> through the motor. Again it's obvious just be a bit attentive.
>
> 8. Inspect the pressure plate and make sure tha the surface
> point that comes
> in contact with the disks isn't dished. It should be FLAT all the way
> across. If it's badly dished it'll interferre with
> engagement and wear out
> your new (outtermost) plate very quickly. Order a new one or
> have one on
> hand if you have more than 30k on the bike.
>
> 9. Remove all the disks. Note that the fist disk in is a
> friction and the
> last disk in is a friction. Leave the judder spring (a round
> angled washer
> that sits at the back) and spring seat (another big flat
> washer) unless
> your aftermarket clutch tells you to remove it.
>
> 10. Inspect the groves in the basket(s) for notches that
> would be made by
> the teeth on the ID of the steels plates and the tangs on the
> OD of the
> frictions. If wear is noticeable either replace the
> basket(s) OR work out
> the notches (smooth them a bit) using emmory cloth.
>
> 11. Take your new plates and dip them in a pie dish filled
> with fresh oil.
> NOTE that the inner most friction disk is likely to be
> slightly different in
> size.
>
> 12. Insert disks starting with the above mentioned in number 11 and
> alternate friction, steel, friction, steel. You should end
> with a friction.
>
> 13. Reinstall the pressure plate making sure it keys in and
> sites all the
> way down.
>
> 14. Put in your new springs and then the bolts/washers. Tighten in a
> criss/cross pattern. DON'T over tighten. Manual says 9ft-lbs
>
> 15. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and any
> material from the
> engine cases. Try not to drop any shavings in the motor.
>
> 16. Now here's the gasket trick for those of you who hate
> dealing with torn
> mangled gaskets. This allows you to remove covers without
> tearing gaskets
> and lets you reuse them if you wish (not I'm not going to get
> into that
> debate - it's not a head gasket) You can do this on either
> the motor side or
> cover side your preference. I do it on the motor side since
> I don't expect
> to be splitting cases but one never know's when one may need
> to replace a
> cracked and mangle engine cover. After you've made sure the
> mating surfaces
> are free of leftover bits of the previous gasket. Be careful
> when cleaning
> gasket mating surfaces not to nick the aluminum.
>
> 17. After you've made sure the mating surfaces are free of
> leftover bits of
> the previous gasket. Be careful when cleaning gasket mating
> surfaces not to
> nick the aluminum. Coat the engine gasket mating surface with the
> Indianhead gasket shellack. Let it set up for 5-7 minutes
> and then place
> the gasket on it. There should be dowels in the motor that
> help hold it in
> position. Either way the shellack should be good and tacky by now.
>
> 18. Install the gasket on the motor side (my personal pref)
>
> 19. Let it sit another 5-7 minutes.
>
> 20. Using your finger coat the gasket surface with a bit of
> all purpose
> grease.
>
> 21. Install the cover and tighten the bolts in a criss/cross
> pattern. Sorry
> the manual isn't showing a torque spec. Don't' strip and use handtool
> locktite if you wish.
>
> There you're done. Go ride.
>
> Kevin Glick, CCNA
> Field Engineer
> Chesapeake NetCraftsmen, LLC
> 212.243.4870 H/O/F
> 917.593.1675 Mobile
> 806.403.2453 eFax
> kglick@xxxxxx
> http://www.netcraftsmen.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: vfr-bounces@xxxxxx
> > [mailto:vfr-bounces@xxxxxx] On Behalf Of bob.harmon@xxxxxx
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 1:53 PM
> > To: vfr@xxxxxx
> > Subject: Re: Clutch
> >
> > 32,000 miles total. Shell 100% synthetic Rotella (5-gallons
> > total) in 25,000
> > miles.
> > After reading how complicated changing the clutch is I decided to
> > change the oil to see if if would help, it did. I still had the old
> > Rotella jugs (with old oil to be recycled) and did notice
> that the ASI
> > label was different than the one on the newest jug.
> > I assume they change the formula. I have heard that the
> diesel Rotella
> > will work I am just going to stick to dino oil for now as I
> am getting
> > better gas mileage.
> > I assume I was getting some slippage that I did not notice.
> >
> > --
> > Thanks,
> > Bob
> >
> > -------------- Original message ----------------------
> > From: Mrydr@xxxxxx
> > >
> > > In a message dated 9/20/2006 6:57:10 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> > > bob.harmon@xxxxxx writes:
> > >
> > > I thought I needed a new clutch at 32,000 miles but
> > switched from the new
> > > Rotella back to Honda dino oil. I ran the old Rotella for
> > 25,000 miles. Have
> > > not tried the diesel Rotella.
