what did you do to your vfr today?

Good to hear and see you again AM!

Got the rear Metzler in yesterday and took it over to Cycle Gear with my old PR4 & rim. Young manager said how did you wear your tire like that? I said I don't go in straight lines very often!

Metzler seems decent, just put 50 miles on it to scrub it in.

 

What a fantastic Idea. Doubt our leaders will have that foresight here in Oz.

 

A wet ride

 

I replaced the front and rear CCTs on my 6 Gen. Not a really difficult job but one that does require patience. Although taking off the throttle bodies is called out in the manual, I found that just removing the air box made access pretty easy. There is a coolant hose that goes to the wax unit I believe and that can be slightly in the way. I was able to work around that and removing/installing wasn't that difficult. The irony, getting the rear CCT is a snap once you remove the heat shield, however getting to the nuts that hold the shield to the rear brake master cylinder can be a HUGE PITA. Trying to get these nuts bolts back in and tightened actually took longer that the replace task of both CCTs! One note for those who might consider re-using the crush washers. The top of the CCT has a cross hatch cutout and the crush washer fills in when tightened, so if you plan to reuse them be cognizant of that. There is oil that circulates through the CCT and when removing the bolt, oil does leak out of the hole on the rear CCT, so when reusing the crush washer, see how deformed it is as if it does not make a poper seal, you could leak oil from the top of CCT.

Removal of the heat shield and the rear set mount gives you clear and easy access to the rear CCT.




Top view of the front CCT with the air box still in place. Although you might be able to remove and replace with the air box still there, I removed it just to lessen any frustration.





This is what the crush washer looked like when it was removed.


This is where the impression gets made from. Note that the locking tool is installed in the top of the CCT in this pic, it needs to be removed prior to final installation.

 

Watched a young guy ride off with it.
He had a bit of a grin on his face after a brief test ride.
Pocketed the cash.
Sad to see it go after so long, almost 19 years.
But makes room for something newer.

 

I did a wheelie.
I was trying to do a fast take off from a stoplight.

I'm not used to it. I've never intentionally wheelied a bike before and this was the highest it's ever gone.

 

I moved my vfr around in the garage, thinking to myself damn I have it good with this one.

 

I fitted the Honda bar risers to my 2014, a 5min job nearly turned into an 1hr when I dropped one of the plastic caps down under the tank. Fortunately I was able to fish it out. Anyone know what the correct torque is for the bar bolts?

 

Probably not German torque, Gudentight.

 

24 lb-ft

 

Thanks, is that the Honda Spec? I did them to 18lb-ft this morning before ride to work which is what Heli bars qte for their risers. The height difference is quite noticeable at first and a definite improvement. Actually found it also made it easier when pushing the bike around, or maybe it was the banana on my muesli this morning

 

Did a little searching at Lunchtime and found a copy of the Honda Install Guide. Correct Torque is 16lb-ft. I think 18 should suffice.
http://powersports.honda.com/documentum/MW01/08R70-MJM-D10.pdf

 

Gave it a lift!

20171109_200349 by RllwJoe posted Nov 9, 2017 at 10:46 PM

See my new post http://vfrworld.com/threads/made-my-own-lift.54447/

 

Bummer can’t see pics in Tapatalk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Picked up a set of soft bags, the side bags never been mounted and the tail only a few times and looks new. Before heading home I snapped this one (the tail bag is in the Givi case)

 

RE: Torque, I initially got the 24 lb-ft from the list in the front of the manual, after seeing other comments I double checked:

 

Found something else to fix today; on a 300km bumpy road ride I noticed the instruments/mirrors/top fairing jiggling a bit more than usual. Turns out the two bolts holding the sub-frame to the steering head had loosened over the last 100000km so the frame was wiggling about. I can tell you that these are not easy bolts to access at the roadside but I managed enough with the stock tools, and finished the job properly at home. It did make me wonder what other bolts may back off and I am resolved to undertaking a full chassis/engine bolt check next time the bike is naked.

 

I finally started fixing my bike up. I've moved recently and I've been busy unpacking, organizing my life.

I forgot to get pictures of what it looked like, but my front upper fairing stay was bent down pretty far in the left side. Two of the three connectors on the back of my guage cluster are broken. I'm going to try gluing them back in place.
As far as the fairing stay goes, I took a propane torch to it and got the bend glowing red and slowly bent it back into place. I have some fine tuning to do tomorrow. It's going to be nice to get it rideable again. After I finish the upper subframe, I'll move onto the rear subframe.

 

I took her out for one of her last rides this season! 6o degrees F. Rode her for 6o miles and filled the tank with non ethanol and time will tell. Snow should be here soon in Utah. Put her on the center stand and plan on starting her up every week to just say hello or if the temp is above 50 take her out!