> > >
> > >
> > > Bob,
> > >
> > > I tried the Shell Syn Rotella for the first time this
> > spring. Everything
> > > seemed fine until after my return from the Dragon and just
> > before WDGAH 10
> > > when, if I opened up the throttle, my clutch would slip.
> > Everything went
> > well
> > > @
> > > WDGAH, no clutch slippage but I didn't whack the
> throttle either.
> > >
> > > Now I'm wondering if I need to change the clutch or if I
> > should switch back
> > > to Mobil 1. I'm up for an oil change soon.
> > >
> > > I currently have 47K+ miles.
> > >
> > > Did your clutch slip using the new (Syn?) Rotella at
> > 32,000miles and is that
> > > why you went back to Honda dino? Has the clutch slipped
> > using the Honda
> > > oil? And does your VFR now have 32,000 + 25,000 =
> > 57,000total miles now?
> > >
> > > TIA for your comments.
> > >
> > > Fred in CT w/ Ver. 96 and wondering if clutch slip is from
> > the Syn Rotella?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Attached Message
> > From: Mrydr@xxxxxx [ Save Address ]
> > To: bob.harmon@xxxxxx
> > Subject: Re: Time for a New Clutch? / Did Your
> > Clutch Slip w/ Rotella?
> > Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2006 13:13:09 +0000
> >
> > In a message dated 9/20/2006 6:57:10 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> > bob.harmon@xxxxxx writes:
> >
> > I thought I needed a new clutch at 32,000 miles but
> switched from
> > the new Rotella back to Honda dino oil. I ran the old Rotella for
> > 25,000 miles. Have not tried the diesel Rotella.
> >
> > Bob,
> >
> > I tried the Shell Syn Rotella for the first time this spring.
> > Everything seemed fine until after my return from the
> Dragon and just
> > before WDGAH 10 when, if I opened up the throttle, my clutch would
> > slip. Everything went well @ WDGAH, no clutch slippage but
> I didn't
> > whack the throttle either.
> >
> > Now I'm wondering if I need to change the clutch or if I
> should switch
> > back to Mobil 1. I'm up for an oil change soon.
> >
> > I currently have 47K+ miles.
> >
> > Did your clutch slip using the new (Syn?) Rotella at
> 32,000miles and
> > is that why you went back to Honda dino? Has the clutch
> slipped using
> > the Honda oil? And does your VFR now have 32,000 + 25,000 =
> > 57,000total miles now?
> >
> > TIA for your comments.
> >
> > Fred in CT w/ Ver. 96 and wondering if clutch slip is from the Syn
> > Rotella?
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > vfr mailing list
> > vfr@xxxxxx
> > For subscription and delivery options:
> > https://lists.cs.wisc.edu/mailman/listinfo/vfr
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> vfr mailing list
> vfr@xxxxxx
> For subscription and delivery options:
> https://lists.cs.wisc.edu/mailman/listinfo/vfr
>
>
>

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Yeah but I really do need to proof read a bit more. Sorry for the messups
folks I try to be spot on.

Kev
P.S. Carl, good to know you're still around.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Walzer, Carl (.) [mailto:CWALZER@xxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2006 3:45 PM
> To: 'doug@xxxxxx'; kglick@xxxxxx;
> bob.harmon@xxxxxx; vfr@xxxxxx
> Subject: RE: Clutch
>
> When needed (like at the track or the side of the road) this
> can all be done
> without touching the oil, just be a little more careful if you need to
> scrape the gasket. Properly lubed like Kevin noted, and the
> cover will come
> off without hurting the gasket. It is amazing how quick one
> can be replaced
> between race sessions.
>
> Kevin,
> Thanks for the good write up.
>
> Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> You are going to want to drain and refill the oil as well...
> Actually you
> must refill the oil, it gets dumped out when you pull the
> side cover off.
>
> doug
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: vfr-bounces@xxxxxx
> [mailto:vfr-bounces@xxxxxx] On Behalf Of
> Kevin Glick
> Sent: September 20, 2006 3:03 PM
> To: bob.harmon@xxxxxx; vfr@xxxxxx
> Subject: RE: Clutch
>
> Who said changing clutch was difficult? Changing the
> baskets, particularly
> the inner, is a pain because it requires either an airgun or
> a clutch center
> holder but changing the clutch pack itself is a piece of
> cake. Hell I'll
> scan you the three pages from the shop manual if you want it
> but here it is
> in a nutshell. You might also find this in the archives. I'm
> sure I've
> posted it in the past.
>
> Take your choice I have the 90-93 manual (same process as for
> the 90-97) and
> the 98-2k manual. Almost identical also.
>
> 1. Buy a new cluck cover gasket just in case.
>
> 2. Buy a small bottle of Indianhead Gasket Cement
>
> 3. Buy new frictions plates, steel plates and BARNETT
> springs. The springs
> alone get you 2-4ponies. They also get you a harder clutch pull.
>
> 4. Remove oil dipstick
>
> 5. Remove the right side engine cover (approximately 14 8mm
> bolts) Pick a
> starting point and lay the bolts out in order as you remove
> them. Some are
> longer than others
>
> 6. There now you're looking at the clutch. Remove the five
> spring retaining
> bolts (washers and springs as well) in the center of the
> pressure plate.
> It'll be obvious when you open the thing up.
>
> 7. Remove the pressure plate and note the IT IS KEYED TO THE
> CLUTCH INNER
> BASKET. It may also bring a little tophat looking thing with
> it. Or it may
> leave the tophat and the bearing attached to the activiation
> rod which runs
> through the motor. Again it's obvious just be a bit attentive.
>
> 8. Inspect the pressure plate and make sure tha the surface
> point that comes
> in contact with the disks isn't dished. It should be FLAT all the way
> across. If it's badly dished it'll interferre with
> engagement and wear out
> your new (outtermost) plate very quickly. Order a new one or
> have one on
> hand if you have more than 30k on the bike.
>
> 9. Remove all the disks. Note that the fist disk in is a
> friction and the
> last disk in is a friction. Leave the judder spring (a round
> angled washer
> that sits at the back) and spring seat (another big flat
> washer) unless
> your aftermarket clutch tells you to remove it.
>
> 10. Inspect the groves in the basket(s) for notches that
> would be made by
> the teeth on the ID of the steels plates and the tangs on the
> OD of the
> frictions. If wear is noticeable either replace the
> basket(s) OR work out
> the notches (smooth them a bit) using emmory cloth.
>
> 11. Take your new plates and dip them in a pie dish filled
> with fresh oil.
> NOTE that the inner most friction disk is likely to be
> slightly different in
> size.
>
> 12. Insert disks starting with the above mentioned in number 11 and
> alternate friction, steel, friction, steel. You should end
> with a friction.
>
> 13. Reinstall the pressure plate making sure it keys in and
> sites all the
> way down.
>
> 14. Put in your new springs and then the bolts/washers. Tighten in a
> criss/cross pattern. DON'T over tighten. Manual says 9ft-lbs
>
> 15. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and any
> material from the
> engine cases. Try not to drop any shavings in the motor.
>
> 16. Now here's the gasket trick for those of you who hate
> dealing with torn
> mangled gaskets. This allows you to remove covers without
> tearing gaskets
> and lets you reuse them if you wish (not I'm not going to get
> into that
> debate - it's not a head gasket) You can do this on either
> the motor side or
> cover side your preference. I do it on the motor side since
> I don't expect
> to be splitting cases but one never know's when one may need
> to replace a
> cracked and mangle engine cover. After you've made sure the
> mating surfaces
> are free of leftover bits of the previous gasket. Be careful
> when cleaning
> gasket mating surfaces not to nick the aluminum.
>
> 17. After you've made sure the mating surfaces are free of
> leftover bits of
> the previous gasket. Be careful when cleaning gasket mating
> surfaces not to
> nick the aluminum. Coat the engine gasket mating surface with the
> Indianhead gasket shellack. Let it set up for 5-7 minutes
> and then place
> the gasket on it. There should be dowels in the motor that
> help hold it in
> position. Either way the shellack should be good and tacky by now.
>
> 18. Install the gasket on the motor side (my personal pref)
>
> 19. Let it sit another 5-7 minutes.
>
> 20. Using your finger coat the gasket surface with a bit of
> all purpose
> grease.
>
> 21. Install the cover and tighten the bolts in a criss/cross
> pattern. Sorry
> the manual isn't showing a torque spec. Don't' strip and use handtool
> locktite if you wish.
>
> There you're done. Go ride.
>
> Kevin Glick, CCNA
> Field Engineer
> Chesapeake NetCraftsmen, LLC
> 212.243.4870 H/O/F
> 917.593.1675 Mobile
> 806.403.2453 eFax
> kglick@xxxxxx
> http://www.netcraftsmen.net
>

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